- Types of Celosia Flowers
- How to Care for Celosia Plants
- More Varieties of Celosia
- Plant Celosia With:
- Garden Plans For Celosia
- FIRE-RESISTANT LANDSCAPING
- Choose Fire-Resistant Plants and Materials
- Fireproof Landscapes with Fire Resistant Plants, Trees and Shrubs
- How to Create a Fire-Resistant Landscape with Trees and Shrubs
- Chilean flame tree really sets an urban setting alight
- Embothrium Species, Chilean Fire Bush, Flame Flower
- Burning Bush Pruning, Care, and Planting Tips
- Burning Bush Pruning
- Burning Bush Landscaping Ideas
- Ask Mr. Smarty Plants
- Burning Bush – Pruning, Winter Care and Fertilizing
- Learn About The Care Of Burning Bush – How To Grow A Burning Bush Plant
- Burning Bush Growth
- How to Grow a Burning Bush
- Burning Bush Care
- Burning Bush Growth Requirements
- Burning Bush Plant Care
- Burning Bush Plant Maintenance and Propagation
- Burning Bush Shrub Insects
- Propagating Burning Bush
- THe GREEn insider
There are few flowers as showy as celosia. Whether you plant the plumed type, with its striking upright spires, or the crested type with its fascinating twisted form, you’ll love using celosia in bouquets. The flowers are beautiful fresh, but they can be dried easily if hung upside down. And they bloom in the striking colors of a glowing sunset.
Types of Celosia Flowers
A cut bouquet favorite, Celosia or Cockscomb flowers come in several different and unique styles:
- The spicata, or candle type blooms, cover the plant in upright narrow blooms reminiscent of wheat grass seed heads.
- Plumosa type blooms, from the most common group of celosias, have broader-based flowers than spicata types. These blooms look like little flames perched atop the plants.
- The cristata variety, with its coral-like appearance, is the most unique looking of the celosia group. Because it grows so much larger than its counterparts, this celosia variety tends to flower less (sometimes producing only one bloom at a time).
The blooms of celosia are rather stiff and waxy, which makes them a great option for bouquets. The plant’s colorful flowers are produced in abundance all over the plant, and they last for a very long time. While aging naturally on the plant, celosia flowers fade to a whisper of their previous hue, taking on a straw-like appearance.
Celosia leaves are generally light green with a colored mid-rib that matches the bloom on the plant. There are some newer varieties with very attractive burgundy foliage, which deepens in color in full summer sun. The stems of the plant also reflect the color of the bloom, creating a striking effect.
How to Care for Celosia Plants
Celosia does need a little bit of maintenance throughout the growing season. Plant established seedlings in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Since the blooms are so rugged, the plant will hold onto them until they have dried on the plant. This means they will need to be manually removed to keep the plants looking nice and fresh. Celosia also likes rich, well-drained soil with moderate water. Overall, these are resilient plants with very few problems.
A few pests to watch out for are aphids and spider mites (the latter can be a problem in hot, dry weather).
Celosia is easily grown from seed or cuttings, and growing a variety of celosia adds a splash of color to your containers or garden beds. When selecting your varieties, make sure you choose plants that are size appropriate. Some varieties are primarily grown for cut flowers and can get quite large and require staking. Many of the new varieties are only available from cuttings so you won’t find seeds to grow them.
A word of caution: Don’t be too rough with these plants, as the stems are succulent and prone to breakage.
More Varieties of Celosia
‘Amigo Red’ Celosia
Celosia ‘Amigo Red’ offers crested red flowers on a compact plant with excellent heat and drought tolerance. It grows 6 inches tall and wide.
‘Flamingo Feather’ Celosia
Celosia ‘Flamingo Feather’ grows 4 feet tall and bears plume-type pink flowers that dry well.
‘Armor Yellow’ Celosia
Celosia ‘Armor Yellow’ grows 16 inches tall and bears crested yellow blooms.
‘Fresh Look Yellow’ Celosia
Celosia ‘Fresh Look Yellow’ grows about 20 inches tall and bears abundant plume-type yellow flowers.
‘Intenz’ Celosia Argentea
Bright fuchsia candles cover celosia argentea “Intenz” all season and the plants usually reach 12–16 inches tall.
‘Fresh Look Red’ Celosia
Celosia ‘Fresh Look Red’ is an award-winning selection with plumes of rosy-red flowers. It grows 18 inches tall.
‘New Look’ Celosia
Celosia ‘New Look’ bears red plumes and beautiful purple-tinged foliage. It grows 14 inches tall.
‘New Look Red’ Celosia
Celosia ‘New Look Red’ grows 20 inches tall and bears red flowers over burgundy-red foliage.
