- Medinilla Information – Tips On Caring For Medinilla Plants
- Medinilla Information
- How to Grow Medinilla Plants
- Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
- Medinilla magnifica
- Medinilla magnifica Care Tips
- Medinilla magnifica – planting and care
- Plant Care Guides: Medinilla magnifica
- Growing Roses and Grape Vines Together
- Soil Types for Roses and Grape Vines
- Growing Positions for Roses and Grape Vines
- Bare Soil, Mulch or Grass
- Pests and Diseases
- Medinilla magnifica
- Medinilla Magnifica 4 button in attractive pink gift cover
- Medinilla Magnifica maintenance Medinilla
Medinilla Information – Tips On Caring For Medinilla Plants
Sometimes called Rose Grape, Philipinne Orchid, Pink Lantern plant or Chandelier tree, Medinilla magnifica is small evergreen shrub native to the Philippines where it is usually found growing on trees in tropical forests. However, Medinilla has been grown for hundreds of years as an exotic houseplant, once prized in Belgium by the wealthy and noble. Learn how you, too, can grow this exotic species.
Medinilla is a tropical shrub that can grow up to 4 ft. tall. It grows like epiphytic orchids, in holes and crotches of trees. Unlike orchids, though, Medinilla does not absorb atmospheric moisture and nutrients via velamen (corky epidermis of aerial roots). Instead, the plant has large succulent green leaves, which hold onto or store moisture similar to other succulent plants.
In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Grow Medinilla Plants
Medinilla needs a warm and humid environment to survive. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). In fact, 63-77 degrees F. (17-25 C.) is ideal for proper Medinilla plant care. It prefers warm days in high but filtered light, and cooler nights in the 60s. Cooler nights help the plant to send out more flowers. Before purchasing Medinilla, be sure you can give it the warm, humid conditions it needs year round.
As a succulent, Medinilla does not need to be watered often, usually just thoroughly once a week. It does enjoy being misted by water often, especially in the dry winter months. If you have Medinilla as a houseplant, you may need to run a humidifier in the home during winter. Also, be sure to keep Medinilla plants away from air ducts and drafty windows.
Medinilla Plant Care Instructions
Caring for Medinilla plants isn’t difficult once you know what it needs. Grow the plant in filtered shade to full sun, though it prefers to avoid direct afternoon sun. During the flowering period, deadhead spent blooms to promote new flowers and keep the plant healthy looking.
After the flowering period, give Medinilla regular houseplant or orchid fertilizer. At this point, your Medinilla can be cut back to keep under control and create bushier new growth. Be sure to leave at least one leaf set on each stalk you cut, or that stalk will die back completely.
If you need to repot your Medinilla, do it after the flowering season. Repotting is an excellent time for Medinilla plant propagation, as the easiest way to create new Medinilla plants is by dividing an existing plant. When the time comes that your Medinilla has out grown its pot, just divide the plant in to several new pots.
Botanical Name: Medinilla magnifica
This tropical shrub bears drooping clusters of rosy pink flowers, giving it a common name of Rose Grape.
One of the most elegant flowering plants you can grow indoors, M. magnifica is every bit as magnificent as its name.
However, it’s not easy to please unless you can provide the high humidity this tropical native craves. Use every means to increase the moisture in the air around it.
Pairs of thick, glossy green leaves cover the upright stems. The leaves get big — up to 1 ft (30 cm) long — and are deeply veined with wavy edges.
In spring, given enough light and humidity, you can expect long, pendulous flower stalks to grow from the tips of the branches. The flower heads are spectacular. Clusters of small, pink flowers are carried beneath 2 or 3 tiers of pink bracts.
Did you know…
Medinilla is a genus in the Melastomaceae family that includes about 150 species. They’re all natives of the tropics from southern Asia, western Africa and the Pacific islands.
Cut it back. After flowering, prune the plant back by as much as half to control its size.
Wondering whether to repot? Repotting is probably only needed every couple years. Put Medinilla magnifica in a big container. If you want to control its size, keep the plant in the same pot and top-dress it every year.
How to Top-Dress: Remove the top 2-3 inches of potting mix and replace with fresh mix every couple years. Take care not to harm any roots that may be near the surface.
