Monsanto executives said this week that they did not expect the agency’s action to affect sales. But that could depend on whether regulators around the world impose restrictions on glyphosate use after the W.H.O. pronouncement. A spokesman for the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment said it was evaluating whether products containing glyphosate might have to be labeled as posing a cancer hazard under the state’s Proposition 65.

Some consumer and environmental groups said on Friday that the findings strengthen the case for the labeling of genetically modified foods. They also called upon the E.P.A. to re-evaluate glyphosate and a newer weed killer from Dow Chemical that combines glyphosate and another herbicide, 2,4-D.

The E.P.A. said it would consider the W.H.O. agency’s finding in its own review of glyphosate. The E.P.A. has maintained its classification of glyphosate as having “evidence of noncarcinogenicity for humans” since 1991, including through a review last year.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer looks at a very narrow question: whether a substance or behavior might cause cancer under some circumstances, even if those circumstances are unlikely to occur. It does not weigh the benefit versus the risks of a chemical, leaving that up to national regulators.

The agency classifies alcoholic beverages as human carcinogens, along with tobacco, arsenic and asbestos. Working the night shift or being a hairdresser are classified as probably cancer-causing, the same as glyphosate, because one job disrupts the body’s circadian rhythms and the other involves exposure to dyes. Coffee is a “possible” carcinogen, a lower level.

Over all, the agency has reviewed 983 things like chemicals and occupations. About half could not be classified based on the evidence. Only one compound, caprolactam, which is used to make a type of nylon, had enough evidence in its favor to be judged “probably not” carcinogenic.

There are also differences in interpretation. Monsanto and some regulators say the preponderance of studies shows no cancer risk from glyphosate. But for the W.H.O. agency, a few positive findings can be enough to declare a hazard, even if there are negative studies as well.

Herbicide Plant Damage: How To Treat Plants Accidentally Sprayed With Herbicide

Herbicide plant damage can arise in a variety of forms. It is usually the result of unintentional contact with chemicals from spray drift or contact with vapor. Recognizing accidental herbicide injury may be difficult as the symptoms can mimic other plant conditions. Know the classic signs and learn how to treat plants accidentally sprayed with herbicide.

Accidental Herbicide Injury

The type of injury can be determined by the time symptoms begin to show. Problems that appear right after new plants begin to germinate are often the result of carry-over from previous applications, high rates of application, shallow planting and even poor timing.

Herbicide plant damage that appears on mature plants may be due to drift, misapplication, high temperatures or humidity, incorrect treatment and tank contamination. The home gardener will usually notice accidental herbicide injury on mature plants due to misapplication and timing.

Symptoms of Herbicide Injuries

The signs of injury will depend on the type of herbicide which contacted the plant. Post-emergence broadleaf herbicides are responsible for most injuries. These result in twisted leaves, cupped foliage, narrower new leaves, and roots that appear on the surface in annual plants. On ornamental grasses, these products cause yellowing and die back.

Pre-emergence controls are not as dangerous and herbicides that are applied systemically rarely result in problems unless they are over-applied. The exceptions are herbicides that have amine salt, which allows the chemical to liquefy and travel more easily through soil.

Non-selective herbicides will cause accidental herbicide injury in many instances and these controls must be applied according to directions and with caution. Symptoms of herbicide injuries from these products include yellowing in leaves, die back and general ill health in plants that might have been exposed. In some cases, fixing herbicide spray drift is possible if it is caught early enough.

How to Treat Plants Accidentally Sprayed with Herbicide

Contact non-selective herbicide injury is usually most evident in the leaves. A foliar method is used for application, which increases chances of drift. Plants accidentally exposed should have affected leaves pruned off to prevent the spread of the herbicide deep into the plant. It may also help to water the plant thoroughly to dilute the chemicals. If left untreated, the plant will eventually die.

Plants exposed to other chemical formulas may survive if you give them superior care for the next year. Keep the plant watered properly, fertilize in spring and prevent competition from weeds. If no other factors, such as disease or insects, are affecting your plant, then your leafy friend may outlive you.

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Can Your Garden Recover from Weedkiller Damage?

