Cycas revoluta

For an impressive dose of prehistoric drama, consider sago palm.

The Cycad genus in the Cycadaceae family includes over 100 species, with the most common being Cycas revoluta or the king sago, the main focus of this article.

Like ferns, these giant beauties have been around since before the dinosaurs, and their stunning display is truly evocative of an age long gone. In fact, they’re sometimes referred to as “living fossils,” dating back to the early Mesozoic Era without much change since then.

Dark green and lush with sturdy foliage, if you live in a warm climate zone or you’re looking for a new addition to your indoor garden, this plant is for you.

Here’s what’s to come in this article:

Let’s learn more!

Cultivation and History

While “palm” is part of their common name, sago palms are not really palms at all. They’re cycads, a group of seed plants with ancient roots related to cone-bearing conifers.

Photo by Gretchen Heber.

Other names for this type of sago palm include king sago, palm cycad, or Japanese funeral palm. Native to the southernmost island of Japan, the leaves were traditionally used in funeral arrangements in the Land of the Rising Sun.

This sago palm is about 15 years old. Photo © Ralph Barrera.

C. circinalis, or queen sago, is another common species that is native to India. It’s commonly grown in parts of Asia and Hawaii.

This is not to be confused with C. micronesica, another species that is found in Micronesia, Palau, and Guam. This species gained notoriety when it was found to be linked to Lytico-Bodig disease, which is similar to ALS. The seeds of C. micronesica were a traditional food source on Guam until the 1960s, but they contain a potentially dangerous neurotoxin and should not be consumed.

I repeat – do no eat any part of your cycads. They are ornamentals only!

Sago grows slowly when confined to a pot, and it is also a favorite choice for bonsai.

Gardeners located within or north of USDA Hardiness Zone 8a must grow these ancient wonders in pots and bring them indoors to overwinter, but those of us in zones 8a to 11b get to enjoy them in our landscapes year-round.

Male sago palm. Photo by Gretchen Heber.

When grown outdoors, C. revoluta may reach a height of 10 to 12 feet, though the ones I see in Austin are closer to about 5 feet tall. Here they are also typically allowed to fall into a spreading, half-round form, rather than the more upright, palm tree-like form that results when the lower fronds are trimmed off.

The pinnate leaves are typically about 4 to 5 feet long at maturity, reaching their greatest length when grown in partial shade. Shiny, new leaves sprout from the top of the crown in a circular pattern, located above a woody trunk.

As mentioned above, sago palms are poisonous to humans and pets, something to keep in mind if you have a dog who likes to experiment with new cuisines. Our dogs have never bothered our sagos, and the spiky leaf tips act as a deterrent as well.

Female sago.

Each sago palm is either male or female. In late spring, males may produce a 12- to 24-inch-tall cone, whereas females produce a leaf structure resembling a basket that produces ovules. The “basket” opens when the plant is ready to be fertilized by pollen from the male, carried by wind or insects.

Keep in mind that sago palms may take over a decade to reach maturity and bloom for the first time. This will only happen under ideal growing conditions, every three years or so.



C. revoluta can be propagated via division, as well as growing by seed. For the first method, you may notice new clusters forming near the base of the plant. These pups can be cut off and planted elsewhere, or shared with fellow gardeners.


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Photos © Ralph Barrera reprinted with permission. Photos by Gretchen Heber © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product images via Serendipityseed, American Plant Exchange, and 9Greenbox. Uncredited photos: . Originally published on December 2, 2017. Last updated on June 29, 2019. With additional writing and editing by Allison Sidhu.

About Gretchen Heber

A former garden editor for a daily newspaper in Austin, Texas, Gretchen Heber goes through entirely too many pruners and garden gloves in a year’s time. She’s never met a succulent she didn’t like and gets really irritated every 3-4 years when Austin actually has a freeze cold enough to kill them. To Gretchen, nothing is more rewarding than a quick dash to the garden to pluck herbs to season the evening meal. And it’s definitely time for a happy dance when she’s able to beat the squirrels to the peaches, figs, or loquats.

Cycas Revoluta

Sago palms are slow growing plants that take a fair few years (5 or more) to reach their maximum height of appoximatly 2ft, when grown indoors. A plant may only produce one leaf per year, so don’t expect lot’s of new foliage to appear during it’s growing period.

The bad news is propagation by seed will take years to produce a 2ft tall plant; however, the good news is mature plants are sold at many garden stores and they can last for years and years.

Foliage: A woody type base (called a caudex) which is the stem produces pinnate fronds (multiple leaflets on a stalk) similar to a fern plant. These stiff and kind of brittle fronds grow over a foot long in an upwards fashion then arch over.

Do take care when handling – fronds get bent quite easily and it takes a long time for new fronds to appear.

Ease of growing: The sago palm is easy enough for most growers to care for and maintain, but not quite a beginner plant. You will need to provide plenty of bright light, above average humidity levels, do not over-water and have plenty of patience with a young plant.

Ancient Ancestors

The cycads genus, which this species belongs to has an amazing history dating back before dinosaurs roamed the earth. The discovery of fossils from cycads provides evidence of the existence of their ancestors dating back to over 300 million years ago.

The sago palm is best suited for growing in a bright conservatory, but it can also be placed in other rooms where there is enough light and room for the wide fronds.

Pets: This plant is poisonous and one you really don’t want cats or dogs grazing on. If ingested some of the possible reactions can be extreme including death, according to the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) and other sources. One problem is the leaflets are quite slim which does attract the attention of cats, so cat owners may not want to risk having one of these plants in a home.

Sago palm care is easy and one reason why sago plants are excellent plants for inexperienced gardeners.

The sago grows primarily in the landscape across the southern states but used as an indoor house plant.

Commonly called the “sago palm” or “king sago palm.” They resemble a palm – like the ponytail palm – but they are not a “cycad palm” or other any other palm just a cycad (Cycas revoluta) from the family Cycadaceae.

The sago palm plant produces cones and bears attractive, palm-like feathery foliage making it very similar looking to palms, and tree ferns.

Called a prehistoric plant, the sago provides strong natural defenses against predators and adapts to a wide variety of conditions.

Take care if children or pets like dogs tamper with the plant as the leaves are toxic if ingested. Make sure you have the animal poison control center number handy.

General Sago Palm Care

While cycads generally prefer very bright light, like the zeezee plant they will tolerate low light. They prefer staying on the dry side as excessive watering leads to rotting plant roots.

Indoors or out, sago palms plants prefer a light, well-drained soil with ample sun.

With minimal care, these rugged plants can last a lifetime and then some.

Slow-growing and long-lived your sago palm may not bloom (produce a cone) in the first 15 years of its life or ever at all.