Plant Celosia With:
As mentioned above, Celosia is an incredible plant to use in arrangements, from fresh bouquets to dried seasonal wreaths. See some of the plants we believe are perfectly paired with Celosia.
Angelonia is also called summer snapdragon, and once you get a good look at it, you’ll know why. It has salvia-like flower spires that reach 1-2 feet high studded with fascinating snapdragon-like flowers with beautiful colorations in purple, white, or pink. It’s the perfect plant for adding bright color to hot, sunny spaces. This tough plant blooms all summer long. While all varieties are beautiful, keep an eye out for the sweetly scented selections. While most gardeners treat angelonia as an annual, it is a tough perennial in Zones 9-10. Or, if you have a bright, sunny spot indoors, you can keep it flowering all winter.
There’s nothing subtle about an African marigold, and thank goodness for that! It’s a big, flamboyant, colorful punch of color for the sunny bed, border, or large container. Most are yellow, orange, or cream. Plants grow up to 3 feet tall and produce huge 3-inch puffball blooms while dwarf varieties get just 1 foot tall. The mounded dark green foliage is always clean, fresh, and tidy. Grow them in a warm, sunny spot with moist, well-drained soil all summer long.
Nasturtiums are so versatile. They grow easily from seed sown directly in your garden’s poorest soil and bloom all season until frost. They are never greedy about food or fertilizer. Nasturtiums are available in either spreading or climbing types. Plant spreading types in large containers to spill over the sides. Plant them alongside wide paths to soften the sides for a romantic look. Use nasturtium to brighten a rock garden or between paving stones. Plant them at the edges of beds and borders to fill in between other plants and add soft, flowing color. Train climbing types up trellises or alongside fences. The leaves and flowers are edible; use them as a showy plate garnish or to jazz up salads.
Garden Plans For Celosia
A fire-resistant landscape isn’t necessarily the same thing as a well-maintained yard. This type of landscape uses fire-resistant plants that are strategically planted to resist the spread of fire to your home. Fire resistant plants are great in California because they are often drought tolerant, too.
The good news is, you don’t need a lot of money to make your landscape fire resistant. And you will find that a fire-resistant landscape can increase your property value and conserve water while beautifying your home.
Choose Fire-Resistant Plants and Materials
- Create fire-resistant zones with stone walls, patios, decks and roadways.
- Use rock, mulch, flower beds and gardens as ground cover for bare spaces and as effective firebreaks.
- There are no “fire-proof” plants. Select high-moisture plants that grow close to the ground and have a low sap or resin content.
- Choose fire-retardant plant species that resist ignition such as rockrose, ice plant and aloe.
- Select fire-resistant shrubs such as hedging roses, bush honeysuckles, currant, cotoneaster, sumac and shrub apples.
- Plant hardwood, maple, poplar and cherry trees that are less flammable than pine, fir and other conifers.
Check your local nursery, landscape contractor or county’s UC Cooperative Extension service for advice on fire-resistant plants that are suited for your area.
FRENCH LAVENDER is a fire resistant plant that thrives in dry growing conditions. This low-key plant will add beauty to your defensible space landscape.
Red Monkey Flower
The fire resistant RED MONKEY FLOWER yields beautiful bright red blossoms. This evergreen shrub is also drought tolerant and a California native species.
The deer resistant CALIFORNIA FUCHSIA has bright orange-red funnel-shaped flowers. This perennial is fire safe and needs little to no water once established.
SAGE is a low maintenance plant that provides fire resistance while being drought tolerant.
The CALIFORNIA LILAC is the name of this colorful shrub. This fire resistant plant is drought tolerant and is covered with small pink and purple flowers when in bloom.
This common landscape plant is a smart choice, the SOCIETY GARLIC is fire safe and grows in drought prone regions.
The ORNAMENTAL STRAWBERRY is a great ground cover plant. This fire resistant plan can be used to give a lush look to your landscape.
Yellow Ice Plant
The YELLOW ICE PLANT is a very low-growing ground cover with succulent, green foliage. This succulent requires very little watering and is fire safe.
The COREOPSIS PLANT is popular due to its tolerance to a wide variety of soil types, Its fire safe, making it the perfect addition to your landscape.
California Red Bud
The CALIFORNIA REDBUD is the name of this colorful shrub. The fire resistant plant is drought tolerant and is covered with small pink and purple flowers when in bloom.
Fireproof Landscapes with Fire Resistant Plants, Trees and Shrubs
There are, on average, more than 100,000 wildfires each year in the US. Western states, like California, Texas and Colorado, are more prone to wildfires.
