Controlling Stinging Nettle: Getting Rid Of Stinging Nettle Weeds

Most of us have heard or know of stinging nettle. It is common in yards and can become quite the nuisance. But for those unsure of what it is or how to get rid of it, information about stinging nettle and its control is especially important.

What is Stinging Nettle?

Stinging nettle is a member of the large family Urticaceae and is a decidedly unpleasant herbaceous perennial. As the name implies, stinging nettle has the capacity to irritate and blister when it comes into contact with skin. The most common variety (Urtica dioica procera) is native to North America, being prolific in California and other areas of the western United States, and is referred to by a number of common names for its two most widespread subspecies.

Stinging nettle thrives in damp, nutrient rich soils and can be found anywhere from pastures, orchards, overgrown yards, roadsides, stream banks, ditches and even at the edges of fields or wooded lots in partial shade. Stinging nettle is less likely to be found in the desert, elevations over 9,800 feet (3,000 m.) and in areas of salinity.

Information About Stinging Nettle

Controlling stinging nettle is a virtuous pursuit, due to its painful effect on human skin. The leaves and stems of stinging nettles are finely covered with thin bristles that lodge in the offended skin, leaving red patches that itch and burn — sometimes for up to 12 hours. These hairs have an internal structure much like a tiny hypodermic needle which plunges neurotransmitter chemicals, such as acetylcholine and histamine, under the skin, causing the reaction known as ‘irritant dermatitis.’

A full sized stinging nettle plant may be 3-10 feet (0.9-3 m.) tall, on occasion even reaching up to 20 feet (6 m.) in height. It has an angular stem branching outwards from the base. Both the stem and leaf surface have non-stinging and stinging hairs. This perennial weed blooms from March to September with insignificant whitish green flowers at the base of the leaf stalks and fruit that is tiny and egg shaped.

How to Kill Stinging Nettle Plants

Controlling stinging nettle can be a lesson in futility, as the plant is not only a prolific grower, but also springs from underground rhizomes and is easily propagated via wind-dispersed seeds. Tilling or cultivating an area that is heavily populated may spread the rhizomes, increasing the colony instead of getting rid of stinging nettle. Again, stinging nettle control is difficult, as these underground horizontal root stems can spread 5 feet (1.5 m.) or more in a season, continually re-growing from the rhizomes, even when broken apart.

So, you may wonder how to kill stinging nettle plants then? Stinging nettle may be removed by hand, taking care to protect the skin with gloves and other appropriate attire. Be sure to remove the underground rhizomes completely or the weed will continue to come back. Close mowing or “weed whacking” can retard growth as well.

Otherwise, when controlling stinging nettle, it may be necessary to resort to chemical herbicides such as isoxaben, oxadiazon, and oxyfluorfen, which are only available to licensed pesticide applicators.

Vitax SBK brushwood killer is a strong weedkiller that eliminates weeds without harming the surrounding grass or vegetation. It is a leading product with over 100 five-star reviews on Amazon.co.uk. It is available in 125 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml, and 1-litre sizes.

How it works

Vitax SBK is apt for killing weeds such as brambles, bamboo, thistles, woody weeds, nettles, ivy, dock, unwanted saplings, and tree stumps. It is a hormone-type herbicide and it imitates plant hormones causing distorted plant growth when sprayed onto weeds. Furthermore, it is a selective herbicide that targets broad-leaved weeds without causing damage to desired plants.

Hormone weedkillers use a translocation and foliar acting mechanism that work through the leaves of the weed to reach down into the plant’s roots.

They also have a residual effect which means the spray lingers around in the soil for a couple of weeks.

While most weedkillers use glyphosate as their active ingredient, Vitax SBK utilises a special formulation containing triclopyr. Triclopyr is an organic substance in the pyridine classification.

Triclopyr biodegrades into the soil with a half-life of 60 days. However, triclopyr will remain active in dead vegetation for about 3 months.

