The active ingredient works in two ways. Firstly its a contact pest killer that quickly eliminates the aphids and caterpillars that are sprayed. Secondly it also works systemically – going into the plants leaves and moving in the sap stream to protect the whole plant for weeks to come. This means BugClear Ultra Gun kills the pests that are hiding away from the spray or those such as scale insects and mealy bugs that have a protective covering. One simple spray of plants growing indoors or outdoors will effectively kill most common pests – just spray the plant thoroughly and BugClear Ultra Gun makes it clean for up to 3 weeks. Spray at the first sight of insects or symptoms of their presence. It may be necessary to repeat a spray treatment 14 days after the first application on houseplants and ornamental garden plants. For the listed edible crop, a repeat spray treatment should be carried out after 10 days. A convenient ready to use insecticide spray that gives fast-acting contact and long-lasting systemic control of many pests including aphids, whitefly, red spider mite, caterpillars, lily beetle, scale insects and mealy bugs. It will kill existing pest infestations and protect ornamental plants and listed edible crops against new bug attack. Outdoors, BugClear Ultra can be used from April to September – but indoors on houseplants it can be used all year round.
- How to keep your garden as pest-free as possible
- SB Plant Invigorator 500ml Ready To Use
- SB Plant Invigorator – 500ml (Concentrate)
- DOES BEE SPRAY GET RID OF BEES?
- Bee spray by nest type
- Be very careful with bee spray
- How Dangerous Are Bees and Why Should We Repel Them?
- Know Your Bees
- Bees vs. Wasps
- How to Get Rid of Bees Infestations
- How to Get Rid of Bees Naturally
- Professional Bee Removal
- Additional Resources for Bee Removal
- FAQs Regarding Getting Rid of Bees
- What is the Best Insecticide for Carpenter Bees?
- Best insecticide for Preventing Carpenter Bees
- Best Insecticide After Carpenter Bee Infestation
How to keep your garden as pest-free as possible
I quizzed my local mole catcher, Andrew, for tips. He uses Talpex traps (a type of claw trap, £8; ppcsupplies.cop.uk 01386 552545) but says you must insert it in the run, between two hills, and then exclude all light from the trap (perhaps put a board on top).
He uses ”soiled-up” latex gloves so they cannot smell him. A new SuperCat trap from Swissinno solutions is coming out next year and I await it with bated breath.
Slugs and snails are the big beasts this month. Although I use the ferric phosphate granules (approved for organic use) with great success, my colleague Pippa Greenwood, the guru of organic pest control, prefers other methods.
She points out that for underground crops, notably potatoes, you need additional strategies and her favourite is biological control (such as Nemaslug; available from nemasysinfo.co.uk.
However, the soil needs to be warm for this to work, so you may need extra backup for March. For this, Pippa uses crushed oyster shells (you can also mix them with your chicken feed to strengthen their shells).
She gets them from her local country store, but many pet shops will stock them. Copper rings, pictured above, or a painted-on copper coating in the form of Copperbed copperbed.co.uk works, too.
My main contention, though, is that at the end of the season, the crop leaves flop over beyond the treated container or ring and so slugs and snails glide in on the foliage.
Aphids are on the march too. They fly in and feed on any soft new growth, whether the young leaves of fruit trees or succulent, early lettuce.
On Gardeners’ Question Time we are always being asked in midsummer what caused the puckering up of leaves, as by then the culprit has gone. Watch out for them now.
Pippa and I use soft soap or plant oils for this (unless its feasible to squish them smartly between thumb and forefinger).
Pre-prepared ones are readily available, or you can make your own. The old boys used to use dilute Fairy Liquid successfully, but you must dilute it correctly or it kills more than you want to!
Because the legislation is changing rapidly, new organic products are popping up everywhere.
Many commercial growers are enamoured with SB Plant Invigorator, an environmentally friendly pesticide, fungicide and growth stimulant in one (see sbproducts.co.uk.
Spray it weekly, and the main range of mini-pests – including red spider but excluding the cabbage white butterfly – are successfully sorted.
This month, I will sow French marigolds in my greenhouse. This is one of the companion plants that works for me.
It sorts out the whitefly on my tomatoes (as long as I keep deadheading to keep the plants in flower) better than anything else.
I will also sow a few colourful drills of the wild-looking Pictorial Meadows annual mixes pictorialmeadows.co.uk among my veg.