Traveling at up to 14 miles an hour, wildfires are scary and can do an incredible amount of damage. In recent years, wildfires have burned an estimated 9 million acres in the U.S. alone.
Do your best to protect your home by creating a defensible space and planting fire resistant plants, trees and shrubs.
How to Create a Fire-Resistant Landscape with Trees and Shrubs
Before wildfire season, you want to create a defensible space, which is essentially a radius around your home to protect it from wildfires.
“The main reason for defensible space is to reduce the amount of flammable vegetation and give the fire departments the opportunity to ‘defend’ your home from fire,” explained Tim Morin, forester and project developer for Davey Resource Group in California. “Having your home protected with defensible space not only protects you but your neighbors as well.”
Start with these steps to fire-proof your current landscape.
- Prune trees to remove deadwood and lower hanging branches. Trees between 30 and 70 feet from your home should have the lower branches pruned to a height of eight feet from the ground. And those branches should be no less than eight feet from the roof or 10 feet from the chimney.
- Remove plants, trees or shrubs that are highly flammable, like coniferous trees and shrubs, within 30’ of your home.
- Remove pine needles and other ground litter, including dead leaves.
- Stack firewood at least 30’ from your home.
- Mow dry grass and weeds to a low height.
Then add fire-resistant plants, trees and shrubs – some native to California.
Fire-resistant plants? Yes, they’re real! Despite their name, though, they’re not invincible to flames and can still be injured or killed by fires. Instead, these plants generally contain lots of moisture, which reduces their risk of contributing to the fire.
Before planting, space your plants and trees correctly to reduce wildfires from spreading. Plant trees at least 10’ away from each other (or more if you’re on a slope) and at least 30’ from your home.
Fire Resistant Plant List (California Natives Included)
All plants with an asterisk are native to California.
- Coneflower* (zones 3-9): An easy, drought-tolerant perennial that pollinators love
- The California coneflower is native to California.
- Cooking sage (zones 4-10): A perennial herb you’ll love to cook with and smell in the garden
- Coralbells* (zones 3-9): A low-maintenance perennial with bright blooms that attract birds
- Daylily (zones 3-10): A drought-tolerant perennial with fragrant, showy flowers
- Fescue* (zones 4-8): A silver-blue ornamental grass that’s drought-tolerant
- California fescue is native to California.
- Hens and chicks (zones 4-8): An easy, drought-tolerant groundcover that thrives in xeriscapes
- Poppy* (zones ~2-8): Techno-colored blooms that love hot, dry areas
- The California poppy is native to California.
- Wooly thyme (zones 4-7): A drought-tolerant groundcover that’s also an herb
- Stonecrop* (zones 4-11): A tough perennial with dusty-hued blooms
- Yarrow* (zones 3-10): A drought-tolerant plant with bright flowers that attract pollinators
- The California yarrow is, as its name implies, native to California!
Fire Resistant Shrubs (Including Those Native to California)
All shrubs with an asterisk are native to California.
- Golden currant (zones 4-8): A shrub that can grow 12’ tall with yellow, pollinator-attracting flowers
- Heather (zones 6-10): A perennial shrub that grows up to 8’ tall and blooms in early spring
- Honeysuckle* (zones 4-9): A sweet-smelling flowering vine that hummingbirds love
- Lilac (zones 2-9): A flowering shrub that can grow up to 20’ tall and has an amazing fragrance
- Oceanspray* (zones 5-10): A shrub that can grow up to 20’ tall with flowers in early summer that look like the mist from crashing waves
- Raspberry* (zones 4-9): A shrub that can grow up to 8’ tall and reward you with delicious fruits
- The Western raspberry is native to California.
- Roses* (3-10): Many rose varieties, like shrub and hedging roses, are fire-resistant and gorgeous.
- Russian sage (zones 4-9): A sun-loving perennial that has purple blooms for weeks on end
- Waxflower (zones 10-11): An easy-to-care, flowering shrub that loves hot, dry weather
- Yucca* (zones 4-11): An architectural shrub that can grow up to 3’ tall and is drought tolerant
Fire Resistant Trees (With California Natives)
All trees with an asterisk are native to California.
- Black oak (zones 3-9): A large, drought-tolerant tree that birds love
- Cherry* (~zones 3-9): Many varieties of cherry trees are resistant to fire.
- The hollyleaf cherry is native to California.
- Crabapple* (~zones 2-8): A small ornamental tree with stunning flowers that pollinators love
- The Pacific crabapple tree is native to California.
- Hawthorn* (~zones 4-8): A tree that grows to be about 30’ tall with snowy-white blooms
- Honeylocust* (zones 3-9): A strong, fast-growing shade tree that can be up to 70’ tall
- Maple* (~zones 3-9): One of the most popular trees, you can find the right variety for you!