Suggested Usage

The best time to apply SBK brushwood killer on tough weeds is between spring and autumn when the weeds are actively growing. The best time to use on woody weeds is between summer and autumn when the soil is moist. Tree stumps best respond to treatment between autumn and winter when the sap is rising.

Also, you’ll want to plan ahead and use this weedkiller 6 weeks before re-planting or sowing.

Avoid using in unfavourable weather conditions including drought, frost, and rain. Furthermore, do not use during windy weather conditions because it increases the chances for the spray to drift.

Do not use SBK brushwood killer on newly-turfed or seeded lawns.

Instructions:
  1. Shake the bottle thoroughly
  2. Get a garden sprayer and mix 30 millilitres of weed killer with 1.5 litres of water and treat up to 10 square metres.
  3. Adjust the nozzle setting to coarse to prevent drift onto surrounding plants.
  4. Spray onto affected areas.

Safety Precautions

Follow these precautions to ensure your safety while using Vitax SBK:

  • Do not use to control aquatic weeds as solution may be harmful to marine life
  • Wear appropriate safety equipment such as goggles, gloves, face mask, and overalls.
  • Do not let mixture run-off into streams, ponds, or the drainage system
  • Children and pets should be excluded from the area until the spray is dry.

For more information on safety, refer to the MSDS sheet supplied with your purchase.

Verdict

Vitax was established in the late 1800’s They have a couple of production and distribution centres in the United Kingdom that manufacture the SBK brushwood killer. Overall, this triclopyr-based herbicide is great if you are looking for a way to clean up your lawn without hurting your grass.

Pros

  • Works to kill tree stumps and stubborn weeds
  • Does not harm grass
  • Affordable pricing

Cons

  • Some buyers have found it to be less effective on ivy

For a similar product check out the Westland Resolva herbicide.

If you found this review helpful, help us by sharing it through your favourite social media website or leave a comment below.

SBK Brushwood Killer 1L

SBK Brushwood Killer (1L – 340sqm) – Mapp No. 12711

Active Ingredient: Triclopyr
SBK Brushwood Killer is a tough weed killer that has become the household brand for the effective control of brambles, thistles, nettles, dock, woody weeds and unwanted saplings. SBK Brushwood Killer can also be used to kill off persistent tree stumps.
SBK is formulated to kill weeds without harming grass and can therefore be used safely in turfed areas. It is also ideal for treating neglected, non-crop areas.
SBK Brushwood Killer application usage and times:

  • Tough Weeds and Hardwood Saplings: May – October
  • Woody weeds: June – August
  • Tree stumps: Autumn/Winter

padding: 0px 0px 0px 0px;”>How To Use:
Shake well before use.
Hold the bottle upright, loosen cap, and gently squeeze bottle to fill the dose chamber to the required level. Remove cap and empty contents into water in the watering can or sprayer mixing thoroughly. Repeat as required.
Nettles, Brambles and ‘Tough Weeds’: by WATERING CAN with fine rose, mix 25ml in 5 litres of water and apply evenly over 8.5m² (10 sq yards). Or by SPRAYER mix 25ml in 1.25 litres of water and apply evenly over 8.5m² (10 sq yards). Adjust sprayer nozzle to a coarse setting to avoid production of a fine spray that can drift onto neighbouring plants.
Woody Weeds and Hardwood Saplings: by SPRAYER mix 25ml in 1.25 litres of water and apply evenly covering leaves, branches and stems.
Tree Stumps: mix equal volumes of product and water, painting or spraying all surfaces of cut stumps and bark down to soil level.
Children and pets can be allowed on to treated areas after spray has dried
Safety Instructions:
Keep Off Skin.
Wash Off Splashes Immediately.
Do Not Breathe Spray.
Pack Size: 1 Litre – Treats up to 340m²
Apply according to instruction on the pack depending on the weeds/saplings/stumps to be treated. Allow at least six weeks between applications and re-planting.
For further information regarding SBK Brushwood Killer 1L, please contact a member of our technical sales team on 01902 440250

SBK Brushwood Killer is specifically designed to target woody weeds, saplings and broad-leaved weeds in areas of grassland, non-crop areas and home gardens. Containing 48 g/L of triclopyr, this soluble concentrate foliar acting herbicide has been specially formulated to tackle the roots of tough weeds to prevent re-growth whilst also being completely safe on grass. As well as treating weeds such as nettles, docks, thistles and brambles, SBK Brushwood Killer can also be used to treat wood stumps in the autumn and winter.