The revoluta cycad periodically produces a lovely new flush of foliage called “break” which compensates for its slow-growing habit.

These tender new leaves emerge all at once in a crowning or circular pattern or feather-like rosette.

Several weeks later, the leaves become harder, and stiffer. When sago palms reach the reproductive stage, the semi-glossy green leaves have strongly recurved edges.

Potted sago plant growing outdoors resting on an unusual garden stone pattern

Keeping Your Potted Sago Palm Healthy

Grown outdoors, the sago palm is hardy in USDA zones 8b – 11; however, they make ideal indoor potted ornamental plants as well as sago bonsai plants and can stay indoors in any region all year round.

Check out these tips to successfully care for Cycad as potted indoor houseplants.

  • Keep plants in an area that gets plenty of bright indirect sunlight. The temperature should remain around 75° degrees Fahrenheit throughout the day and between 65° and 75° overnight.
  • Protect the cycad plant from hot or cold drafts. Don’t place it too close to a window or a cooling or heating vent. Place the plant between five and eight feet away from very sunny windows. This will protect it from excessive, burning sunlight.
  • Place plants out of high traffic areas to protect its leaves from breakage.
  • Turn the plant a quarter turn every couple of weeks throughout the year except for in the spring. In the springtime when new leaves begin to grow, simply let the plant sit.
  • Check the soil moisture in the pot once a week by poking your finger into the top two or three inches. If the soil is dry, water the plant thoroughly. If it is still moist wait a few days and check again.
  • Empty the drip tray under your plant after you finish watering. Don’t allow it to stand in water because this will cause root rot.
  • Fertilize your plant when watering using an 18-6-18 water-soluble plant food. Mix one teaspoon of fertilizer into a gallon of water for proper dilution during the growing season. Start in the springtime when you see new growth. Stop fertilizing in mid-fall, and do not fertilize throughout the winter.
  • Check plants once a month and trim any yellowing or dead leaves and dust the fronds with a soft cloth. When you prune dead growth, be sure to prune it close to the trunk. Use a sharp, clean set of pruning shears.
  • In the springtime when new growth appears, check to see if the plant is root bound. If the plant and roots seem crowded in its current container, you will want to consider transplanting sago palms. Select a pot two inches larger than the pot your plant currently grows in. It goes without saying that it must have good drainage holes in the bottom.

How To Repot Your Sago Palm

Once you select a new pot, place a couple of inches of gravel in the bottom. This facilitates good drainage and keeps the soil from sifting through the holes. Be sure to have plenty of light, well-draining potting soil on hand.

  • Carefully remove the plant and root ball from its existing pot. You may need to loosen it a bit by sliding a spade or knife blade between the edges of the soil and the sides of the container. Once loosened, slide the plant out of the container. Don’t pull the plant out.
  • Lay the plant on a base of newspaper and massage the root ball to spread and open the roots.
  • Put enough potting soil into the pot to bring the top of the root ball to within a couple of inches of the top of the pot. Set the root ball into the pot and fill in the space around it with fresh potting soil.
  • Tamp the potting soil down firmly and add more potting soil until you fill the pot to a level even with the top of the root ball. Water the plant thoroughly, and pour the water out of the drainage saucer when done.

Caring For Cycas Revoluta Outdoors

Of course, if you like, set your potted Cycas outdoors in a sheltered area during temperate times of the year. In USDA hardiness zones 8b-11, the Sago palms can live outdoors year-round.

In an outdoor setting, planted in the ground after many years plants can grow to a height of 10′ feet tall!

Related Reading:

  • Pygmy Date Palm Care – Tips On Growing Phoenix Roebelenii

Picking The Right Spot

Cycas revoluta loves bright light and full direct sunlight, but it’s possible to have too much of a good thing.

In areas with very hot, punishing direct sunlight it’s best to place your plant in an area that gets good morning sun and light afternoon shade.

As always sago palms need an area with good drainage. Just as with a potted sago, soggy soil can cause root rot.

Light, airy outdoor soil amended with compost or other organic matter works best.

When first planted, keep your sago palm fairly well watered. Water deeply about once a week. Be sure to moisten the top foot of soil.

Once your plant is established, it will require limited watering even in direct sunlight. Watch for signs of distress and water deeply if you begin to see wilt.

Sago palm planted outdoors in the landscape – front and left landscape lighting installed to illuminate the plant at night

Sago Palm Fertilizer – Once A Year

Outdoors, plants will require less fertilizer. Apply a balanced (10-10-10) slow-release fertilizer or a palm fertilizer in the springtime.

Apply it around the base of the plant, approximately eight inches away from the trunk. Water thoroughly after application.

Annual fertilizing should be enough, but unusual yellowing of the leaves may indicate your sago suffers a magnesium, potassium or other nutrient deficiency.

In this case, apply a chelated iron or Epsom salt spray to the leaves to the foliage. This will not undo yellowing of older foliage, but as new leaves grow, they should be a nice healthy shade of green.

How To Trim Sago Palms

Naturally, you will want to trim off yellow leaves as described above. If your plant produces a cone, you will eventually want to remove it as it begins to break apart.

Do this carefully and avoid damaging the growing point underneath it.

Pests And Problems

Indoors or out, Sago palms are generally problem free. However, mealybug does attack them. But the worst pests especially outdoors on sago plants is plant scale bugs and particularly Asian cycad insect scale.

Read this article on how one nurseryman uses coffee grounds for pest control on Asian scale bugs and other cycad pests.

As for Sago diseases, the only problems I’ve experienced with a fungus or rot started with a wound to the trunk.

Grow Sago Plants – Propagating

sago palm female plant and the “seed cone”

Cycads propagate in several ways, none of them are fast and easy. Sago palms have male and female plants.

The male cone produces pollen which fertilizes the female cone where the seeds are then produced.

How To Plant Sago Palm Seeds

Sow ripe seeds in a shallow flat or pot with a soil mixture containing lots of sand.

Keep temperatures in the high 70’s. Months can pass before tiny shoots begin to show, and another 3-6 months or more before seedlings can be moved or repotted.

Side Shoots Sago Bulbs or Pups

Old mature plants sometimes develop bulbs or side shoots on the stem. These bulbs can be cut off and rooted. Remove leaves from the side shoots as they pull lots of moisture.

Stick the “bulbs” in soil (I like pure sand) keeping the mixture on the dry side until new roots form over a few months.

Section Of Trunk

Just like the “bulbs” or side shoots, sections of sago trunks can be planted. This is often done with “collected” plants.

No matter what propagation method selected, it is a time-consuming, slow process and for many difficult.

