- Winterizing Mandevillas: Tips For Overwintering A Mandevilla Vine
- How to Overwinter Mandevilla as a Houseplant
- Winterizing Mandevillas
- Three Ways to Overwinter Mandevilla, Dipladenia
- In the Garden
- Gardening Events
- Soos Creek Botanical Garden Fall Plant Sale:
- Skagit Valley Giant Pumpkin Festival:
- King County Master Gardeners’ Cool Plants & Hot Topics:
- It’s time to renovate your lawn
- Rio Dipladenia Plant Care
- What’s wrong with my Dipladenia?
- Propagating Mandevilla: Using Mandevilla Cuttings Or Seeds To Propagate Mandevilla Vine
- How to Grow Mandevilla Seeds
- How to Propagate Mandevilla Cuttings
- Flowering Vines for Color
- Mandevilla Care
- New Mandevilla Varieties
- More Varieties of Mandevilla
Winterizing Mandevillas: Tips For Overwintering A Mandevilla Vine
Mandevilla is a showy vine with big, shiny leaves and eye-catching blooms available in shades of crimson, pink, yellow, purple, cream and white. This graceful, twining vine can grow up to 10 feet in a single season.
Mandevilla plants in winter survive the season in fine shape if you live in a tropical climate that falls within the temperature ranges of USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above. However, if you live in a more northern climate, planting the vine in a container is the best way to go. This tropical plant won’t tolerate temperatures below 45 to 50 degrees F. (7-10 C.) and must be wintered indoors.
How to Overwinter Mandevilla as a Houseplant
Bring a potted mandevilla plant indoors before the mercury drops below 60 degrees F. (15 C.) and grow it as a houseplant until temperatures rise in spring. Trim the plant to a manageable size and put it where it gets plenty of bright sunlight. Room temperatures are fine.
Water the plant every week and trim as needed to maintain the desired size and shape. Don’t expect blooms; the plant isn’t likely to bloom during the winter.
If you’re short on bright light or space, you can bring the mandevilla indoors and store it in a dormant state. Put the plant in the sink and drench the soil thoroughly to wash out pests that may be lurking in the potting mix, then cut it back to about 10 inches. If you don’t want to trim it back, you may notice yellowing with subsequent leaf drop – this is normal.
Place the plant in a sunny room where temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees F. (12-15 C.). Water sparingly throughout the winter, providing only enough moisture to keep the potting mix from becoming bone dry. When you see early spring growth indicating the plant is breaking dormancy, move the mandevilla to a warm, sunny room and resume normal watering and fertilization.
Either way you decide to winter your mandevilla, don’t move it back outdoors until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). This is also a good time to move the plant to a slightly larger pot with fresh potting mix.
Three Ways to Overwinter Mandevilla, Dipladenia
Mandevilla, now botanically known as Dipladenia, is a popular vine with shiny green leaves and trumpet shaped flowers in red, white, pink, yellow or apricot. This tropical vine is only hardy in frost-free areas. That means the rest of us need to overwinter it indoors if we want to save the plant for next year’s garden.
If indoor growing space is limited, consider taking 4 to 6” cuttings. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone and stick it in moist vermiculite or a well-drained potting mix to root. Then plant it and grow it like a houseplant.
Or move the whole plant indoors in front of a sunny window and grow it like a houseplant. Water thoroughly when the top inch of soil is starting to dry.
A third option is storing it in a cool dark location. Water just often enough to keep the roots from drying out.
A bit more information: Be sure to quarantine any plants you move indoors before adding them to your indoor garden. Monitor the plants for several weeks, watching for any pests that may have hitched a ride inside on the plant.
In the Garden
Potted mandevillas are popular additions to summer gardens. These South American vines feature glossy, dark-green leaves and stunning white, pink or red trumpet-shaped flowers that add color all summer.
Not surprisingly, the nectar-rich blossoms are irresistible to hummingbirds.
Unfortunately, mandevillas are tropical plants and can’t withstand temperatures much below 50 degrees. If you want to keep your mandevilla alive over the winter, bring it inside as a houseplant during the cold season.
Soos Creek Botanical Garden Fall Plant Sale:
Skagit Valley Giant Pumpkin Festival:
9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 24 (festivities begin at 11 a.m.). Cash prizes for the biggest pumpkins. Besides huge pumpkins, there will be a free talk by Kathleen Bander of Bats Northwest (reservations requested at 360-466-3821), live music, toad races, beer garden and more. Cost: Free admission; a small charge for pony rides and face-painting. Address: Christianson’s Nursery, 15806 Best Road, Mount Vernon.