- Poplar (zones 3-9): A fast-growing shade tree that loves the sun but is prone to broken limbs
- Quaking aspen* (zones 1-7): A fast-growing tree with golden fall foliage
- River birch (zones 4-9): A birch with glossy green leaves that is the most resistant to birch borers
Chilean flame tree really sets an urban setting alight
The flowers are flaming red, designed to attract pollinating hummingbirds in its native land.
The botanical name is embothrium and it does best in the southwest of this country, where it is mild and damp, doing less well in drier eastern areas, but it still does well anywhere not too far from the coast. It is not completely hardy and can be damaged by hard frosts. It is less likely to be affected by frost when it is established due to the bark being thicker.
It is a variable plant in its native range in South America, some kinds evergreen, some deciduous, for instance. The type grown here is generally fairly tall, evergreen, reaching five or six metres in good conditions, with brilliant orange-red flowers. The display peaks in May but lasts for several weeks from start to finish.
The soil must be acidic or neutral, the flame tree does not tolerate lime in the soil. The soil must also be light, well-drained and deep, but moist-retentive and not overly rich. Most areas with acid soil fall into this category. The ideal soil should have plenty of well-rotted humus, and this can be dug in, or applied as a mulch, especially in the form of leaf-mould.
FIERY: Chilean flame tree
Choose the planting spot carefully because this is a very showy tree and it can look out of place and jarring against natural countryside. It looks fine in any urban setting.
Also remember that it can make a big bush to six metres tall and as wide if there is space.
Plant the tree carefully, preparing the ground well and afterwards ensure no weed or grass competition over a circle of at least one metre diameter.
The young tree grows at a rapid rate, at least 60cm of growth each year. It flowers just a few years after planting and will flower reliably each year afterwards. It needs good shelter to grow fast and to avoid winter damage to the foliage.
It seems a lot of trouble, but it is actually quite easy to grow, given the right conditions. Although more available in recent years, it can be difficult to find still. It can be grown from suckers that commonly appear near the parent tree, and cuttings from mid-summer are a possibility too.
Embothrium Species, Chilean Fire Bush, Flame Flower
Unknown – Tell us
Sun to Partial Shade
Unknown – Tell us
20-30 ft. (6-9 m)
30-40 ft. (9-12 m)
12-15 ft. (3.6-4.7 m)
USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)
USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)
USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)
USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
Where to Grow:
Unknown – Tell us
Unknown – Tell us
Scarlet (dark red)
Unknown – Tell us
Unknown – Tell us
Late Spring/Early Summer
Unknown – Tell us
Soil pH requirements:
5.1 to 5.5 (strongly acidic)
5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)
From seed; stratify if sowing indoors
From seed; direct sow after last frost
Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed
Properly cleaned, seed can be successfully stored
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
El Campo, Texas
Federal Way, Washington
Seattle, Washington(2 reports)
Burning Bush Pruning, Care, and Planting Tips
The Burning Bush, also called the Euonymus alatus, and the winged euonymus, is one of the most colorful shrubs out there. A brilliant, fire-red illuminates off the shrub, catching everyone’s eye. The best part about this shrub is the colorful display that will last for months! Not only does the shrub have great fall color but in the spring and summer it is covered in a beautiful shade of green. While the color adds great appeal to the Burning Bush plant, there are many other attractive qualities. This no maintenance, no headache shrub is easy to grow and extremely hardy. The Burning Bush is a fast-growing shrub. You could use the Burning Bush in a variety of ways, making it easy to place in any landscape. Be warned that it is sure to steal attention from all others around it and make your yard the talk of the neighborhood. Learn some tips and tricks for burning bush pruning, care, and more.
The Burning Bush grows best in partial shade to full sun. It develops and comes into its well-known bright red color when planted and grown in full sunlight. It can however, become very red in areas that receive a few hours of shade each day. This brilliant shrub does very well in areas with a strong hot sun, followed by light, shade in the afternoon. While the Burning Bushes do well in the shade, extended periods of shade will interfere with the beautiful fall color that is anticipated. A more faded reddish pink could be the result of too much shade. Though a pretty color, it does not have the same effect as the bright red hue it is famous for.
The Burning Bush is a very highly adaptable shrub. You can plant it in a variety of soils without any problems or concerns. It prefers a well-drained soil. The PH levels of the soil have no effect on how the Burning Bush grows. This shrub has the ability to grow in all soil PH levels but they do tend to favor acidic soil with PH levels of 6.0-6.5.