Seed germination takes many months, growing them to size takes many years.

Collecting And Moving Sago Palm Cycas Revoluta

Growers collect old “stumps” since these slow growing large sago palm specimens can be regrown.

The stumps pictured are decades old and collecting stumps, digging and moving cycads can be a very taxing task.

The long and fibrous roots of revoluta can cause trouble.

In fact, some grounds, walls, and concrete pavements crack due to the underrated power of the intertwining strands of roots that comprise the root system.

Also, the plants or “stumps” can become damaged. Take care when collecting them.

How To Care For Sago Palms In The Winter

If your location endures short cold snaps, your plant will probably not suffer much harm. These tough plants can withstand very low temperatures (e.g. 15 degrees Fahrenheit) for short periods of time as long as you provide with some protection.

Steps For Winterization

In areas where the temperature becomes cold but not freezing, cut back on your watering in the wintertime and allow the plant to go semi-dormant.

Late in the fall, prune off dead growth and mulch heavily (approximately three inches) around the roots to protect them and conserve moisture throughout the winter.

During the winter months, when you expect freezing temperatures, provide your plant with protection by covering it with a blanket or burlap bag to prevent freezing.

Uncover it when temperatures rise above the freezing point.

Even with this care, your cycad will probably suffer some dead leaves through the wintertime. When spring arrives, cut back any dead foliage, fertilize and get ready for new growth.

In areas that remain very cold for extended periods of time, you will need to bring your potted sago palm indoors for the winter.

Remember, overwintering a sago is different than keeping a houseplant year round.

When overwintering, you want to keep the plant in a cool area with indirect light.

Water sparingly as the plant will go into a dormant state throughout the winter months. Don’t fertilize during this time.

Less Is More

Cycas revoluta should be a fairly foolproof type of plant for most gardener’s. Unfortunately, many people simply overdo when it comes to care.

Extremes of temperature, excessive watering, and too much sun are enemies of cycads.

If you can remember to provide steady temperatures, light watering and moderate sunlight, you can look forward to enjoying success with Sago palms.

Common Maladies of Revoluta Cycads

Because of its strong natural defenses, these are fairly trouble free plants. If you provide ample light, well-drained soil, light watering, occasional fertilizing and a new pot every couple of years your plant should go along happily for a very long time.

Of course, some problems may arise. One of the most common is the sago palm turning yellow. As with any other type of plant or tree, when leaves become old they turn yellow, then brown before falling off.

To avoid a scruffy appearance, trim the leaves or fronds back to the base when they begin to yellow. This will make room for fresh new leaves.

If trimming does not resolve this problem, or if yellowing appears on new growth, it may be an indication of some other problem, such as:

  • Fertilize more frequently. Be certain you fertilize using the right amount of a balanced fertilizer.
  • Look for a pest infestation (e.g. scale bugs). If you find pests on your sago, pick them off my hand or address it using a natural sprays of neem insecticide oils or beneficial insects.
  • Check to see if you’re watering too much, or the soil does not have efficient drainage. If this is the case, you may need to repot your plant, if outdoors, amend the soil around it.

New growth on neatly trimmed trunks growing outdoors in the landscape – Japanese sago palm

Growing Sago Palm In The Landscape

In the landscape, the sago provides an “Oriental Influence”. Here is how one designer described using the sago revoluta in their landscape plan…

The Japanese lantern mounted on a pedestal, with pleasing freeform lines, was carved from lavarock (feather stone one of the many types of landscaping rocks available). Dramatic growing Cycas revoluta (Japanese sago palm) among coral boulders makes an interesting background.

Sago Palm Buying Tips

You’ll find the king sago palm for sale in many big box garden centers being sold as a “dwarf palm.” Since sago palms do not have a real “season,” purchase them at any time of the year. When buying a Sago palm look for foliage with clean undamaged leaves and dark green foliage.

Some stores may offer for sale potted sago in 3-gallon pots.

Larger sago palms used and planted in the landscape are available from landscapers. The plants are heavy and difficult for the average homeowner to handle.

When buying a Sago palm look for foliage with clean undamaged leaves and dark green foliage.

In the landscape or as a houseplant the easy to grow Sago Palm is a versatile addition.

Images: New Leaves | Flower | Potted

How To Care For Sago Palms

The sago palm (Cycas revoluta) is a popular houseplant known for its feathery foliage and ease of care. In fact, this is a great plant for beginners and makes an interesting addition to nearly any room. It can even be grown outdoors. While the name might imply that it is a palm, this plant is actually considered a cycad, one of the oldest groups of plants dating back to prehistoric times — hence the plant’s hardiness.

How to Care for Sago Palms

Sago palms are easy to care for but do require special needs, such as bright light, although they will tolerate low-light conditions. What they will not tolerate, however, is too much moisture. Sago palms prefer to be situated in well-drained soil, and like other cycad plants, they do not respond well to overwatering. In fact, too much water can quickly lead to root rot and eventual death. Therefore, it’s best to allow the plant to dry out some between waterings.

Sago palm plants also require regular fertilizing monthly to ensure vigorous health and encourage sago palm blooms. However, these plants might take 15 years before they bloom in containers (if at all), at which time the sago palm blooms only about every third year (on average). This often takes place in late spring.

Problems with Sago Palms

While sago palms, for the most part, are problem-free plants, you may on occasion encounter problems with sago palms. One of the most common complaints is sago palm yellowing. However, as is the case with most cycads, this is a normal reaction as the plant conserves nutrients — with older leaves turning yellow and then brown.

On the other hand, if sago palm yellowing occurs with new growth, this could signal a nutrient deficiency. Insects can be another factor, as these plants are well known for harboring pests like scale bugs. Newly planted sago palms that suffer from yellowing may be the result of improper planting or poor drainage.

How to Treat Sick Sago Palms

Once you have determined the cause of sago palm yellowing, you’ll need to know how to treat sick sago palms effectively. For nutritional deficiencies, try feeding sago palms houseplant fertilizer regularly, about once a month. Regular balanced fertilizer is important for healthy maintenance of sago palms.

If scale infestations are a problem, try using the tips found in the following article: How to Control Plant Scale. You could also try hand picking them off or placing them outdoors to allow their natural predators to help eliminate the problem.

When problems with sago palms are due to improper planting or poor drainage, you’ll need to repot the planting as soon as possible in suitable soil, not too deep, and with adequate drainage available.

DISCLAIMER: It should be noted that all parts of this plant are considered toxic to both humans and pets if ingested, so caution should be taken if you are growing sago palms around small children and pets (specifically cats and dogs).