They look good, but also bring in extra portions of hoverflies, lacewings, ground beetles and the like to prey on pests. The scent and colour will confuse and deflect them hopefully too.
April is the month of carrot root fly. In the early Eighties, Dr T H Coaker at Cambridge University researched which companion planting strategies worked.
He found many old wives’ tales useless, but planting four rows of onions either side of your carrot row did help as long as the onions were swelling and growing.
If cow parsley, another host, was around, the number of flies could swell rapidly.
There are many methods of control, including the Nemasys Grow Your Own, which contains a blend of nematodes to combat about 11 pests, including carrot root fly. I find raised beds the best bet.
The fly keeps close to the ground so any container 450mm (or so) high is off their radar. Carrot fly is frequently the cause of parsley becoming sickly too.
Vine weevil, which attacks strawberries as well as many ornamentals, is on the attack now.
Pippa Greenwood swears by the biological control Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer, provided plants are in pots or growing in light soil.
But in heavy soils, it is not an option. Here, rolling up corrugated cardboard into a mini tube entices the adults to crawl in.
In early evening, collect and destroy the adults harbouring within. They are sneaky, though, and can pretend to be dead when they are alive, but not kicking.
With tomatoes, aubergines and cucumbers filling the greenhouse, the pest levels of glasshouse red spider and whitefly can start to rise to epic levels.
Bifenthrin was a great chemical tool for red spider, but is being withdrawn at the end of May (gardeners can use it this summer if they buy supplies now).
The spider is tiny and it sneaks in and builds up before you notice the mottling and yellowing of leaves (particularly upper ones).
They hate moist environments and last year I mist-sprayed with water twice a day and pulled infected leaves off – terrific control until I went away for a few hot days.
This year I will use SB Plant Invigorator (Bayer Organic Bug Free, a fatty acid spray, is an alternative). The biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis, is an option too.
Having worked commercially with this and the whitefly control, the mini wasp Encarsia formosa, about 30 years ago, I know they are effective, but they are not easy to keep at optimum required numbers. Maybe I have too little patience.
Brassicas are the perfect plant for pests. The cabbage white butterfly was my number one enemy last year.
There are biological controls (Just Caterpillar Killer; just-green.com) but you need to directly spray the caterpillars.
The best method to sort them out, together with pigeons and cabbage root fly, is to net them with Environmesh (agralan.co.uk).
If this is unpractical, or you miss the boat and squashing them does not appeal, Bayer’s Sprayday is a contact pesticide that lasts up to four weeks.
It is used by professionals and you can eat the crop after seven days.
Marigolds special offer
Life readers can buy Marigold Durango mixed 30 plug plants for £12.99 plus 12 free. Supplied as plug plants.
Cheques/Postal orders made out to Telegraph Garden, or call 0844 573 6015 for credit/debit card orders quoting ref. TET04.
Available online at gardenshop.telegraph.co.uk. Delivery to all UK addresses only.
Buy pest control products at Telegraph Garden Shop
SB Plant Invigorator 500ml Ready To Use
This is a 500ml ready to use spray so no dilution needed.
A unique 3 in 1 Pesticide / Mildewcide / Foliar Nutrient that is biodegradable, non-toxic and environmentally friendly
SB Plant Invigorator (SBPI) is an environmentally friendly Pesticide, Mildewcide and Foliar Feed for use on all edible and ornamental crops.
SBPI can be used by professional and amateur growers and gardeners worldwide. It helps to produce quality fruit, vegetables, flowers, bushes, shrubs and trees and controls a wide range of important pest species that include Whitefly, Aphid, Spider Mite, Mealybug, Scale and Psyllids. SBPI has a physical mode of action which is non-chemical and non-biological. If applied correctly pests will not become resistant to SBPI. There is no harvest interval after applying SBPI. The efficacy is excellent.
Suitable for use throughout the year
No harvest interval
Plant stimulant foliar feed for strong healthy growth
Controls plant pests including Whitefly, Aphid, Spider Mite and Mealybug
Pests will not become resistant
Can control mildew
Physical mode of action
SB Plant Invigorator is available in:
250 ml concentrate
500 ml ready-to-use spray Helps prevent chlorosis and improves leaf colour and vigour
Plant wash for a cleaner, shiny appearance
Excellent shelf life.
SB Plant Invigorator – 500ml (Concentrate)
PLANT PESTICIDE AND MILDEWCIDE
Why use toxic chemicals when you can use SB Plant Invigorator (SBPI)?