Once established, the Burning Bush has a great drought tolerance, requiring little watering. It also has a strong tolerance for a variety of climates. Homeowners all over the country will have no problem growing the Burning Bush.
Burning Bush Pruning
As stated above, the Burning Bush is a no maintenance required shrub. However, like anything, it does require a little TLC. When to prune burning bushes. Pruning your Burning Bush in late winter/early spring will help it stay healthy and looking good. If you neglect to do so, it could lead to more work down the road.
How to Prune Burning Bushes
There are 4 pruning stages your Burning Bush could require.
- Light Pruning
Light pruning is just a matter of maintaining the shape of the Burning Bush. This can be done at any time during the year. Cutting overgrown branches back to the form of the bush during the summer helps to keep it in shape. We suggest cutting branches at a 45’ angle, this allows water to run off easily.
- Routine Pruning
Routine pruning takes place before new growth, usually done in late winter or early spring. During this time you remove dead or diseased wood. Removing the dead or diseased wood close to the main branch or pruning dead plant parts helps to make a healthy bud, allowing healthy wood to grow. In essence, this creates a healthy Burning Bush. Routine pruning (done annually) helps to prevent serious problems which will require more time and care.
- Heavy Pruning
When your Burning Bush has been neglected (usually when routine pruning does not occur) it requires a more invasive pruning process in order to be rejuvenated. Heavy pruning needs to be done in late winter or early spring before new growth. What you will need to do is cut 1/3 of the new canes growing from around the base of the Burning Bush to the ground level. This must be done with a pruning saw or pruning shears. This opens the center of the shrub, letting light in and improves air circulation. At the same time you are also controlling the size and density of the shrub.
- Severe Pruning
This occurs when the Burning Bush has been drastically neglected. Typically, at this point, the shrub is overgrown or sickly. With a saw you must cut the entire Burning Bush to ground level in early spring. This gives new growth plenty of growing time.
Burning Bush Landscaping Ideas
Need Burning Bush landscaping ideas? The Burning Bush is one of those shrubs that could be used in a variety of ways. Its adaptability, size and tolerance make this plant even more incredible. The attention grabbing, Burning Bush could go anywhere in your landscape and serve any purpose. The Burning Bush is great for foundation plants, privacy hedges, borders, entryways, mass planting and even formal planting.
Burning Bushes make great borders and hedges for both small and large properties. We suggest you plant these bushes 5-6 ft. apart if you choose them for your border. Plant several Burning Bushes 1 foot apart to create a hedge. These colorful shrubs makes a great hedge plant. They are very dense and grow into neat, compact hedges that require very little maintenance.The naturally round shape of the Burning Bush makes it a great choice as a focal point in your yard. The bright red beauty does not need to be surrounded by other plants in order to turn heads. It is a perfect specimen plant. The Burning Bush will turn your once mediocre yard into the talk of the neighborhood. The Burning Bush could also be placed in the center of your garden. Surround it with flowers with equally beautiful fall color.
Due to their incredible adaptability and tolerance for weather conditions and pollution, the Burning Bush is great for urban areas. Issues that sometimes inhibit other plants are no problem for the this tough shrub. It is the perfect choice for anyone, anywhere.
If you’re thinking of adding more plants to your yard, it is important to choose ones that pair well with the Burning Bush. The Burning Bush has such a dynamic red color that it over powers most plants. However, there are plants that when paired with the Burning Bush shrub will complement each other well.
Evergreens, woody trees and a few colorful trees all mix well with the Burning Bush. Evergreens are a perfect match for the Burning Bush. They provide the right contrasting background that will make the bright red of the Burning Bush pop! Evergreens are tall, pyramid like, with dark green feathery needles. They pair well with the Burning Bush which is upright, compact and round with smooth red leaves. When the leaves of the Burning Bush start to shed, the beautiful evergreen will provide a great backdrop for the bare branches. We suggest the Deodora Cedar, Japanese Cryptomeria or the Douglas Fir as suitable evergreens. The Crape Myrtle and River Birch pair well to create a forest like vibe for your landscape. These woody trees provide a peeling look, have flaking bark or multi stemmed trunks. These features mixed with the Burning Bush makes for a great combination.
Check out our Evergreen Trees and Shade Trees for complementary options!
Now, to add more color to your landscape, pick trees with primary colors that only enhance the beauty of this shrub. The Burning Bush is a fall delight. Therefore, adding other fall colors will look amazing! Trees with yellow such as the Ginkgo, Quaking Aspen or the Witch Hazel will provide such a contrast leaving people breathless. There are also trees such as the Sugar Maple and Sassafras that have a yellow to orange color to their leaves. These colors will go perfect with the Burning Bush. Perhaps you want to go one step further and bring in more red or a purplish color. The Japanese Maple is a great choice. However, do not be overbearing with these trees. You do not want to take away from or clash with the Burning Bush.