May 31, 2016 | HOW TO GUIDES

When it comes to weeds, they are never straight forward. They pop up uninvited all over the lawn, spreading into the tiniest crevices, leaving long, relentless roots that refuse to meet their maker. It is a force of habit to reach for the weedkiller and spray haphazardly at the offending plants, however, if used incorrectly this can lead to disastrous consequences for your lawn and flowerbeds.

If you think you miss-read the label before your last weed purge, and have been left with scorched, brown grass, and wilted plants, then it could be time to match the symptoms with a solution. But first, we have to understand the effect that your weedkiller can have on your garden.

Contact Weedkiller
Plants and grass that have been accidentally sprayed with contact weedkillers usually have a scorched appearance, or brown spots where the spray droplets landed on the leaves. Bulb foliage may emerge yellow if accidentally sprayed with contact weedkiller before it had died back in the previous year.

Hormonal Weedkillers
Hormone or growth-regulating weedkillers leave grasses unharmed, but can cause damage to broad-leaved plants. The symptoms of this include: leaves growing narrowed, or in a cup shape; twisted or distorted leaf stalks; swollen stems, galls, or warts in brassicas and other plants, and plum shaped and distorted tomatoes with hollow centres.

How to Prevent and Remedy Weedkiller Damage
Prevention is better than a cure, which is why understanding how your actions affect your garden is paramount to ensuring that you don’t accidently harm it. Here are a few points to bare in mind when safeguarding your garden against weedkiller damage.

  • Only use weedkillers in the way described on the label.
  • Wash out any sprayers or watering cans after use, and tip the rinsings on the treated area.
  • Do not add the first lawn clippings to the compost heap after using lawn weedkiller, this could contaminate the compost.
  • If treating lawns or soil, avoid stepping on the treated area, as this may spread the weedkiller into other areas of the garden.

If damage has occurred… make sure to cut back any abnormal shoots, or those that are brown. Feeding and mulching damaged plants can help them to recover, however, if your damaged plants are beyond repair do not add them to your compost heap, as they can contaminate the batch. Don’t forget, that beans, carrots, lettuce, peas, and tomatoes affected by hormonal weedkiller can still be eaten. However, brassicas (except sprouts) do not usually recover and should be destroyed.

May 31, 2016

Ortho Ground Clear Vs Roundup – Who Will Win Now

Are you having confused on what type of herbicide to use?

Did you know that two of the most popular ones are the ortho ground clear and the Roundup herbicide?

If you are having second thoughts on which to use then reading the information below about Ortho Ground Clear vs. Roundup is essential for you to be able to know which one is best for your garden.


What is Ortho Ground Clear?

via Amazon

Ortho Ground Clear is most popularly used on surfaces that are hard and have vegetations that are unwanted, including the cracks in your gravel driveways and patios.

It can kill different kinds of vegetation and can help prevent the plant from regrowing again. For people who have garden soils that are heavy clay, Ortho Ground Clear might work for more than a year.

If you leave in a place where it often rains, then reapplying this herbicide is essential. This herbicide that contains imazapyr and glyphosate will perfectly work when you apply it in temperatures that are 60 degrees Fahrenheit and above.

Typically, this herbicide is mixed and used to treat 75 square feet of area at a time.

What is Roundup?

via Amazon

Roundup, on the other hand, has the ability to kill a series of grass and weeds. The good thing about this herbicide is that it is already ready to use concentrated to ensure that the weeds are killed in between your plants.

Roundup is also useful in killing weeds before you start planting your seeds in your garden.

One of the best things about using Roundup is that it is not complicated to use. The only problem that is seen in using this herbicide is that it can damage the plants that are nearby, so extra precaution should be practiced.

Now that you have familiarized yourself with these two popular herbicides, then it would be best to start comparing the two. This will surely give you a clear idea on which one is the best to use for your garden.

Ortho Ground Clear VS. Roundup – Who Win?

Both Ortho Ground Clear and Roundup contain glyphosate which can both kill weeds that are invading your garden.