How To Use:

– Apply when soil is moist and weeds are actively growing.

– When treating tree stumps, avoid application during April, May or June when sap is rising.

– Once treated, a repeat treatment can be applied after six weeks.

– Allow six weeks between application and re-planting.

– SBK Brushwood Killer should not be applied during drought or in freezing conditions.

– Dilute as per product instructions and keep away from cultivated plants.

Key Benefits:

– Designed to specifically target woody weeds, saplings and broad-leaved weeds such as nettles, docks and thistles.

– Foliar acting herbicide that kills the root of the weed preventing re-growth.

– Uses triclopyr as the active ingredient- safe for grass and tough on weeds!

– Approved for use in regular home gardens.

– Suitable for use in a watering can or sprayer.

– Can be used as cut stump treatment.

Our Recommendation:

– Always read the product label before use.

– Keep grazing animals off treated areas until any poisonous weeds (such as ragwort) have died or become unpalatable.

– Save money and time and mix with Blue Dye to ensure no areas are missed or overdosed.

– When using with a sprayer adjust the nozzle to a coarse setting to avoid production of a fine spray that can drift onto neighbouring plants.

– Always wear protective clothing, such as Chemical Resistant Gloves, when handling SBK Brushwood Killer.

Garden Law Discussion

Hi
I’m not sure where I stand with this so I thought this board may be able to help.
I threw some mown grass over the fence today which isn’t actually as bad as it sounds as it is a hilly area with a steep(ish) ditch that juts up against my fence. The ditch is very overgrown with thick thorned weeds which come over, under and through my fence and when the weather is nice smothers everything in its path including my partners bike that we have just had to cut out!
There is a house set a bit back on higher land than our house. The couple who I have never seen before (!) came out today very angry that we had thrown the grass over. I honestly did not realise that it was a part of the garden as there is a hill before it that children play on and as i said previously it is very unkempt but their actual garden is not. Now that I know this I will not do it in the future but what I would like to know is what rights do I have to ask them to do something about the weeds that intrude on my garden and actually damage the fence. I would love to get rid of the weeds as they grow incredibly fast and are very thorny when children & my dog go near the fence & up the side of my house. Sorry to go on so much.

How to Kill, Clear and Control Bramble (Blackberry bush)

The two methods I use to clear brambles.

  1. Using a systematic weed killer that kills the whole bush including the roots, especially useful when the bramble is growing up through cracks in concrete and brickwork.
  2. Digging out the bramble roots. This method works for small areas, closely planted borders and for organic gardeners.

1 Cutting the blackberry bush back and treating with Weed-killer to kill the root.

Depending on the herbicide you plan to use it should be applied in the growing season, from spring until autumn, the best and cheapest chemical weed-killer for treating bramble is glyphosate, read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

As I have described below, cut back all stems and runners to about 6 inches of the root, and clear it away and bag it to rot down or if you are clearing a large area of bramble burn it on site.

Then apply a suitable Glyphosate based weed-killer to the freshly-cut ends of the stems, thoroughly wetting them to ground level.

Glyposate based weed- killers are systemic, being taken down to the roots, killing the whole plant including the root system and is deactivated by contact with the soil.

If you have scruffy neighbours You will almost certainly have to repeat this process and at the very least keep an eye out for new growth and pull them up as soon as you see them.

2 Cutting the bramble bush back to get at and dig out the roots.

First cut back the Bramble stems to about 6″ high, this makes it easier to get to the roots. A Strimmers will save time but you will need a sharp saw for thicker stems.