Controls a wide range of important pest species including Whitefly, Aphid, Spider Mite, Mealybug, Scale and Psyllid. Due to the physical mode of action these pests will not become resistant to SBPI. For use on all edible and ornamental crops
The world is becoming much more “environmentally aware”. Large supermarket chains are demanding lower and lower maximum residue levels (MRL) in fruit, vegetables and now even ornamental crops.
SBPI has a “physical mode of action”. The mode of action is non-chemical and non-biological. Pests will not become resistant to SBPI.
Unlike many other pesticides SBPI does not harm birds & bees
Used by professional and amateur growers and gardeners worldwide.
There is no harvest interval after applying SBPI. The efficacy is excellent.
- Physical mode of pest and mildew control
- Pests will not become resistant
- No harvest interval
- Suitable for use throughout the year
- Plant wash for a cleaner, shiny appearance
- Excellent shelf life
SHAKE BOTTLE WELL BEFORE USE
- To avoid excessive foaming put required amount of water into spray tank and add SBPI, then agitate well.
- Only apply diluted.
- Do not exceed the appropriate application rates.
- For maximum effect spray the upper and lower leaf surfaces thoroughly on a weekly basis.
- Reseal container after use.
- Store out of direct sunlight above 10C and below 25C.
FOR BEST RESULTS SPRAY WEEKLY
10ml concentrate to 1 litre of water.
Ensure spraying equipment is washed out before use.
Some varieities may be susceptible to scorch, especially in hot conditions (advisable to spray small trial area first)
We cannot accept any liability that directly or indirectly results from using, transporting and/or stocking this product.
Warning: Causes skin irritation and serious eye irritation
Wear protective gloves.
IF ON SKIN: Wash with plenty of soap and water.
IF IN EYES: Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Remove contact lenses, if present and easy to do. Continue rinsing.
Do not eat, drink or smoke when using this product. Keep out of reach of children.
If medical advice is needed, have product container or label at hand.
A unique blend of plant safe, physical pest control surfactants.
- USE PESTICIDES SAFELY<br><br>SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS<br>Protection during/in use<br>KEEP OFF SKIN. DO NOT BREATHE SPRAY.<br>WASH HANDS AND EXPOSED SKIN AFTER USE.<br>Environmental protection<br>Use appropriate containment to avoid environmental contamination.<br>Do not contaminate water with the product or its container.<br>Do not empty into drains.<br>Direct spray away from ponds and other surface water bodies.<br>Apply away from bees and open flowers.<br><br>Disposal<br>PROTECT FROM FROST.<br>KEEP AWAY FROM FOOD, DRINK AND ANIMAL FEEDING STUFFS.<br>KEEP PRODUCT AWAY FROM CHILDREN AND PETS.<br><br>Risk and Safety Information<br>To avoid risks to human health and the environment, comply with the instructions for use<br>Read label before use.<br>Do not eat, drink or smoke when using this product.<br>Keep out of reach of children.<br>If medical advice is needed, have product container or label at hand.<br>For the UK only: Dispose of contents/container to a household waste recycling centre as hazardous waste except for empty containers which can be disposed of by recycling. Contact your local council for details.<br>For ROI only: Dispose of contents/container to a licensed waste disposal contractor or collection site, except for triple rinsed empty containers, which can be disposed of as non-hazardous waste.<br><br>Contains 0.15 g/l triticonazole and 0.05 g/l acetamiprid as a ready to use micro-emulsion formulation (ME).
DOES BEE SPRAY GET RID OF BEES?
Bee spray by nest type
The University of Missouri also points out that the type of nest you are trying to get rid of plays an integral part in the treatment choice. For instance, with an exposed nest:
‟Apply a ready-to-use aerosol ‛wasp and hornet spray’ into the entrance of the nest during late evening according to label directions. If no activity is observed the next day, the nest has been successfully exterminated. If live wasps are still observed, repeat the treatment at three-day intervals until they are all dead.”
In the instance of a concealed nest, the University of Missouri points out that ‟aerosol insecticides usually do not work very well against hidden nests.” For ground-nesting bees, a simple soap and water solution should be enough to discourage these solitary bee aggregations.
Be very careful with bee spray
Remember, the last thing you want to do is put you or your family in danger. If you choose to risk fighting bees on your own, heed the EPA’s warning on insecticides:
‟Before you buy a product, read the label! Compare product labels, and learn as much as you can about the pesticide. Contact your County Cooperative Extension Service (listed in the telephone book), local pesticide dealers, the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) at 1.800.858.7378, or your state pesticide agency for assistance.”