The only problem is that Ortho Ground Clear contains imazapyr, which is known as an active root herbicide. This means that using it in areas where trees and shrubs are growing is not advisable because it can kill these plants as well.

Now if you want to make sure that you are killing weeds and controlling the weed then using post emergents will do, such as the Roundup. This herbicide will control the weeds that are already existing without killing the plants around it.

The only downside is that you will need to reapply Roundup for weeds that are persistent and are difficult to get rid off.

These are the comparisons of both Ortho Ground Clear and Roundup that you should know. No matter what herbicide you choose, it would be best to know how to use them properly in your soil.

Using Ortho Ground Clear

Preparing Your Lawn

The first thing that you need to do is to remove the items in your garden including furniture and rocks.

If there are weeds and other tall grass, then cutting them short would be essential. Measuring the area that you are planning to treat is also important for you to know how much Ortho Ground Clear is needed.

Mixing the Herbicide

Using a garden sprayer or a watering can, pour a quart of Ortho Ground Clear and a gallon of water and dilute them. This mixture can help you treat 75 square feet of your lawn.

Applying the Herbicide

Treat the lawn with the use of a garden sprayer or a watering can by pouring the mixture on it. Cover the area thoroughly and make sure that there are no gaps where the weeds can start regrowing.

Once you are done, let it dry before letting anyone go near the lawn.

Ortho GroundClear Vegetation Killer Concentrate, 2-Gallon

  • Kills weeds and prevents new growth for up to 1 year
  • Kills unwanted vegetation from driveways, walkways, patios, fence rows and other areas for up to a year
  • Visible results in hours
  • Fast-acting
  • Easy to apply with a sprinkling can or a tank sprayer

Last update on 2018-06-07 – Details

Using Roundup

Protect Yourself and Other Plants

Roundup contains chemicals that are harsh and making sure that you are well protected is essential.

You can wear a long sleeved top, pants, goggles, mask, and gloves to protect yourself.

You may also want to cover up the plants in your garden just to keep them safe as well.

Mix the herbicide by adding water depending on the required amount that can be found on the label of the product that you are going to purchase. If you buy ready to use ones then adding water won’t be necessary.

Spray the mixture on the weeds and make sure that they are wet to ensure that all the parts of the weeds are killed. Results can be seen in as little as six hours after application.

SaleRoundup Weed and Grass Killer Super Concentrate, 1/2-Gallon

  • Best Roundup brand concentrate value for really widespread weed problems
  • For use in tank sprayers. For best results add 2 1/2 oz. per 1 gallon of water.
  • For use around flowers, shrubs and trees; on patios, walkways, driveways, gravel areas and mulch beds; along fences, edging and foundations; as well as large areas such as lawn replacements or garden plot preparation
  • Rainproof in 30 minutes
  • Weeds usually yellow and wilt in 2-4 days

$76.47 – $36.56 View Product

Last update on 2018-06-07 – Details

Now that you know the comparison between Ortho Ground Clear vs. Roundup and how you can use them, it is now time for you to decide which one is best for your lawn.

Herbicide is usually a concentrate of potent chemicals to kill the weeds in the vegetation area of your house. The frequently asked question of the users of herbicides is how long does it take for weed killer to work? They are afraid if the useful plants could not survive after the spray then what to do? Some want to know whether the herbicide is that much strong to kill the desired weeds or not?

Also see: How Does Weed Killer Work?

There are several factors on which the weed killer works. The first factor is climate. If you are spraying the herbicide on the plants in a moist or cold atmosphere, it will work slowly. It can also damage the nearby vegetation. When you first time spray it to the plants, it should be a warm summer day.

The roots and leaves of the plant will absorb the weed killer quicker and then remaining concentrate will evaporate in the air. It will not harm the nearby plants. The spray in a hot summer day will work efficiently. Within the next 48 hours, the weeds will start turning into yellow color. Within a week or two these unwanted plants will die eventually.

Also see: How to Make Homemade Weed Killer

The next factor is the grass killer potency. If it contains the high potency chemicals, you will see it showing the positive results within a few days. If the concentrate is not so potent, it may take one month to show its effects. In the first two to three days, they will begin twisting. It shows that the herbicide is affecting the plant. Now within two weeks the natural green color of the plants will start fading. Within a few more days, it will die.