Next dig out the bramble stump and the roots. It is really important to remove all of the root system, brambles will regenerate from well below soil level. Realistically its almost impossible to remove every bit of root, so you will need to keep an eye out for new growth and pull it up . Bramble will continue to produce new growth for ages and grows fast.

Correct Disposal of thorny bramble growth and roots is key, leaving it in a pile in a corner of the garden will just create another Bramble bush problem, because it sends out new roots wherever it touches soil. If it is just a bush or two, cut it into small pieces and rot it down in a plastic bin bag. When I’m clearing a large area I use a shredder and bag it to rot down, or preferably burn it.

How do I stop my neighbour’s overgrown garden invading mine?

My neighbour will not allow me to erect a block wall between our properties. The wall is standard between many of the houses in our estate so it is in keeping with the surroundings. His “garden” is overgrown and weeds and briars are coming through the dilapidated 25-year-old fence. I originally asked him to split the cost and he refused. Then I offered to pay for it completely and he refused again. I am at my wits’ end. What options do I have?

The situation you describe, in which an inconsiderate property owner permits hedges, briars and weeds, etc to affect adjoining properties is the cause of much upset and annoyance to neighbours. You have two options, neither ideal, but the alternative is to do nothing.

The first is to make a case for obtaining a Works Order from the courts under the provisions of the Land and Conveyancing Law Reform Act 2009, sections 43-47, which provides for carrying out necessary work, including maintenance or replacement, on boundaries.

Information such as photographs, measurements and dates, if known, of your neighbour’s refusals, would be required. The Act provides for a wide interpretation of boundary related situations. You should consult your solicitor about this process.

The second option is to remove all growth extending to your side of the fence, which I presume is accepted as a party fence, and is therefore positioned on the legal boundary. You then construct the wall as close as possible to the boundary line without disturbing the existing fence, as any significant interference with a party fence requires the consent of the other party.

While you would be effectively conceding a marginal strip of ground, the wall would be built on your property and therefore be in your ownership. You do not need your neighbour’s consent to construct a wall on your property.

You may need the assistance of a building surveyor or engineer to design a foundation and wall that maximises your space while avoiding encroachment at foundation level. Wall height limits are subject to planning regulations, generally 2m (rear garden), and 1.2m (front garden).

The latter option may prove to be more stress free. The outcome of the first option may not be as desired. While the Act provides for the situation described, you may be conditioned to construct a fence similar to the existing fence.

Irrespective of what action you decide on, you should first record the existing situation by taking measurements and photographs. These should indicate the extent of the growth in the context of the existing fence and other permanent features for future reference.

Patrick Shine is a chartered geomatics surveyor, a chartered engineer and a member of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland, scsi.ie

Some years ago my neighbour planted two acacia dealbata trees just behind the boundary fence separating our gardens to afford his family some privacy. Unfortunately the roots of the trees appear to be quite shallow and have uprooted the slabs of my patio. I do plan to contact my neighbour to try and resolve the matter amicably. However, I would like to know what alternative avenues I could pursue in the event that he is not amenable to addressing the situation. I am concerned about how far the trees’ root systems could extend into my garden as there are only about five metres between the boundary fence and my house. Your guidance on this matter would be much appreciated.

It does not appear, from your question, that there is a particular issue with the boundary save for the fact that the roots of the tree may have encroached and now exist within your particular plot of ground.

Also, it is not clear if the tree, as planted, is situated on your neighbour’s property or that of another that neither of you own. So to find a suitable solution, it is likely that you will require additional professional input, not limited to that of a surveyor.

A geomatics surveyor will assist you by recording all of the spatial characteristics with accuracy and precision; however, underground this becomes increasingly complex and often more restricted. It is difficult to trace and record tree roots precisely as they may be small and are often complexly interwoven.

A measured survey of the property is useful as a true representation of how the property physically presented prior to any work being carried out. It may also assist with quantifying areas, distances or volumes at a later stage should you need to assign costings etc.

An arboricultural consultant is perhaps one of the best starting points and they may use a measured survey to assist in their reporting. Typically they are in a position to issue reports on the condition of the trees and may recommend tree work where it is required. They are likely to know if the roots are the cause of the disturbance and how best to approach the matter afterwards.