The EPA elaborates on how specific labeling is, giving you an idea of the potential hazard over-the-counter bee sprays present:
‟DANGER means poisonous or corrosive. WARNING means moderately hazardous. CAUTION means least hazardous.”
In some states, certain pesticides are illegal for use on bees, but not in others. The best way to be safe, legal and effective is to contact a pest management professional to recommend, handle and apply all forms of bee control, especially since bee spray might not even work on the type of bees endangering your family.
Photo Credit: Umberto Salvagnin
Before you wonder why we discuss how to get rid of bees, we must learn what are the special circumstances that warrant bee repelling.
How Dangerous Are Bees and Why Should We Repel Them?
Bees are an important part of the ecosystem that have garnered much attention in the media. As we all know, bee populations are declining, posing a threat to our entire ecosystem and life itself.
While protecting them is important, this does not mean you should share your living space with them.
- Some species can damage your home or become hostile.
- The good news is that they are generally less destructive than rats or termites.
- The bad news is that they are sometimes difficult to remove.
Know Your Bees
Before choosing a method of removing a colony of bees, it is important to identify the species of stinging insect, and whether it is a bee, wasp, or hornet. This knowledge will give you a better estimate of damages or the threat of stings. Some species also require specialized treatment.
- Bumble Bee: Aggressive only when threatened, the bumble bee prefers to nest in loose, fluffy materials and occasionally underground.
- Carpenter Bee: These oval-shaped bees burrow into surface leaving perfect three-eights inch holes. They are solitary, and rarely damage structural beams. However, individual nests can multiply, eventually destroying the surrounding surface wood.
- Honey Bee: While honey bees are not aggressive and highly beneficial, their nests are heavy and produce thousands of workers. They are the only species where relocation from your home is the preferred method.
Bees vs. Wasps
Wasps resemble bees, but are more aggressive. Common species include:
- Ground Bee: This smaller species of yellow jacket builds nests between two inches and two feet underground, usually in abandoned burrows. They are easily agitated and fairly aggressive.
- Hornet: This aggressive species builds external paper nests that are shaped like an inverted teardrop.
- Yellow Jacket: These black and yellow-striped insects build nests similar to hornets. However, they also build nests in walls and can slowly chew through drywall or surface wood for materials.
- Wasp: Long and thin, a wasp’s legs hang when in flight. They frequently colonize attics and cars, and have a painful sting.
How to Get Rid of Bees Infestations
Human structures often prove attractive to bees, as their natural tendency is to build their hives in tree hollows and similar cavities. In the event that a colony of bees has taken up residence in your home, yard, or vehicle, there are steps you can take to get rid of them.
As they are diurnal (active during the day), it is best to deal with hives after dark.
Let’s see now how to get rid of bees depending on the infestation location!
How to Get Rid of Bees in the House
Dealing with a colony of bees living in your home may be easy or difficult, depending on whether the hive is exposed.
- You should dress in bulky protective clothing and spray an exposed hive with pesticides after dusk to avoid stings.
- Watch the hive at dawn and dusk the next day for any activity and spray again, if necessary.
- Once you are sure the bees are dead, you should remove the hive to avoid the risk of honey or wax melting and causing damage to your walls. This will also make a future infestation less likely.
- In the event of a nest inside the walls, you may need to call a professional.
- Under no circumstances should you plug the entry point, as this may lead any bees in the hive to seek another exit, possibly into your living areas.
How to Get Rid of Bees in the Ground
A simple method for eliminating a ground bee problem is to purchase a chemical spray specifically labelled for ground bees (we recommend Spectracide).
Ground bees are a species of yellow jacket and can become aggressive when agitated, so be sure to dress protectively and spray at night.
- Try to aim the chemical into the hive entrance so that the spray reaches the nesting area.
- Watch the area around dusk or dawn over the next few days for movement and spray again if needed.
- Note that bees who survive the spray will attempt to relocate their nest.
- Under no circumstances should you attempt to kill ground bees by pouring gasoline or other generic chemicals into the nest. Doing so will poison the ground, killing both plants and animals. It may also prove a fire or health hazard to humans.
How to Get Rid of Bees in Your Car
Eliminating bees or wasps from a car is often difficult, depending upon the location of the nest.