Also see: How to Restore Grass Killed by Weed Killer

Try to spray sufficient amount on the roots and leaves. If the roots absorb the concentrate, they will start dying. Make sure the roots are not getting fresh again. If it refreshes, you will see it getting strength again. If you are using a weed killer gel instead of solution, it will stick to the unwanted plants. Within 24 hours, you will see them turning to brown and eventually die within 48 hours.

Must see this guide to dispose of weed killer.

Weed Killer – How Long Does It Take to Work?

Enough is enough – it’s time to rid your garden of weeds! You put on your gardening boots and a pair of rubber gloves, and you get to spraying. A job well done, you say, and wait for the effects to show. A few days pass and… nothing! You may be asking yourself “why aren’t the weeds dead yet”? Or perhaps “how long does weed killer take to work”?

Well, the answer differs, depending on multiple factors. However, in general, it will take about 2-4 weeks for the weeds to die out completely.

Table of Contents:

  • How do weed killers work
  • How long does weed killer take to work

So, if you:

  • Are struggling with weeds overtaking your garden;
  • Are wondering how weed killers function;
  • Want to know how long they take to work,

Then read on! This article will answer your questions.

How do weed killers work?

Herbicides are used specifically to rid your garden or crop field of weeds and unwanted vegetation, such as dandelions, moss and clovers. Most of them will either entirely destroy or severely damage the plant they’re trying to get rid of. Some weed killers target only specific weeds, while others kill everything they come in contact with.

There are several different types of herbicides and each of them works in a different way.

Types of weed killers

  • Contact. This type of herbicide is applied to living, green weeds. It gets absorbed by the plant’s leaves and is most effective when the weed is actively growing and taking in sunlight. Contact weed killers should be applied early in the day, so that they have enough time to get absorbed by the leaves before nightfall. Most useful when tackling annual weeds, this herbicide takes about 2 weeks to work.
  • Systemic. Most herbicides on the market are systemic. This kind of product can be taken in by any part of the plant – roots, leaves, etc. – and makes its way through its transport system, killing every part of the unwanted vegetation. The systemic, selective weed killer 2,4-D (for 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid) is especially effective when tackling clovers. These products are also a good choice when dealing with perennial weeds.
  • Residual. These types of weed killers, also referred to as soil acting, are only suitable for areas such as paths and patios. What they do is poison the soil, preventing any seeds from germinating and growing in it. They can stay in the ground for months, so using them in an area where you plan to grow other plants is not advisable.

Herbicides can also be one of the following two types:

  • Selective – as the name suggests, this herbicide only targets a specific kind of plant. Weed and feed products are examples of selective weed killers, getting rid of broadleaf plants without harming your lawn in the process.
  • Non-selective – the popular weed killer Roundup is an example of a non-selective herbicide. This type kills any vegetation it comes in contact with. When using this kind of weed killer, you must take great care and protect any nearby plants you wish to keep.

How long does weed killer take to work?

The amount of time herbicides take to work will vary, depending on the weeds, the type of weed killer and the conditions under which it is applied. In general, they take 2 to 4 weeks to completely rid your garden of the unwanted plants.

If using Roundup, you may notice the first signs 6 hours in, with the leaves turning yellow and wilting. However, it will still take the herbicide around 2 weeks to fully kill the weed.

To maximise its effects, you should apply weed killers under the right conditions. Avoid spraying weeds when it’s rainy – the herbicide will be washed away and you won’t get the desired results. Windy weather is also not ideal, as the weed killer can get blown onto nearby plants you may want to keep.

Have weeds attacked your garden?

Fear not! Fantastic Services is here to help! We offer a reliable garden maintenance service, including weed control. Put your mind at ease, knowing that your yard is in safe hands. The professional gardeners come equipped with all the tools and skills they need to make sure your garden is thriving. From weeding and trimming to planting new flowers, we can handle the hard work! Simply book your service using our online form!