Sago Palm

Sago Palm

The sago palm may look like a tiny palm tree with its glossy, stiff fronds, but it is not a palm tree at all. Sago palms are cycads, one of the most ancient of plants that has been around since prehistoric times. As a houseplant, it is easy to grow indoors, but be very careful because the sago palm is poisonous.

genus name
  • Cycas revoluta
  • Part Sun,
  • Sun
plant type
  • Houseplant,
  • Shrub
  • 3 to 8 feet,
  • 8 to 20 feet
  • From 2 to 12 feet
foliage color
  • Blue/Green
problem solvers
  • Drought Tolerant
special features
  • Good for Containers
  • 8,
  • 9,
  • 10,
  • 11
  • Division,
  • Seed

Prehistoric Plants

With the ability to live for hundreds of years, the sago palm makes a rugged houseplant. It is extremely slow-growing, sometimes putting out just one set of new leaves per year—or sometimes not that often. When plants do put out new growth, it is generally born in one symmetrical ring of leaves that emerges from the tip in an attractive bronze color. New leaves are quite soft when they emerge, but as they expand and age they take on their signature stiff, glossy leaves.

The way these plants reproduce is another relic of their prehistoric nature. Unlike many plants, they do not flower but create large, cone-like structures instead. Each plant may be female or male, and the cones are born are on each plant. It can take fifteen years or more for a plant to produce cones. In order to pollinate, both a male and female plant is needed nearby.

These are the perfect houseplants for the forgetful gardener.

Sago Palm Care Must-Knows

Sago palms are tropical plants often grown as houseplants because indoor climates typically resemble the tropical climates they are used to. Sago palms do well in containers because they like well-drained soil. One of the surest ways to kill a sago palm is to overwater it. Although they don’t like being overly moist, they do appreciate consistent moisture and humidity. If they are allowed to dry out too often, the tips of the foliage may become brown and have some dieback.

Sago palms appreciate bright, indirect light but can burn in too much direct sun in the summer. This makes them a perfect plant for a sunny windowsill in a house setting. They also make great container plants outdoors as long as some shelter from direct sun is provided. While they can take some shade, too much shade ups the risk of rot and causes plants to have sparser foliage. Sago palms also appreciate humidity, so if plants seem to struggle indoors, try placing them over a humidity tray to create a more amenable environment.

Sago palms are generally low-maintenance and pest-free, but a common issue is scale, a problematic pest seen growing along leaves. Scale are white or brown and generally do not move. Scale can be tricky to control as they have a hard, waxy coating that protects them from most insecticide sprays. The best way to control scale is with a systemic insecticide. Leaves of sago palm are also susceptible to fungal rot, which shows up as brown spots on the leaves. While this will not kill your plant, it is unsightly. Removal of affected foliage is the best way to eliminate the fungus.

Be aware of these poisonous houseplants.

More Varieties of Sago Palm

Queen sago palm

Image zoom

Cycas rumphii is more treelike than king sago palm. It grows 15 feet tall and 12 feet wide with a swollen trunk 18 inches in diameter. Male plants may form side branches on the upper trunk or from the base. It is less hardy than king sago, growing in Zones 9-11.

King sago palm

Image zoom

Cycas revoluta is the most common species. It is relatively small, growing 8 feet tall and wide. Slow-growing sago palm grows best in well-drained soil and is drought tolerant. Sago palm makes a stately indoor plant in a bright spot. Zones 8-11

Sago ‘Palm’ care and cultivation

These three plants are probably close to one hundred years old if not more

The leaves of the Cycas revoluta are deep, glossy green and nearly plastic-like in texture, growing up to three to four feet in length (in very old and shaded specimens). Plants grown in deep shade can develop leaves even longer than that. The leaflets are needle-like and reminiscent of their pine-needle forming relatives, the conifers. However Cycas needles have a distinctive midrib. These leaflets arise off either side of the rachis at a distinct ‘V’ angle in cross section as well as a ‘V’ when looking down at the leaf. The leaflets themselves also have a bit of an arch to them as they bend slightly back towards the plant near the tips- this is an example of a revolute leaf shape (hence the name ‘revoluta’). New leaves that are just flushing from the center are pale green, soft and slight fuzzy. The leaves are very delicate at this phase and should not be handled or they may break off easily or grow into deformed shape. As leaves age, they yellow and eventually turn brown, dry and may fall off given time. Most trim them off at this point, however. Old Sago Palms have very rough stems armed with sharp leaf bases (though most eventually fall off). The base of each cycad leaf has somewhat shortened leaflets that are extremely sharp and stiff making their handling without gloves a bit risky and uncomfortable.

Cycas revoluta leaves from above (left) and from the end of the leaf, showing the subtle ‘V’ of the leaflets coming off the rachis (midrib of the leaf) on right

closer shots of the leaf of a Sago Palm (left or above) and even closer of the needle-like tips of the leaflets and grooves down their centers (right or below)

As one gets close to the leaf bases, the leaflets get stiffer, shorter and sharper, making pruning these leaves a hazard. One can also see the typical short spines at the very bottom of the leaves seen on most Cycas species. These spines are also very sharp

above photos show progress of new leaves

Care of Plants in the ground

In many climates throughout the southern US Cycas revolutas can be grown in the ground. Well draining soil is recommended, but these plants are fairly tolerant of clay soils as well and seem to adapt pretty well to many different soil types. Temperatures below 15F briefly can be damaging to the leaves, and below 10F to the stem as well. If exposed to such low temps for longer periods of time, the stem may be permanently damaged. Temperatures over 110F for a long period can damage the stem as well, and hot, dry sun exposure will sunburn the leaves (making them unsightly, but will do little damage to the health of the plant).

Growing in the ground in Fullerton, California, and in the snow in Seattle, Washington (right or lower photo by cazieman)

Watering newly planted plants with little or no root damage should be done immediately after planting and at least weekly as long as soils are fairly well draining. Once established, watering can be more or less often depending on the weather and how fast you want your plant to grow. These plants are fairly drought tolerant once established and can go for months without water unless soils are very sandy and/or temperatures are hot and dry. Watering frequently in cold weather while growing in poorly draining soils can sometimes lead to root rot, but this is more of a concern with young plants than older, well established ones.

Trimming off yellowy, older leaves as well as the dried, dead ones is recommended to keep plants looking healthy. Trimming all leaves off plants may be necessary at times if plant got too dried out, or had a bad attack of scale, or for any other situation in which all the leaves died for some reason. Removing all leaves from a well established or larger plant rarely seems to have an effect on the overall health of the plant. Even young plants usually tolerate leaf loss, but it sets them back more. Removing leaves from plants suffering from nutritional deficiencies is not recommended, however, as this may worsen the plant’s overall health.