- It is dangerous and you should wear bulky, protective clothing and work at night if you plan to approach the colony.
- Sprays such as Raid will often eliminate the bees after a few uses.
- However, in the case of car nesting, the safest solution is to seek out a bee keeper or professional bee removal expert.
- Simply driving or letting the motor run will not eliminate a colony and may prove to agitate the bees.
How to Get Rid of Beehives Around the House
Photo Credit: Jess Pac
It is important to remove a hive after killing the bee colony. Not only does this eliminate dead larvae which will decay and stink, but it will also help prevent any new colonies moving into the abandoned hive.
Removing a wasp nest is different than removing bee hives, so knowing which stinging insect you are dealing with will aid in the removal process.
For all species of bees, the methods of removal are all similar.
- Once the hive is empty, you may knock it down from a tree or other visible surface.
- It is especially important to remove wax hives from your walls, as the wax and honey may melt and cause damage. This means opening a hole in the wall and then breaking the comb apart, removing it a piece at a time.
Wasp species nests, such as the paper wasp (flat with a visible comb), hornet (teardrop and usually hanging from a tree), and yellow jacket (unevenly-shaped or in the ground) can be dangerous to remove.
Be sure that you have eliminated the colony and wear protective clothing in case you encounter a survivor.
- The empty hive may be dislodged and destroyed.
- For ground bees, you may simply pack the hive entrance with dirt.
- For nests in walls, you may use a vacuum to pull corpses from the hive and then seal any openings with caulk to prevent a new colony from forming.
Regardless of the species, hives built inside of a tree hollow or other enclosed space outside of your home will prove difficult to remove.
- In these cases, the method used is to seal the hive.
- Find any openings which may give access to the hive and fill them with caulk, cement, or a similar substance.
How to Get Rid of Bees Naturally
There are several natural methods to help remove an unwanted colony of bees.
- In many cases, you may need to experiment with more than one method before finding one that works best for your particular intruders.
It should be once again noted that you should make every effort to relocate honey bees instead of exterminating them.
Natural Bee Lure
Bees will often relocate to be closer to their food source and are attracted to strong, sweet smells.
- Cut soft, ripe pears or mangoes into chunks and place them into an open sandwich bag.
- Place this 15 to 20 feet away from the hive.
- After a few days, move the bait a few feet further away from the hive.
- Continue this process until the bees stop visiting the original location and have set up a new hive closer to the bag.
A more lethal form of lure is to fill a basin with sugar water and place it where the bees congregate. The bees will be attracted to the water and drown.
- For better effect, add some soap, which will disrupt the water’s surface tension.
Other Natural Bee Removal Solutions
While bees are attracted to sweet smells, they are equally repulsed by pungent smells.
- One of the simplest methods to repel bees is to liberally sprinkle garlic powder in places where the bees congregate.
- Not only will they generally avoid the area, but direct application of the powder on bees may prove lethal.
Citronella candles will not harm bees, but they will avoid any areas containing the smell. This helps protect some areas if you have a hive in your yard, and may prove partially effective in forcing a colony to relocate if you burn the candles close to the hive.
Scatter a handful of cucumber peels as another natural form of repellent.
- The peels give off a scent that bees and many other insects find repulsive.
- The downside to this method is that it is not easily used to make bees abandon their hive.
- However, if used in the garden, the degraded peels will help fertilize your plants.
Add one teaspoon of vinegar or canola oil to a quart of water and place in a spray bottle.
- By spraying bees with this mixture, you not only make it difficult for them to fly, but they will suffocate.
- Adding some dish soap to the mixture will break the surface tension of the water droplets, making the spray even more effective.
- The downside to using sprays, however, is that you must attack the bees directly.
Food-grade diatomaceous earth is an organic pesticide which is comprised of ground diatom shells.
- This substance will lacerate insects that come into contact with it and may also cause dehydration in some insect species such as bed bugs or beetles.
Alternative Solutions for Ground Bees
There are a few ways to deal with ground bees.
The first is to pour boiling water into the hive entrance at night. The water will kill bees on contact. This will not affect bees that are away from the hive, however.
A Glass Jar
Using a large, clear jar is another method to eliminate ground bees.
- Place the jar over the hive entrance at night. During the day, bees will fly out, only to be trapped in the glass.
The heat from direct sunlight will have some effect, but the primary effect is to prevent the bees from having access to food or water.