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  • There are several types of herbicides, all serving a different purpose.
  • Systemic weed killers are the most common option.
  • In general, herbicides take about 2 to 4 weeks to fully work.
  • Take extra care when using non-selective weed killers around plants you wish to keep.


Did you find this article helpful? Do you have any further questions about weed killers? Let us know in the comments below!

Image source: / FrankHH

Posted in All About the Lawn, Garden Advice

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To be effective, how long does Glyphosate weed killer need to be applied before it rains?


“Foliar absorption of herbicides occurs in a liquid phase only; once a water droplet has dried on the leaf surface and herbicides have crystallized little to no additional absorption occurs. Therefore, any environmental condition speeding the drying of spray droplets on a leaf surface will reduce absorption. Low humidity and high winds can greatly reduce drying time, thereby allowing little time for absorption to occur. Conversely, high humidity with little wind slows the rate of drying and lengthens absorption time. Rainfall shortly after (< ½ hour) glyphosate application can wash spray droplets from the leaf surface. A foliar application should be “rain fast” once droplets have dried on the leaf surface.

Temperature, soil moisture, and solar radiation that optimize plant growth facilitate absorption and translocation of glyphosate. When photosynthetic rates are high photoassimilate produced in leaf epidermal cells is rapidly loaded into the phloem, other organic molecules like glyphosate are similarly loaded, and both are quickly translocated to sink organs. The rapid removal of glyphosate molecules from epidermal cells maintains a high concentration gradient that increases absorption rate. The time of day glyphosate is applied can also impact its efficacy. Applications made between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. tend to maximize glyphosate activity. Short-lived temperature spikes (> 90 ºF) can also enhance absorption by reducing cuticle viscosity and allowing easier passage of foliar-applied herbicides.”

From Purdue University:

“Glyphosate must penetrate the leaf surface to provide effective weed control. While absorption occurs relatively quickly, rain after an application can wash glyphosate off before it has a chance to enter the leaf. The rain-free period required to prevent reduced activity is in uenced by the susceptibility of the target weed and the glyphosate rate. Small weeds of a sensitive species will require a shorter rain-free period than large or dif cult to control weeds. A 30-minute rain-free period may be adequate under ideal conditions. When spraying larger weeds, however, several hours between application and rain may be required to avoid reduced activity. Differences in rainfastness among glyphosate products are generally small. Adding more surfactant appears to have marginal benefits on the rain-free requirement.”

I often wonder why is it that weeds have no problem at all with drought-like conditions. They don’t require a thing—not water, fertilizer or protection from pests and predators.

Weeds don’t even need soil. They’re happy to grow in cracks in the sidewalk—even asphalt.

Weeds don’t complain, don’t need to be babied and do their best work under the worst of circumstances—the hotter the better! Weeds never give up. I wish I were more like weeds.

Still, weeds are the bane of every gardener; a problem for every homeowner.

In 1970, John Franz, a chemist for Monsanto, discovered that the chemical glyphosate is a potent herbicide that kills just about every kind of plant material imaginable. In no time, the company gave its miracle weed killer the brand name Roundup.

Farmers, especially, went wild for Roundup. Just one problem: It was nearly impossible to kill the weeds without also killing their crops. So Monsanto sent its chemists back to work to develop glyphosate-resistant, or “Roundup ready crops” that have had their DNA altered (genetically modified or GMO) to allow them to be immune to glyphosate. Now farmers could spray with abandon and not worry about their crops.

To say that glyphosate, Roundup, and GMO foods have become a bit controversial would be, to put it mildly. There are some who say that glyphosate causes cancer in animals, and most likely humans, too. They insist that the side effects of long-term GMO food consumption is producing serious health risks for all living things.

Despite all of this controversy and outcry about issues surrounding Roundup and GMO crops, so far the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has found no convincing evidence to force Roundup off the market. It’s a hot-button issue, that’s for sure.

There is one provable and very compelling reason to not buy Roundup: It’s too expensive!

Even if it were proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that Roundup is safe as water, I still wouldn’t shell out the high price for the stuff. I kill weeds like crazy with kitchen pantry items that are really cheap and non-toxic: white vinegar, ordinary table salt, and dishwashing liquid.