King County Master Gardeners’ Cool Plants & Hot Topics:
9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 24. Fall plant sale and speakers. Many specialty nurseries will be featured. Tool-sharpening, information booth and rain-garden clinic. Register to attend the entire day of lectures. Limited same-day tickets might be available for individual talks. Address: Bellevue Botanical Garden, 12001 Main St., Bellevue.
Trim the vines to a reasonable size, and check the plant carefully for bugs. You don’t want to introduce a pest infestation into your houseplant collection, and you definitely don’t want a stowaway slug leaving a slime trail across expensive furniture.
Place the plant in direct sunlight, such as in front of a south or west window, and keep humidity as high as possible. Although unlikely to bloom indoors, mandevillas remain in active growth in winter, so water whenever the soil feels dry, 1 inch deep. Wait to fertilize until March; then feed every two weeks with a soluble houseplant food.
In spring, place the plant outside on nice days, but wait to leave it out for the summer until night temperatures remain in the high 50s.
If you lack sufficient light, another often-recommended method is to allow it to go dormant and store it in an unheated garage. Don’t bother: When I tried this, my mandevilla took so long to break dormancy, it didn’t even start flowering until late summer. If this happens, toss it in the compost bin and buy one that already is in bloom next spring.
It’s time to renovate your lawn
If you’re like the majority of homeowners in our region, you don’t water your lawn in summer, allowing it to go dormant. Now that temperatures are moderating, the grass should be coming back out of dormancy, but don’t be surprised if the turf has thinned out, especially if you held off watering for a number of summers in a row.
Thin turf is more susceptible to moss and weed problems. Moss is opportunistic, and quickly colonizes-thinned out lawns, and the weed seeds such as dandelions and clover germinate much more readily.
To solve the problem, renovate and overseed your lawn, ideally from mid-September to mid-October. Begin by spraying dandelions and other broad-leaved weeds with a liberal dose of straight white vinegar. Pick a sunny day, because vinegar works only in warm, dry weather. The vinegar will kill any grass it hits, but it doesn’t matter as long as you overseed as part of the renovation process.
If moss is a problem, rent a dethatching machine to remove the moss; then apply a moss-control product, heeding package instructions. The next step is to rent an aerifying machine and use it to punch gazillions of holes in the turf.
Look for a 50-50 mix by weight of fine fescue and perennial rye grass, or as close to a 50-50 mix as you can find. Overseed the lawn, making sure to rake as much seed as possible into the holes.
Apply an organic lawn fertilizer, and keep the soil surface moist. Before you know it, your lawn will look spectacular. If you do this hard work every few years (or hire a company) your lawn will not only look more attractive, it will be better able to resist future moss and weed problems, even if you continue to allow your grass to go dormant.
The plant genus Mandevilla includes countless species and hybrids, but only a few of them are cultivated. About 120 species are known worldwide. When buying a Mandevilla, you can choose between upright or hanging varieties and different heights.
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They range between 30 and 500 cm. The only feature that all varieties have in common is the shape of the flowers. Mandevilla sanderi, Mandevilla boliviensis, Mandevilla x amabilis and Mandevilla laxa are the four species that are most common.
- Mandevilla sanderi is the most famous and popular species
- it has white, pink or red funnel-shaped flowers, with diameters of 4-7 cm
- multiple flowers sit on one panicle
- their densely arranged leaves are thick, smooth and rich green
- this species can reach heights of 50 – 200 cm
- the semi-evergreen Mandevilla boliviensis is considered to be particularly rich flowering
- the large white flowers have a bright yellow throat
- their leaves are solid, shiny, all-round and smooth
- this species forms between 50 and 200 cm long tendrils
Mandevilla x amabilis
- the slightly fragrant pink flowers of these strong climbers belong to the largest among the Mandevilla species with a size of up to 10 cm – as well as their leaves
- in addition, the leaves are dark green and strongly textured
- the Mandevilla x amabilis can grow up to 500 cm
- the last of these four species is Mandevilla laxa with its snow-white flowers
- this fast-growing climber can grow about 500 cm in height
- its highly fragrant, white or creamy flowers adorn the plant from July to September in dense grapes
- the dark green leaves are long, elliptical and heart-shaped at the base
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Rio Dipladenia Plant Care
Rio dipladenias are easy to grow and will bloom all season long. These gorgeous tropical plants can be enjoyed in containers, hanging baskets and garden beds. Here are a few guidelines for growing Rios:
- Light exposure: Blooms best in full sun, a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight per day.