Ask Mr. Smarty Plants
More Pruning Questions
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Care for some non-native salvias from Austin
November 12, 2012 – Mexican bush sage and Salvia “indigo spires” are both blooming in my Austin beds right now. Once they stop blooming and/or frost gets them, could you tell me by how much they should be cut back? R…
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Cutting back salvia greggii in Birmingham, AL
February 23, 2010 – When is a good time to cut back salvia gregii and how much can you cut it back. We will probably still have frost. Will it grow in sun and shade?
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Conditions for wisteria bloom on Ontario, Canada
November 05, 2005 – I live in Ontario Canada, and about 4 years ago I bought a shrub which was called wisteria. I loved this bush when I visited a cousin out in British Columbia. The problem is it has no trouble growing …
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Pruning Texas madrone trees from Utopia TX
August 19, 2012 – I have a number of large Texas Madrone trees on my ranch in Utopia Texas. A few of them have dead limbs and I was wondering whether I should cut off the dead limbs or just leave the tree alone. I wa…
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Burning Bush – Pruning, Winter Care and Fertilizing
Burning Bush, Dwarf Burning Bush and Compact Burning Bush.
Full sized Burning Bush is designated as an invasive species in Wisconsin and is no longer recommended for new plantings. Dwarf and compact varieties are not considered invasive.
These shrubs are often used in mass plantings or as a hedge. The same pruning technique can be used if they are planted as a specimen. For these plants, pruning should be done in the early spring, before they leaf out. Shear or prune the outer branch tips to shape and reduce the size of the plant. Repeat this pruning technique throughout the summer, as needed.
As the plant matures, renewal pruning will be needed. This is done in early spring, by removing the largest, heaviest canes all the way to the ground. One to five branches can be removed each year, depending on the size of the plant. If a reduction in the plants overall height is needed, it should be done in combination with renewal pruning. If you are forming a hedge, allow light to reach all areas of the hedge by leaving the base of the plants wider than the top. This will help prevent the lower branches from dying. Dense hedges will require “pick pruning” to increase the longevity of the plant. This is done by pruning out small holes in the surface of the hedge to let light reach the interior of the plant and promote inside budding. This interior budding allows you to shear the plants for a longer time without letting the plants get too large.
Young shrubs benefit greatly from fertilizing, particularly shrubs that are being used for leaf color rather than for flower development. Granular, liquid or stake type fertilizers can be used. Granular types should be worked into the soil around the plant at a rate of 2 pounds or 2 pints per 100 square feet of planting bed. An alternative way is to drill or punch 6″ deep holes at the drip line of the plant. Poured into these holes should be a total of 1/4 pound of fertilizer per foot of height or spread of the shrub (divided up and poured evenly between all of the holes). These holes should not be filled with more than 1/3 of the fertilizer and then they should be top filled with soil. This method of fertilization should only be done once a year, and is best done in late fall after leaf drop, or in early spring before bud break. Liquid fertilizers (such as Miracle Gro ) are mixed with water and applied the same as you would water the plant (see product for specific details). This should be done three or four times per year starting in late April and ending in mid July. Stake type fertilizers can be used following the directions on the package. With any of the above techniques a higher nitrogen mix should be used; 21-7-14, 20-10-10, 16-10-9 or similar mixes. Organic fertilizers, like manure, can also be used with good results. This material should be worked into open soil at a rate of one bushel per 6′ shrub or 100 square feet of bed area.
Rabbits can do a great deal of damage to this plant in the winter. The plants can be protected with a fence formed with hardware cloth (looks like chicken wire but with small square holes). To do this, the plants branches should be tied in towards the center, and a circle of hardware cloth can be placed around the outside. The base of the hardware cloth should be buried in the soil or mulch. This protection should be installed in late November and removed in mid April.
Learn About The Care Of Burning Bush – How To Grow A Burning Bush Plant
Gardeners who want a burst of crimson color in fall should learn how to grow a burning bush (Euonymus alatus). The plant is from a large group of shrubs and small trees in the genus Euonymous. Native to Asia, this large bush has a natural open form that shows well in borders, beds and even containers. Almost any site and soil condition is sufficient when growing burning bush plants. Care of burning bush is minimal too, which makes the plant an excellent choice for even novice gardeners.
Burning Bush Growth
The arching stems are decorated with clusters of finely pointed leaves that droop appealingly from the branch. The plant is also called winged Euonymous because of the ridges that arise on young burning bush growth. These disappear after the stems mature.