Plant I dug and and moved to my yard about four and a half feet tall… I cut off all the leaves and they regrew eighteen months later.

When planting a Cycas revoluta in your garden, it is best to select a spot where water does not collect (do not plant in a ditch). If you live in a climate that is arid and hot, protection from afternoon shade is best. However, plants growing in deep shade will get etiolated and weakened eventually and may be prone to rot so generally as much light as your climate will allow is best. Here in California most Sago Palms do fine planted in full sun, though those planted inland can get a bit yellowy in late summers from sun damage to the leaves. Plant thinking of the future as these can grow to be fairly wide (so not right next to a high traffic area). They can get tall, too, but generally not too tall in one’s lifetime. I have seen some Cycas revolutas in Los Angeles over fifteen feet tall but I think those plants are well over one hundred years old.

When putting a plant in the ground it is best to plant at the same level the plant was in the pot or box. There is no reason to put the plant in more deeply and this can end up allowing the caudex to rot. There are many cycads with subterranean caudeces, but this is not one of them. There is little unique to planting Sago Palms. Plant as you would most other plants in the ground, digging a hole larger and deeper than the pot. Plants that have been kept in a pot for a long time tend to be somewhat root bound, so care should be taken to remove the pot without tearing off too many roots. Root-bound plants however, plant fairly easily with minimal setback normally.

Planting large plants can take multiple people as these can get well over a thousand pounds. I have planted a few large plants that weighed several hundred but I have no personal experience moving box specimens (usually a crane is involved). The larger the plant, the more careful one has to be not to damage the delicate stems. A cracked stem can mean death of the whole plant, so these need to be moved with some support and gently. Minor cracks or damage to stems will usually result in a leaking of a self-sealant these plants naturally produce (a clearish gel-like matieral).

moving and planting this huge boxed specimen will take help and possibly a crane to do it successfully. Right or lower photo shows goo that comes out after cutting or injuring a Sago Palm- sort of a self sealant material.

Root damage in Sago Palms is less of a concern, but the less root damage the better. However cutting all the roots is likely to end in death of the plant. If one is moving a smaller plant and cuts or damages a root, it is best to treat the cut end with rooting hormone and/or some antifungal goo or sealant to protect the surface from fungal infection. These plants should probably not be watered right away, either. Large plants can easily survive for many weeks without being watered and this may give them time to heal over their root injuries.

When moving larger plants, one must be careful not to get injured. Sago Palms have lots of sharp parts. For convenience sake, I usually cut off all leaves before trying to move one of these, though this decreases the plants ornamental appeal for many months or even years, so avoid this if you are doing some professional landscaping. The trunk can also do quite a bit of damage, too, so one should wear long sleeves as well as gloves.

Some plants experience set back after being moved about and may not put out a new set of leaves for over a year (I had one that took two and half years to start growing again, but it is fine). The less root damage, the less set back.

Care of plants in pots

Cycas revolutas perform very well in pots and since they are so slow growing, they do not need to be potted up very often. The soil ingredients of potted plants are much more important than they are in garden-planted plants. Just because these cycads will tolerate somewhat poorly draining soils, or even sandy soils in the garden does not mean they will do well in the same soils in pots. Potted soil should be fairly rich, well draining (but not too well draining or plants desiccate easily) and should have either some slow release fertilizer, or you will need to be fertilizing these plants regularly (2-3x a year outdoors and maybe yearly or less indoors).

My own sun room plant happily living in a small pot

Though these tend to be relatively decent indoor plants, they do need a lot of light (the more the better, though full sun through a window can be a bit harsh). Plants grown in darker rooms develop long, weak leaves and are more prone to rot if even slightly overwatered. As slow growing as these plants are, they are even more so indoors. So plants seem to never outgrow their pots. One must make an effort then to change the soil every two to four years and leach it out every 4-6 months or too much salts will accumulate and damage the roots. Fertilizing should be yearly or less for most indoor plants.

This indoor plant is in too low a light evidenced by the bizarre, etiolated new leaves coming out two to three times as long as the pre-existing leaves (photo by bootes)

Root binding is not a huge concern with most cycads, but it does slow their growth down significantly (which may be a good thing for a potted plant). However, cycads do not like being root bound as much as most commonly grown potted palms do, so eventually one will need to pot their Sago Palm up a size or two (palms seem to be happy in most pots until they get so root bound there is either no soil in them, or they break the pot apart).

Bonsai Care

These plants can do very well in surprisingly small pots, though one either has to grow them into that size or root prune them carefully to fit them in such shallow pots. Once they are set up, soil should be kept fairly moist. Bonsai plants do not tolerate getting too dry, and like all plants used for bonsai, desiccation is the most common reason for failure. Even this species, which is relatively drought tolerant, can easily die if let dry out too long. Humidity also can be helpful for bonsais though it seems to matter little for Cycas revolutas grown in normal pots or in the ground. Misting regularly can be helpful as can a catch basin below the pot (aka humidity tray). While one can get away with rarely fertilizing in ground plants (except in particularly sandy or deficient soils commonly found on the east coast), or yearly in most potted plants, these should be fertilized four to five times a year with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Prune old leaves after each new flush.

Nice bonsai Cycas revoluta at plant show

Sago Palm propagation

Cycas revolutas can be reproduced in several ways. The easiest is just to take the suckers/offsets and root them. This gives one a huge head start over growing cycads from seed and it also gives one a good idea what sex of baby cycad they have (as long as the adult has coned at this point). Offsets can be removed from along the base with either a sharp trowel or some sort of garden knife. Even if you don’t want more cycads, removing offsets will keep your plant growing faster and looking more elegant. The larger the offset, the more easily it will root (large ones may have some roots of their own already). Very old plants may start offsetting along the trunk. One may not have the luxury of waiting for these to get really large as they may start to form a branch and then your cycad may become huge and ungainly. But super small offsets from trunks can be a bit tricky to root. Applying rooting hormone to these smaller offsets and letting them ‘dry out’ a week or so will make them less like to rot in a rooting medium (usually perlite or pumice and something else- sphagnum moss, sterile potting soil, sandy mix etc.). Most offsets will root within six to twelve months. Check periodically for softness (NOT a good sign). Immediately remove rotting or soft offsets to keep the fungus from getting to the other plantlets.