- Planting: Plant at same depth of soil as in the pot – in beds arrange plants 20 to 30 cm (8″ to 12″) apart.
- Height: Grows 30 to 60cm (12″ to 24″) in height.
- Watering: Allow soil to dry out in between watering. Can tolerate some drought.
- Temperature tolerance: Can be planted outdoors after frost has passed – protect from frost in the fall, can be overwintered indoors.
- Fertilizer: Every 2 weeks with an all purpose fertilizer.
- Deadheading: No deadheading is required, blooms will fade and fall off. Rio dipladenias will keep pushing out fresh blooms without deadheading.
- Features: Rio blooms attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
- Overwintering tips: Rio dipladenias may not survive in regions where temperatures drop below 7 degrees C or 45 degrees F in winter. Bring your plants indoors in fall to overwinter them. Place your Rios close to a window that receives all-day sunlight. Make sure the temperature remains above 7 degrees C or 45 F. Dipladenias only need watering when the top 5 cm (2 inches) of soil begin to dry. Some foliage may die, but your Rios should produce new foliage in spring. Rio dipladenias come pre-fertilized but plants that have been over-wintered can be fertilized once in May and once in August, with slow-release 18-6-12 fertilizer. Do not fertilize during winter as dipladenias’ natural rest period lasts from October to April.
What’s wrong with my Dipladenia?
It’s hard to tell without close-ups, but I suspect your Mandevilla (“Dipladenia” is an older name that is no longer in formal use) may be suffering from an insect attack, as well possible over-watering. There appear to be white spots on the underside of leaves, which could be insects or nymphs; as well as some areas that might be congregations of mealybugs.
The yellowing of the leaves may be a sign of over-watering; the good news is a lack of distinctive brown spots that would come with the more common fungal infections associated with Mandevilla. What is unusual is the injury to the flowers, which looks like it might be physical damage caused by chemicals or by effects of overhead watering during intense sun. Fungal and bacterial pathogens rarely invade Mandevilla flowers.
Mandevilla likes somewhat moist, but not wet, soil. It’s better to err on the side of dryness — let the top inch or two of medium dry out before giving them a good drink. Apart from insect pests, Mandevilla tend to stay healthy if not compromised by wet feet (or lack of sun, which can contribute to soggy soil). As with all plants, it’s important to practice good sanitation — clean up dead plant material on and around the plant, pluck infected leaves, remove insects, avoid water standing on leaves — to maintain a healthy plant.
Mealybugs, whitefly, aphids, scale and mites all like Mandevilla. Many of these can be controlled with a good “spray shower” when you see the first signs of a problem. Look for insects, their eggs or larvae, or the sticky “honeydew”, webs or cottony growth in branch crotches that indicate their presence. Use a strong spray from the hose to “blast off” whitefly, mites and aphids. Scale and mealybugs can be a bit harder to dislodge; try an alcohol-soaked cotton swab to wipe them off, and rinse well. If water and swab control isn’t enough, rather than resorting to stronger insecticides, try an “insecticidal soap”. These are milder chemicals, but they are still pesticides — read all labels and follow instructions carefully.
Here’s a fact sheet on growing Mandevilla from the Clemson University extension:
The University of Minnesota extension has a comprehensive article on “Houseplant Insect Control”, which covers the pests that like to make themselves at home on Mandevilla, regardless of whether grown indoors or out:
The article includes up-close photos you can use for identification, as well as control strategies that apply in both environments.
Good luck — I hope a good shower and some “dry feet” will send your Mandevillas back to good health!
Propagating Mandevilla: Using Mandevilla Cuttings Or Seeds To Propagate Mandevilla Vine
Mandevilla vine is known for its showy blooms. Largely grown in containers or hanging baskets, this tropical vine is generally treated as a houseplant, especially in cooler regions. In southern climates, it can be set outdoors in spring but returned inside prior to winter. Learning how to propagate mandevilla is easy. Mandevilla propagation is accomplished by seed or cuttings.
How to Grow Mandevilla Seeds
Propagating mandevilla from seed isn’t difficult, though it is best achieved with fresh seeds. Seedpods should be allowed to remain on the plant to dry before removing them. These can be easily recognized by their inverted v-shaped appearance.