While trees under and above ground are treated somewhat similarly, roots are undeniably a little more complex as they are concealed, anchor the tree and may spread extensively. Under no circumstances should you damage the tree and/or render it unstable in any way.

It is wise to have a building surveyor take a look at your property too, to establish that there is no structural damage to your property. If there is, they will be best placed to advise on the appropriate steps thereafter.

Peaceful living is something most people wish for and most good neighbourly relationships strive to this end. An informal chat with your neighbour is the best way forward and is an excellent way to see if you can find common ground on the issue.

Perhaps jointly appointing the particular professionals would be the best option for you both – that way any agreements made will be based on informed choices. It is important that you can live side by side while both securing a satisfactory outcome.

Sarah Sherlock is a member of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland

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Once you’ve cut back most of the top growth (as above) apply a strong weedkiller containing glyphosate, such as Growing Success Bramble Killer Ultra, Scotts Tumbleweed or Doff Maxi Strength Glyphosate Weed Killer. Glyphosate is a systemic weedkiller that will travel through the plant to kill it at the roots. Then apply a suitable Glyphosate based weed-killer to the freshly-cut ends of the stems, thoroughly wetting them to ground level. Glyposate based weed- killers are systemic, being taken down to the roots, killing the whole plant including the root system and is deactivated by contact with the soil.

Brambles can become a problem where seedlings are allowed to take root, It does not kill grass, though some damage to lawns and fine turf may occur.

Typically the older the bush the larger the root system and this is where the brambles heart lives, to kill it forever you need to get rid of the roots & the stump.

Now, here’s the useful thing to know about bramble roots: they don’t the leaf, works its way down the stem to the root, then kills the root. Glyphosate weed killers are very effective and quite affordable, making them a great choice for killing most bramble growths. They kill the root and growth of a. Getting rid of brambles and keeping them at bay is easier than you might think – find out how in Quick Tips How do I kill brambles in hedge?.

It was full of 8 year old brambles which the allotment committee have cut back and used roundup to kill them. The roots, of course, are still in. bramble roots are not the easiest blighters to remove and they don’t weed kill that easily either – brush cutting will weaken them – and putting. Achieving bramble control can be done fairly quickly and simply. with a few sets of new, green leaves then apply a herbicide to kill it down to the roots.

6 Jun – 1 min – Uploaded by Roundup Weed Killer Cut back your brambles near the base, and apply Roundup Gel to any right down to the root.

2 Nov – 2 min – Uploaded by Roundup Weed Killer See gardening expert Phil McCann tackle a problematic bramble with the has been. 6 Jun – 50 sec – Uploaded by Roundup Weed Killer Are brambles invading their way into your garden up against the walls? and the glyphosate. I’ve dug out tonnes of roots over time from all the big plants and now it’s got to the point where I’m ready to think about turf or seeding. Trouble is that there are.

It’s hard to control brambles organically but brambles can be controlled I would do is get out the fork and dig over the plot, removing every bramble root I can find. weed ‘n’ feed, which will effectively kill off anything but grass that you plant. Learn how to get rid of woody brush and vines, such as berry brambles and poison Some herbicides can help temporarily, but they work by killing only the plant some can go down more than 6 feet.1 Poison ivy roots seldom go below The allotment secretary has offered to spray it with weedkiller when the shoots come through, to kill all the roots. I wish to grow organically, and do not want the.

Hideous painful thorny bramble bushes and ivy have kind of swamped it at the . I killed mine by spraying them with Roundup it kills the roots. How to Kill Bindweed, Brambles and Other Invasive Weeds You may also find that what you thought was the root turns out to be yet another. Now I know that brambles grow in and out of the ground, their root . Apparently you can kill a whole big patch of nettles like that because they.

The owner died, his widow stayed on and brambles took over. When using a thick mulch of compost, depending what weed roots are currently there, It is so much quicker than hand weeding, often killing hundreds of potential weeds in a.

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