Plant showing suckers around base (left or above) and much older plant with trunk covered in small suckers (right or below)

Growing cycads from seeds is a bit more fun but this takes a lot longer and requires two different sexed plants. If you only have one plant, you will not get viable seed (seed from a female plant without a male around will never germinate). But if you happen to have many maturing plants, chances are you will have at least one male and female in the group. Thankfully most Cycas revolutas cone about the same time of year (mid to late spring). However, if you have a male cone and no females are ready, you can store the pollen in small paper envelopes in the freezer for years and it will usually remain viable. By the same token you can get pollen from someone else’s plant this way if you only have a female.

mature male and female cones at the same time late spring, Los Angeles (male plant in front and female in back)

Male and female cones are easily to tell apart- more so than with most other genera of cycad. Cycas species have unique female cones that are often erroneously referred to as ‘flowers’ since they are large mound-like structures with many ‘petal-like’ parts throughout the mound. No other genus of cycad has female cones like these. The male cone is a taller, slenderer structure that looks a lot like a huge version of a cone one might encounter on many different kinds of conifer.

Male plant on left or above and female on right or below

early male cone on left or above and mature on right or below (right photo Thaumaturgist)

early female cone (left or above) and open, receptive female cone (right or below)

Male cones mature to the point where they start to open up (you can see the spaces between each scale). This is a mature cone and pollen can be obtained from it by cutting it off at the base and shaking it either over a ready female cone, or over a piece of paper. Then the pollen can either be stored or taken over to the female cone and dropped on it when it’s ready and open, too. Female cones develop from relatively smooth looking mounds to spikey, flower-like structures. To improve the chances of fertilization shaking some pollen on the open female cone should be done over several days. The natural pollinators for Cycas revolutas do not exist in the US, but sometimes ants or even wind can do the job accidentally, so even if one does not actively pollinate a female, a few fertilized seeds may grow as long as one has both a male and female coning at the same time in proximity.

one method that seems to work pretty well, particularly with Cycas species, is to cut off the open, pollen-producing male cone on top of the open, receptive female cone and let the pollen fall off where it may.

Seeds will turn from yellow to orange (even if unfertilized) over the summer and eventually develop to the size of a somewhat flattened ping-pong ball by winter time. By the end of winter, the seeds will be as large as they are going to get and should be harvested. Usually ripe seed grows larger than unfertilized seed and it also should sink in water (unfertilized seed usually floats).

looking for seed in a fertilized female cone (left or above) viewing the early seed formation (right or below)

seed turning orange (left or above photo ginger749) Old seed that was not fertilized and a new flush of leaves on top (right or below)

fertile seed developing (left or above) and almost ripe (right or below)

Seeds need to be cleaned (the orange fruit should be removed), and then dried for a few days. You can either plant the seed now or store a few months in a cool dry place. But then you will need to soak it a few days before planting it.

ripe seed and unfertile seed (left or above); cleaned seed (or partially cleaned above) right pr below photo htop

Some grow seeds in large community pots with very well draining but moisture retained medium, deep enough to allow good root formation. Others grow their seed in warm humid greenhouses on top of a layer of pure pumice until the seeds send a root down a few inches, and then move them to individual pots (this is particularly done with more expensive, delicate and rare species). If you are going to use the community pot of flat technique, it is easiest to plant the seeds about half way to ¾ way into the soil on their sides (flattish sides up and down, not with one of the narrow sides shoved straight into the soil).

Do not try to grow seeds in full sun as they will dry out too easily or the seedlings will fry. Sago Palm seeds and seedlings do not necessarily need a greenhouse to be grown in and extra heat does not seem to be necessary to grow this species… but it can help, particularly if you are growing these in winter in a cold climate. Keep soil moist the first year.


Like all cycads (as far as I know), Cycas revolutas are toxic. Basically all parts are toxic, though the fruits seem to be more toxic than the rest of the plant. This might surprise some since ‘sago’ is an edible starch extracted from the trunk of Sago Palms (as it is from many ‘real’ palms as well). Though historically a cheap source of sago, there have been several methods adopted in processing this sago to make it less toxic. However, eating sago from Cycas revolutas (and many other species of cycad) have still been associated with many cases of human poisoning.

From a veterinary point of view, Cycas revolutas are one of the most significant sources of pet poisonings in the US (and perhaps around the world). The reason for this is not only the very toxic substance (Cycasin) present in most parts of the plant, but also the Sago Palms’ unusual lack of a bitter or bad taste, so characteristic to most of the world’s toxic plants species. There are at least a dozen more toxic commonly grown garden plants than Cycas revoluta, and long lists of many hundreds more toxic plants found in many gardens throughout the world, but all of these other plants (with a few exceptions) taste terrible and are only eaten by the most determined pets in large enough quantities to result in significant poisoning. And thanks to this plants’ rising popularity and ubiquitous presence in nearly all nurseries, pet cycad poisonings are on the rise. This plant is probably associated with a higher percentage of pet dog fatalaties than from any other toxic plant ingestion. So if you have curious pets (dogs primarily) or young children for that matter, please be very careful with exposure to these household members with this plant (and all other cycads as well).


Poorly draining soils can lead to root rot (or even rotting of the lower part of the trunk). This is not a common occurrence in planted Sago Palms unless there have been climatic extremes beyond what is recommended, or the plants are planted in swamps. These are pretty tolerant of wet, sloggy soils or they would not do so well in California clay. This is more likely a problem in pots. If noticed early enough, one might be able to save the plant by removing the roots from the pot and cutting off any thing rotten, treating the cut ends with fungicide and rooting hormone, and letting the plant dry out for a week or two on a dry table before replanting. I have saved many myself this way. However, once the stems starts to rot, there is little turning back unless one does an extreme surgery and removes all the soft and necrotic stem tissue and has a lot of patience (hard to get these to recover completely).

Crown rot from overhead watering is a fairly common problem in shade-grown plants. It is far better to water most palms and cycads with drip or low emitters that do not touch the sensitive growth centers of these plants, especially in cool or cold weather and in shade. If caught early enough and the rotting tissue removed and treated with antifungals, some plants will recover. However, they may set back for a very long time, and start growing abnormally from that spot (eg. branching).

Desiccation is also reversible if one gets the plant watered at the earliest symptoms (usually wilting or loss of all the leaves). Desiccated plants have to be coddled for a while as often there has been significant root necrosis and overwatering at this time will be far less tolerated.

Nutritional problems are pretty rare on the west coast, but in the sandier soils of the east coast, Magnesium and Nitrogen deficiencies can be fairly common. Nutritional problems are not uncommon in potted plants, either. These are usually evident by yellowing of new leaves or patchy leaf necrosis. Frizzle top is a specific disease resulting in the new leaves being frizzled and brittle and is caused by Manganese deficiency. Note that yellowing of leaves is not a very specific symptom however and many things from overwatering to too little or too much light can also cause a variety of yellowing of the leaves. Usually all deficiencies can be fixed with adding of some iron sulfate and a good, well balanced fertilizer. For those plants growing in sandy soils, this may have to be a monthly routine.

frizzle top

Sometimes OVER-nutrition can be a problem (excessive fertilizer or fertilizer burn), usually resulting in the tips of the leaves turning brown (or death of the plant in severe cases). I have found most cycads to be fairly resistant to fertilizer burn, at least compared to true palms, but it can still happen so careful.