Once the mandevilla seed pods have dried, they will turn brown in color. They will also begin to split open, revealing fluffy, dandelion-like seeds. At this time the seeds are ready to be collected.
For better results, soak the mandevilla seeds in water for about twelve hours prior to sowing them in well-draining soil. Mandevilla seeds require shallow planting, only covering them slightly with soil. Keep these moist and warm (about 65-75 F./18-24 C.) and place them in bright, indirect light. The seeds should germinate within a month or so.
How to Propagate Mandevilla Cuttings
Mandevilla vine is very easy to propagate from cuttings. While the best time to take cuttings is in spring, you can also take them in late summer or fall with some success. Cuttings should be made from tips or side shoots and about 3 inches (7.5 cm.) long. Remove all but the top two leaves. If desired, dip the mandevilla cuttings in rooting hormone and then stick them in a sandy peat mix.
Place the mandevilla cuttings in a somewhat shady area and keep them warm, moist, and humid. In fact, it may be helpful to place them in a plastic bag (with small air holes to release excess moisture). Once roots develop within a month or two, you can pinch back new growth to promote bushier growth if desired.
Mandevilla propagation is just that easy. Now that you know how to grow mandevilla seeds or root mandevilla cuttings, you can grow this lovely vine year after year.
A classic tropical vine, mandevilla is a great way to add a splash of color to any vertical space in a garden. With big, showy blooms that continue all summer and the fact that the plant is low-maintenance makes it a top vine choice. Mandevilla vines (sometimes called diplodenia) have seen a resurgence in popularity and breeding work is being done to continue to expand the vine’s varieties.
Flowering Vines for Color
Mandevillas are all about the blooms. Big, tropical blooms. Traditionally blooms come in shades of pink, red, and white and many shades in between. Now there’s a new color added to the range, a beautiful apricot. The large five-petaled blooms often have a rich golden throat inside that adds to the tropical look. Flowers are born in clusters that will continue to grow and add more buds all the time. Be careful not to damage these growing points of the bloom clusters or new buds will not form on that stalk. The size of the blooms can vary quite a bit depending on the variety. In general, smaller flowers tend to be much more abundant, and the larger blooms are a little more sparse, but quite grand.
These are some of our favorite flowering vines.
As far as care goes for these plants, they are low maintenance. Like most vigorous plants that bloom for long periods of time, they will benefit from a good dose of fertilizer every once in a while. While mandevilla is an annual vine, it can be overwintered. When planting, it’s important to note that mandevilla is poisonous if ingested. Place the plant in a spot away from curious kids or pets. The milky sap it exudes when cut can also cause sensitivity in some people if it comes in contact with skin.
If the plants get a little too crazy for your liking, mandevilla can be pruned or trained. This can actually help to encourage more branching, and eventually, more blooms.
Attract hummingbirds by planting mandevilla in your garden.
New Mandevilla Varieties
Initially, all mandevillas were climbing and vining plants. More recently, horticulturists and scientists have reined them in and shrunk them down. Many of the newer varieties are great options for hanging baskets and even spilling out of a container. Branching has also been improved, creating much bushier plants, and more blooming potential.
With all of the work to shrink these plants down in size, foliage can be quite variable between varieties. Older varieties tend to have much larger leaves that are a little rougher in texture and have more pronounced veins. The smaller, shrubbier types tend to have smaller leaves that are generally smooth and usually fairly glossy. The smaller leaves tend to showcase the blooms more.
Try these heat-tolerant container plants.
More Varieties of Mandevilla
‘Alice Dupont’ mandevilla
This Mandevilla selection is a classic vining variety (up to 20 ft) grown for its large pink blooms. This variety grows as long as 20 feet. Zones 10-11.
‘Sun Parasol Crimson’ mandevilla
This variety of Mandevilla bears intense crimson-red blooms on a semibushy plant that can reach 15 feet. Zones 10-11.
‘Red Riding Hood’ mandevilla
Mandevilla sanderi ‘Red Riding Hood’ bears rich, deep-pink flowers with yellow throats and glossy green foliage. Climbs to 12 feet. Zones 10-11.
Mandevilla laxa bears fragrant white flowers in summer and early autumn. It climbs to 15 feet. Zones 10-11.
‘Pink Parfait’ mandevilla
Mandevilla x amabilis ‘Pink Parfait’ bears double pale-pink blooms all summer long. It climbs to 20 feet. Zones 10-11.