The plant will get tiny flowers in May to June that turn into tiny dangling red berries. Birds eat the berries and inadvertently plant the seeds in your garden. In rich soils, even dropped berries may sprout and become new plants.
You can plant a dwarf
form of the bush in small spaces or to minimize maintenance, especially since the plant’s 15-foot height may be too great for some landscape applications. There are two excellent cultivars, which produce smaller, dwarf forms of this bright Euonymous:
- ‘Rudy Haag’ is a slow growing diminutive form of the bush that will get only 5 feet tall in 15 years.
- ‘Compactus’ is aptly named and may grow 10 feet tall over many years.
How to Grow a Burning Bush
Burning bush grows well in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 8 but can become invasive in the warmer ranges. Burning bush plants may get 9 to 15 feet tall and are suitable for full sun to partial sun locations.
Any soil type, including alkaline, may support burning bush growth. However, when growing burning bush, it’s best to place the shrub in sites with excellent drainage but lightly moist soil.
Burning Bush Care
There is little to know about caring for burning bush, as this plant is versatile and hardy. In fact, no special care of burning bush is required for a splendid color display. The plant produces only on early flush of new growth in spring, so you should apply fertilizer very early to maximize the effect.
Burning bush care also includes occasional pruning to keep the size down and remove any broken or damaged branches. The natural shape of the bush is appealing, so pruning is not necessary, but if you wish to trim the plant, do so in very early spring before leaves appear.
The plant has few pest problems or disease except some foliar fungal issues. Reduce overhead watering to combat fungal problems. Burning bush plants are occasionally susceptible to scale insects. These are scab-like white insects that only move around during the development phase. They are sucking insects that can reduce the vigor of the plant if they are in large populations. Scrape, rinse and control them with horticultural oil sprays or neem oil.
Homeowners looking for a scintillating burst of bright crimson in their garden or yard won’t have to look very far- the Euonymus alatus, or the Burning Bush plant is the perfect choice!
The name burning bush derives from the plants foliage during fall. Also, people remember the story in the Bible where God appears to Moses using a bush which appeared as it caught fire, but does not burn.
This native plant hails from the genus Euonymus, a group of small trees and deciduous shrubs.
The Burning Bush originally hails from Asia. It’s known by other names such as the Winged Euonymus, the Wahoo and the Winged Spindle Tree.
Burning Bush is most appropriate for describing its brilliant explosion of fiery leaves that show amazingly well in containers, beds and borders. Everyone will love its fall color.
The Burning Bush has several varieties, but most of them fall under two main categories. The Winged Euonymus, or the Euonymus alatus, the older species of the two.
It can grow up to 15 feet tall, towering over the landscape with its uniquely winged bark.
The Euonymus alatus compactus is the second type, only reaching a maximum of 10 feet and its bark is not as winged – as the Euonymus alatus.
The Euonymus alatus has earned its name for bearing stunning foliage of autumn display, whether as a bright ornamental display or a dazzling addition to any garden or landscape. Its fall color serve as a great decor in many outdoor settings.
Six of the Euonymus species can be found in North America. Other native species include Eastern Wahoo (E. atropurpureus), Strawberry bush (E. americanus), and Running Strawberry bush (E. obavatus).
The stem arches openly over with clusters of pointed leaves drooping over from the branches.
Look closer and you’ll see the curious ridges rising from the bushes’ growth, fleetingly disappearing once the stem matures.
Small flowers will grow in between the months of May to June and turn into little bright red berries that catch the attention of the birds.
These birds come in to eat, but they also help scatter the seeds which fall to the ground and become new Burning Bushes.
This plant is hardy enough to survive in almost any soil condition. Level of care is also very low, which makes it appealing to novice gardeners looking to add an easy to plant to their green repertoire.
Burning Bush Growth Requirements
The Burning Bush shrub is rated as hardy and can thrive in zones 4 to 8, becoming one invasive species of plants in warmer zones.
They grow well with their faces exposed to partial shade or full sunlight. As mentioned, you can grow the Burning Bush on almost any suitable soil, even the alkaline ones!
Owners may prepare a sunny spot for which to plant their Burning Bush in. The most optimal soil type is one that is moist and slightly acidic.
Don’t worry too much about the exact nature and water content of your soil. The Euonymus alatus can grow even if the soil is dry, poor, or has the wrong pH level.
They are wonderful plants that can adapt even in partial sunlight locations. Owners looking for the boldest red displays will need to put their plants in contact with direct sunshine.
Shade can slow down their growth and even mute the blazing leaves to faded yellow or pale pink ones.