First I will give you the ingredients, followed by two Weed Killer recipes using them:

White vinegar. Ordinary distilled white vinegar with 5% acidity is cheap and works great. If you can find a higher acidity even up to 20%, it is going to work faster, but the end results will be the same.

Table salt. Use the cheapest kind of salt you can find in the supermarket—not sea salt, rock salt, Epsom salts (not even close to table salt, trust me on that) or anything fancy. Just cheap iodized or un-iodized generic salt also known as sodium chloride (NaCl).

Dishwashing liquid. You will be using only a few drops, so the brand doesn’t matter. The purpose of the soap is to break the surface tension of the vinegar so it sticks to the weeds, forcing them to absorb it more readily.


If you have weeds in areas you want to replant, do this: Fill a good quality spray bottle or ordinary garden sprayer with white vinegar and add about one teaspoon liquid dishwashing soap like blue Dawn. Apply sprayer top and follow the instructions on the sprayer to get it ready to spray. That’s it. Seriously, it is that simple.

Pick a hot, dry day to spray weeds until saturated, and they will wilt and shrivel up within hours. Be careful to not spray anything you want to live. However, do not worry about the vinegar killing anything below the soil. Because vinegar will not harm the soil, you can safely replant the area once the weeds have died.


To kill all vegetation in walkways, driveways and other areas where you don’t want any living thing to grow again, mix two cups ordinary table salt with one gallon of white vinegar. Do this in a container that is larger than one-gallon capacity so you have room for the salt.

Apply the lid and shake to dissolve the salt. Salt dissolves more quickly in vinegar than in water, but it takes a bit of doing. It may not completely dissolve, but that’s okay. Add 1 teaspoon liquid dishwashing soap. Pour into an ordinary garden sprayer. Apply to weeds or grass on a dry, sunny day to areas you don’t want to see vegetation of any kind in the future.

The presence of salt in this recipe is what will eventually bring permanence to your weed killing. The salt will penetrate and leach into the soil. It may take several applications, but in time the presence of salt will “sterilize” the soil in this area so that nothing will grow there. Plan well before you take this semi-permanent route.

Related: Plant an Edible Garden No Matter Where You Are or What You Have

These homemade weed killer recipes are not only cheap, both are completely non-toxic to humans and animals. In fact, except for the soap (not toxic, but not very tasty), you could have fun with the family tonight when you tell them you made the salad vinaigrette using 3 parts olive oil to 1 part weed killer!

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Man Made DIY

A DIY Weed Killer That Actually Works

Spring seems to have arrived overnight, and with it comes the explosion of green as everything wakes up from its winter nap. First up? Time to fend off the weeds. . . and please don’t reach for that toxic stuff. It’s nasty for you, your yard, and everything around it. Instead, try this safer and super effective recipe.

A targeted weed killer is a great way to get a handle on those weed that popped up since you last looked. Seriously, they weren’t there yesterday and now it’s an overgrown jungle. This simple spray helps to wilt the plants, and makes them easy to pull out and remove. As a huge bonus, you don’t have to worry about keeping pets or small kids away from the area until it’s no longer a Round-Up hazmat zone. Wait for a good day of dry weather to be sure the mix can sit on the plant for a bit without getting rinsed off.

What You need:

  • 1 gallon pump sprayer ($20)
  • 1 gallon distilled white vinegar
  • 1 cup Epsom Salt
  • 1 tbsp dish soap

Mix the ingredients together thoroughly and soak the leaves and body of the weeds with an even application. Let the spray sit on the weeds until they are good and dead, then pull them out and tune up the area with a bit of mulch. I’ve found about 6 hours to 1 day is good enough for most, but a second application might be needed for the stubborn ones.

Keep in mind, that this spray is not selective. It will kill anything green you apply it to so protect the plants you want to keep. This also means that a weed killer like this shouldn’t be used on your lawn. Go for some standard spring weed and feed mix to tackle the crabgrass and dandelions.

Now that you have that yard all tuned up, let’s build something to enjoy on it. Take a look at this project to make a great lawn game in an afternoon.


  • spring
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  • lawn
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