Cycads are pretty tough and not very tasty plants, but they still have their share of pests and parasites. The most important one is probably the Asian scale (aka Aulacapsis Scale), which is quickly becoming a widespread problem even on the west coast of the US where it was not seen until recently. Most scales are more annoying than anything else can be easily killed with most plant pesticides (though the scale itself remains even after death- needs to be wiped off by hand then). But Asian scale can quickly overwhelm a plant and even kill them. To treat this, most recommend removing all the leaves and retreating with some good pesticides. Often all the Cycas species in a collection will need to be treated to avoid reinfestation.

snow- like material on cycad leaf- scale (left); scale damage on this rare form of Cycas revoluta with forked leaflets (right)

However spider mites and mealy bugs can also be problematic for Cycas revolutas, particularly those grown indoors are in deep shade. Shade is the mealy bug’s friend and they take advantage of lack of sunlight in many ornamental plants. These bugs particularly like new growth and can permanently damage or kill the new leaves. Spider mites are primarily and indoor or greenhouse problem and love plants growing where there is no air flow. Spider mites leave a fine webbing on the underside of the leaflets and a yellowing to spotting on top. Treat routinely with miticide and increase air flow from now on.

Sooty mold is not really a disease, but an annoying condition in which the leaves are coated with a dark, unattractive mold that grows on the materials oozed from insects that are problematic (primarily mealy bugs in the case of Cycas revoluta). The mealy bugs are in turn brought to these plants by ants. So ultimately, if one wants to get rid of sooty mold, one needs to control ant infestations. Cleaning off sooty mold requires some detergents usually as it is held in place by some really sticky stuff, and just wiping it off is not always that easy.

However, in general, these plants are pretty problem free and among the easiest of the ornamentals to grow and keep looking perfect, even in marginal climates.

For more on the care and cultivation of Cycas revolutas see the following links:

For more information on cycads in general, see these links:

Fact sheet: Sago Palm

Family: Cycadaceae, cycad family.

Genus: Cycas stems from the Greek name cyca, which means “palm.” Cycas are gymnosperms and, though palm-like, they are unrelated to true palms, which are actually angiosperms (flowering plants).

Species: The species name revoluta stems from the Latin word revolut, which means “rolled back.” The name refers to the leaflets of the sago palm, which curl under.

Common Names: Sago Palm, King Sago Palm, Japanese Sago Palm
Many common names for this and other cycads include the word “palm” because these plants have a superficial resemblance to palm trees. The term “sago” refers to a type of edible starch that can be extracted from these plants. Sago is used as a food source in Asia, particularly in New Guinea. Most sago is commercially extracted from a type of palm, Metroxylon sagu, which is sometimes called “true sago palm” to distinguish it from this cycad species.

Description: This evergreen cycad is native to the tropical islands of southern Japan, but it grows well in the subtropics of the United States, particularly in Florida, California, Georgia, and Puerto Rico. Sago palm grows well in full sun or partial shade but exhibits larger leaves in more shaded situations. Slow growing, the sago palm can reach heights of up to 15 feet in 50 years. Leaves are pinnately compound, 4 to 5 feet long, and up to 9 inches wide. The dark-green, stiff leaflets have a linear shape with a shiny upper surface. They are approximately 4 inches long, have revolute or curled under margins, and an acuminate or pointed tip. The trunk of the sago palm is dark brown and thick, and appears shaggy. Plants are either male or female and the reproductive structures are found in the center of the plant. The male organ resembles a large yellow cone that reaches lengths of up to 2 feet. The female organ resembles a yellow furry globe, and it houses many bright orange seeds that are 2 inches in diameter.

Allergen: Male plants are considered moderately allergenic, but female plants cause little to no allergies.

Commercial/Practical: Historically, the inner bark of the sago palm was used as a food source in Japan during times of famine. However, sago palm contains a powerful neurotoxin that can cause paralysis or even death if it is not prepared properly. The seeds can also be poisonous to humans and animals if ingested. Today, the dried leaves of this plant are commonly used as accents in floral arrangements.

Horticultural: This cycad can thrive both indoors and outdoors. Once it becomes established outdoors, sago palm is considered to be drought resistant but not freeze tolerant. In the Florida yard, it is a great accompaniment to other palms and thick grasses. Sago palm also makes a great walkway border, but it should be placed where bare skin will not contact or brush against the sharp, pointed tips of its leaflets. Depending on the available planting space, an important growth trait to consider is that male plants tend to branch out more than do female plants. More importantly, take caution when using this plant as an accent in home landscapes, since it contains a strong neurotoxin that can paralyze or even kill animals or humans who ingest it. In Japan, a bonsai variety of sago palm (Cycas nana) is created by packing sand around the plant’s roots and rationing the amount of water it receives. This stunts the palm’s growth, giving it a bonsai-like appearance. In Florida, one of the greatest damaging agents to this species is the cycad aulacaspis scale (Aulacaspis yasumatsui). Information on how to manage this insect can be found at the following website:

Selected from:

Sold at Nassau County Master Gardener Plant Sale

by kathywarner

Posted: June 10, 2017

Category: Florida-Friendly Landscaping, Home Landscapes

Tags: Cycas revoluta, plant sale, sago palm

Sago Palm Tree Stock Photos and Images

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  • Sago Palm Plantation near Mukah Sarawak Malaysia Borneo
  • Sago Palm Tree growing in North Central Florida.
  • High Angle Close-up Of Sago Palm Tree
  • Sago Palm Tree in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic.
  • High Angle View Of Sago Palm Tree In Park
  • Japanese sago palm tree and sky
  • High Angle View Of Sago Palm Tree Growing On Field
  • Gnarly tree trunk of the sago palm tree, sago palm, king sago, sago cycad, Japanese sago palm, Cycas revoluta
  • Low Angle View Of Sago Palm Tree
  • Abstract pattern created by new fronds of a Sago Palm tree, Cycas Revolta, uncurling
  • High Angle View Of Sago Palm Tree
  • Forester Cutting Sago Palm Tree in Rain Forest Mukah Sarawak Borneo Malaysia
  • Beautiful green large branches sago palm in the garden. Top view of small sago palm tree plant with green leaves and spikes
  • Close Up view of a female Sago Palm (a.k.a. Japanese sago palm, Funeral Palm, King Sago) Cycas revoluta with groups of megasporophylls
  • Head of a Sago Palm Tree (Cycas revoluta) from botanical garden in Puerto de la Cruz Tenerife Spain.
  • A male cone of the Cycad Sago Palm tree (commonly known as the King Sago Palm).
  • Closeup view of Sago palm tree (Cycas revoluta)
  • Tropical Sago palm tree, Mauritius
  • Closeup of the Sago Palm tree with new growth in its center.
  • Head of a Sago Palm Tree Cycas revoluta
  • Sago Palm Tree growing in North Central Florida.
  • Sago Palm Leaves
  • Punta Cana, Dominican Republic – October 21, 2019: Beautiful Beach in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic.
  • Top view of small sago palm tree plant with green leaves and spikes
  • A young Eastern Lubber Grasshopper on the leaves of a Sago Palm tree.
  • Japanese sago palm tree wrapped with straw for protection during the winter in Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan
  • Queen Sago (Cycas rumphii), female plant with fruits, full-grown green leaves and fertile brown leaves, palm garden
  • Full-grown tree Cycas revoluta also called sago palm, king sago, sago cycad, Japanese sago palm
  • Close up macro shot of new fronds opening on a Sago Palm tree, Cycas revolta, with abstract pattern
  • Cycas revoluta male is a slow-growing tree with green leaves and drupe that contains the seeds. Sago palm, Turkey, Belek.
  • Melanesia, Papua New Guinea, Bismarck Sea area, Tuam Island. Detail of palm tree trunk.
  • palm tree setting sun coco
  • border of leaves palm tree
  • Santo da Serra Golf Club _ The ‘King Sago Palm’ Cycad or (cycas revoluta), Funchal, Madeira, Portugal
  • Cycas revoluta – king sago – sago cycad – Japanese sago palm and bright sand
  • Palm tree and sky with clouds
  • Close up view of the Sago palm tree (Cycas revoluta).
  • abstract leaf pattern close up view from tropical palm tree
  • Head of a Sago Palm Tree Cycas revoluta
  • Sago Palm Tree growing in North Central Florida.
  • Close up view of the Japanese sago palm tree on a garden.
  • Cycas rumphii, commonly known as queen sago or the queen sago palm in Colombia, South America.
  • Top view of small sago palm tree plant with green leaves and spikes
  • A young Eastern Lubber Grasshopper on the leaves of a Sago Palm tree.
  • False Sago Palm (Cycas circinalis L. )
  • Queen Sago (Cycas rumphii), bark structure from the falling off of leaves, native to Southeast Asia, Palm Garden
  • , , ‘ Ponta Delgada’
  • New Palm fronds uncurl, macro shot of a Sago Palm tree, Cycas revolta, with abstract frosted blue treatment
  • sago palm (Cycas revoluta), mit sporopylls
  • Melanesia, Papua New Guinea, Bismarck Sea area, Tuam Island. Detail of palm tree trunk.
  • sago palm (Cycas revoluta), mit sporopylls an ripe seeds
  • Full-grown tree Cycas revoluta also called sago palm, king sago, sago cycad, Japanese sago palm
  • sago palm (Cycas revoluta), mit sporopylls an ripe seeds
  • Beautiful palm leaf
  • Papuan women korowai opening the bark and cutting a Sago palm tree. Indonesia. In the deep jungle of New Guinea.Irian Jaya
  • New leaves on bark of cycad palm tree plant
  • abstract leaf pattern close up view from tropical palm tree
  • Sago Palm Tree growing in North Central Florida.
  • Close up view of the Japanese sago palm tree on a garden.
  • Cycas rumphii, commonly known as queen sago or the queen sago palm in Colombia, South America.
  • Plantation of palm trees
  • A young Eastern Lubber Grasshopper on the leaves of a Sago Palm tree.
  • Flower of the female Sago palm, Cycas revoluta, encircled by glossy dark green foliage in Costa Rica / Central America.
  • Palm, Sago palm, Cycas revoluta, Brown subject.
  • Sago Palm.
  • Sago palm on postage stamp of 1894, North Borneo
  • Sago Palm Trees In Backyard
  • Melanesia, Papua New Guinea, Bismarck Sea area, Tuam Island. Detail of palm tree trunks with blue sky.
  • Sago Palm Plantation near Mukah Sarawak Malaysia Borneo
  • Mature seeds of the sago palm (Cycas revoluta) , Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, Spain
  • Sago palm and fruit.
  • Sago palm leaves unfurling in spring
  • Closeup of new baby cycad (sago palm) leaves
  • Clos up of emerging yellow flowers of a Cycad recurvata, also known as the Japanese Sago Palm.
  • Sago palm seed pod, The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens San Marino, California, United States of America
  • People of the Nomadic Forest Tribe Korowai processing the sago palm tree (Metroxylon sagu).
  • Sago Palm Tree growing in North Central Florida.
  • Flowering palm trees cone against the background of green leaves.
  • palm tree trunk from howea forsteriana arecaceae kentiapalm from the lord-howe-islands tropical
  • Sago Palm Maui
  • Sago Palm fronds.
  • Flower of the female Sago palm, Cycas revoluta, encircled by glossy dark green foliage in Costa Rica / Central America.
  • Palm, Sago palm, Cycas revoluta, Brown subject, Green background.
  • A palm tree in the wind
  • Preparing Sago in a traditional processing, Papua, Indonesia
  • closeup photo of small palm tree
  • Closeup of the foliage of the Japanese Sago Palm showing the curl in the leaves before the frond fully sforms
  • photo of small sago palm
  • Sago palm with a large trunk in a black bucket among other plants
  • Close up of Sago Palm with leaves of offshoot, Vietnam
  • Cycas revoluta also called sago palm, king sago, sago cycad, Japanese sago palm
  • Closeup of a cycad (sago palm) plant in sunshine
  • Greece, Flower of female Sago palm, Cycas revoluta, encircled by glossy dark green foliage.
  • 19th century illustration of Cycas circinnalis. Published in Systematischer Bilder-Atlas zum Conversations-Lexikon, Ikonographische Encyklopaedie der
  • People of the Nomadic Forest Tribe Korowai processing the sago palm tree (Metroxylon sagu).
  • Female seed cone of a Sago Palm Tree growing in North Central Florida.
  • Close up of Compound Pinnate green leaves, leaflets in rows, two at tip. White background. Horizontal formation. Abstract vain texture. Bright lit by
  • palm tree trunk from howea forsteriana arecaceae kentiapalm from the lord-howe-islands tropical

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