Like most plants, the Burning Bush can do with a little more water during the summer or in droughts.
Burning Bush Plant Care
Flaming bush care can be summed up in two words- easy and stress-free. It can grow fine in less optimal conditions such as low sunlight and poor soil.
The tough characteristic of this plant makes it a favorite in landscape applications among urban landscapers and homeowners.
There’s virtually no requirement for seeing this drought tolerant plant produce bright-colored, flame-kissed leaves that lighten up the garden!
Just remember to place it where there’s plenty of sunlight and put some fertilizers come springtime to maximize the splendid display.
A compact Burning Bush dwarf is available if you have small spaces or you wish not to trim them too often, or if the tall shrub isn’t a good fit into your landscape.
The “Rudy Haag” is a variation of the Burning Bush shrubs that only grows to a maximum of 5 feet tall, while the Compactus may only grow up to 10 feet in many a year.
Burning Bush Plant Maintenance and Propagation
So, when to trim burning bush?
The speedy growth of the fireball Burning Bush might surprise its owners, as it is a shrub that can outgrow the space where you plant it in.
Though you won’t need to keep a careful eye on the plant, you’ll need to keep it bright and attractive with the occasional burning bush pruning every now and then.
Rejuvenation Pruning In Early Spring
Rejuvenation pruning is what you need to keep the Burning Bushes’ tall size manageable and encourage new growth come spring.
Try to schedule the trimming of stems early spring, just right before the shrub starts producing new leaves.
Use sharp hedge clippers or pruning shears and remove everything except 1 to 3 inches of the Burning Bush from the ground.
Don’t worry because the plant will grow right back and be as vigorous as ever!
Pruning For A More Eye-Catching Shape – Late Winter
Should you need to prune the Burning Bush tree into a more eye-catching shape, do it when the plant is dormant (usually before spring comes or in the late winter) and use sharp hedge clippers or pruning shears for the job.
Get the top a bit more narrow than the bottom for the sunlight to penetrate into the branches.
Start the pruning process and take out any branch that falls outside the picture; remove broken or damaged branches while you’re at it as well.
Burning Bush Shrub Insects
The Burning Bush is a favorite for garden insects and bugs, as well as the rabbits. They can destroy a Burning Bush by chewing all the bark where they can reach it.
This goes the same for stray deer, so you’ll have to keep a close eye on wild animals.
You’ll also need to check for possible fungal spots, mildew, stem diebacks and witches’ brooms on the leaves and remove them as soon as possible.
Use all natural Neem pesticide or horticultural oil sprays to remove scale insects and kill off spider mites off the plant, then scrape and rinse the destructive fungal growth as needed.
Propagating Burning Bush
Burning bush hedge can be rooted from softwood cutting taken in spring. Use a well-drained soil and dip the cutting into a rooting hormone. Roots should begin to form in about 3 weeks.
Propagating From Seed
Propagation is done naturally by birds scattering the seed to the ground. Homeowners can also spread it gathering fresh seeds and prepare soil with half-inch deep gouges during late fall for germination.
You may also start the growth process indoors after keeping them in the refrigerator at about 40 degrees for about 3 months.
Plant seeds in the summer when soil temperatures are warm. Germination should take approximately 5-6 weeks. The seed turns into a beautiful shrub in about 4 years’ time. Those who are less patient may buy their plants from a good local nursery.
THe GREEn insider
Burning bushes, also known as Euonymus alata, are among the most popular and common plants planted in landscapes throughout the United States. Its brilliant red color observed in the late summer and fall season is the reason for its popularity. While most plants maintain the same color year round, burning bushes go from green to red as the season changes from summer to fall.
Why then do so many burning bushes defoliate before they go from green leaves to brilliant red? The biggest culprit is spider mites. Spider mites feeding on burning bush will cause discolored leaves and leaf drop. Spider mites will suck the sap out of the leaf. This can severely stress the plant. Spider mites are not an insect. They have eight legs and are more closely related to spiders. Hot dry weather favors a population explosion of mites. You may see webbing on the leaves and branches. To determine if the plant is infested with spider mites, hold a sheet of white paper underneath some of the discolored leaves and tap the leaves. Tiny dark specks about the size of pepper that move around are spider mites.
So how do make sure your burning bush catch on fire? Ironically with water! That’s right; make sure you provide water to the plants to keep them healthy, especially during the hot and dry summer months. Spider mite damage will be more significant on stressed plants and a significant reason why they will defoliate. Additionally, treating the burning bushes with miticide insect control, mixed with water I might add, will control both the adult spider mites as well as the egg population that spreads the spider mites.
So go ahead and enjoy those burning bushes this year!
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