- The major flaw to this method is that there may be another entrance to the hive by which the ground bees may escape.
The Tarp Method
A third method for removing ground bees requires several large, dark tarps.
- Wearing dark clothing, cover the nest with the tarps, making sure the tarp stretches several feet in every direction.
- Place large stones, bricks, or other weights down around the tarp so that the bees are sealed in.
- With no light and no exit, they will starve to death over the next several days.
- This is one of the best eco-friendly methods of ground bee extermination.
Professional Bee Removal
- Exterminators usually eliminate hives, including wasps and hornets.
- Alternatively, many beekeepers will relocate bee colonies, especially honey bees.
What to Expect from Professional Bee Removal
A professional exterminator will use chemical sprays to destroy the bees or wasps. Often, experts use sprays designed specifically for that species. Once the colony is eliminated, the exterminator will destroy the nest and seal any openings.
Your local beekeeper may or may not offer a removal service. In the event your stinging insects are a species of beneficial bees, they will use a bait trap to coax the colony into a box hive and then relocate that colony.
In the case of a hive in the walls of your house, a beekeeper may opt for extermination or decline the job. Fewer beekeepers are providing this service for species other than honey bees.
How Much Does Bee Removal Cost?
If a beekeeper is available, they may offer to relocate the bees at no cost or for the price of the trip, but only if the colony is healthy.
- According to Cost Helper, the cost of removal for hives exposed to pesticides or wasp species will range between $75 and $200 for visible hives and $100 to $700 for hives located between walls.
- Pest control companies may charge between $100 to $400 or more to remove a hive.
- How Much Does it Cost gives higher estimations for extermination, beginning with $100 to $250 for removal of an exposed hive. A wasp nest will run between $85 and $250, while hives located under a roof or in walls cost $150 to $1,400.
In the event you need to open a wall to remove a hive, there may be additional repair costs. Some companies will do this for $300 to $900. However, not all removal companies offer this service, requiring you to pay another company for the repairs.
Saving Money on Professional Control
To save the greatest amount of money, identify the type of bee or wasp.
- If it is a species of bee, avoid using any chemicals or pesticides until you have called the local beekeepers about removal services.
- Many wasp species may be removed using home kits purchased at your local hardware or grocery store.
- Be sure to use them at night when the wasps are least active.
- Due to their large colony size and aggressive tendencies, hornet nests are best left to professionals.
Additional Resources for Bee Removal
Honeybee Swarm Removal is a national directory of beekeepers which provide removal services.
FAQs Regarding Getting Rid of Bees
How do I get rid of bees naturally?
Some of the most efficient natural bee repellents are:
1. Bee lure that helps with relocation;
2. Garlic powder;
6. Food-grade diatomaceous earth
How do I get rid of ground bees?
For ground bees, you can use:
1. Boiling water;
2. A glass jar trap;
3. Dark-colored tarp trap.
How do I get rid of carpenter bees?
Carpenter bees are also effective pollinators, so you should remove/repel them instead of killing them. Just like most bees, they do not suffer pungent smells, so you can try vinegar, citrus, and even almond oil mixtures.
Who do you call to remove bees?
You can call a professional exterminator or you can enroll the services of a local beekeeper. The former will mostly deal with the harmful species of bees and use chemicals to get rid of them. The latter will most likely employ relocation techniques.
What is the Best Insecticide for Carpenter Bees?
Carpenter Bees are an annually recurring pest for many homeowners. We are frequently asked about the best approach for treating against the bees because they cause expensive wood damage on homes. Much of the confusion from homeowners revolves around not knowing whether to treat the house, spray the bees directly, or treat the damaged area and holes that the bees create.
As with most insect issues, there’s an easy method that can be used to prevent the pest, but an active infestation takes a little bit of investigation and some work to identify and eradicate.
Best insecticide for Preventing Carpenter Bees
The best method for preventing carpenter bees is applying an insecticide spray such as Cyzmic CS on the structure where the bees congregate before they cause damage. This typically happens in the early spring and a spray should be applied in late winter.
Best Insecticide After Carpenter Bee Infestation
Once the bees have created holes in the wooden structure, an insecticide dust such as Tempo Dust is an effective way to kill the bees. The dust gets injected into and around the holes with a duster such as the B&G Bulb Dust-R. An insecticide spray can also be used on the structure as a companion to the dust to stop further damage.
For more information and additional carpenter bee treatment options, refer to Carpenter Bee Control.