Winter Care. Give this evergreen shrub a dry, cool rest in winter. It will tolerate a minimum of 60°F/16°C in winter. Cut back on water — but don’t allow the soil to dry out — and stop fertilizing during this winter rest. Maintain high humidity by misting the plant regularly with room-temperature water. Misting also helps to prevent an invasion of spider mites that are attracted to dry conditions.
Medinilla magnifica Care Tips
Photo courtesy of Marschef
Height: Up to 4 ft (1.2 m)
Light: Bright, indirect light.
Water: Keep the soil evenly moist spring through fall. Water sparingly in winter, keeping the plant barely moist.
Humidity: High humidity is a must. Mist the foliage frequently and put the plant on a tray of wet pebbles. If the relative humidity drops below 60%, use a room humidifier.
Temperature: Warm (70°F/21°C); slightly cooler in winter (60°F/16°C).
Soil: Peat moss-based mix, such as African violet potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring through fall with a high-phosphorous fertilizer (such as 10-20-10) diluted by half.
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Medinilla magnifica – planting and care
The Content Of The Article:
Medinilla magnifica is a tropical plant, which impresses not only by its aesthetic leaves, but especially by its pink to coral red flowers. It is one of the most beautiful among the 521 spotted Medinilla species and can be cultivated as a houseplant. In the wild, it reaches a stature height of up to 3 meters and as a houseplant up to 1.5 meters.
Care and cultural instruction of Medinilla magnifica
Location: For flowering but also for healthy growth, the Medinilla needs a bright location, which also provides a little sun in the evening and early morning. In winter, during the low-light and short days from November to spring, it also tolerates the midday sun. Since it must not be exposed to direct sunlight during the warm season, their place should not be on the windowsill but in a traffic light or on a stool at the nearby window.
temperatures: Temperatures should be between 19 and 27 degrees throughout the year. However, the beautiful plant tolerates temperatures up to 13 degrees in the rest period but it should not be colder. In addition to a dry rest period, it requires the highest possible humidity for the development of its flowers, so the planter is placed in a bowl filled with stones and water. If the temperatures above 18 degrees, it is sprayed with shallow rainwater daily. After the complete formation of new leaves, the Medinilla should change to a cool place with temperatures of 16 to 18 degrees, so that new flower buds can form. Once they have shown, they can return to their warmer location. It is important that it is now neither moved nor rotated.
to water: Especially from spring to autumn, the Medinilla is regularly and evenly poured with well-tempered, low-limp water. However, only when the uppermost layer of earth has dried again. In the winter rest period, it is only given so much water that a complete drying out of the earth is prevented. Normal irrigation only starts again when the first flower buds start to form in spring or late winter.
Fertilize and nutrients: If the first flower buds have already opened, the plant can be fertilized with liquid fertilizer in a normal concentration every two weeks. In the period from autumn to spring she receives no fertilizer.
Substrate for the Medinilla magnifica
For the tropical plant, a mixture of 1/3 coarse loam soil, 1/3 loosely compost soil and 1/3 peat, which is mixed with a little sand, is recommended. Alternatively, it is also possible to use normal soil which has been mixed with a little coarse material, such as fiber peat.
Repotting and pruning
Ideally, the Medinilla magnifica is carefully transplanted to a larger planter every two years in the spring. Since the roots are a bit brittle, they should be treated carefully during cultivation. If the last flowers wither in late summer, they are cut off directly at the base. When pruning long shoots are about half to cut and remove unwanted bulky branches. If the medinilla has reached a stately size, it can already receive a pruning down to the old wood when repotting, whereby now also the root ball is to be reduced in size.
Propagation of the medinilla magnifica
The beautiful plant can be propagated with head cuttings or with the method of moss:
- will be cut in January or February
- and placed in a nursery bed (integrated heating)
- at temperatures of 30 to 35 degrees
- and extremely high humidity
- additional administration of rooting hormones
- from March to April
- Cut the perennial branch diagonally to the middle after sprouting
- Keep the gap open with a wedge and dust with rooting powder
- Wrap in moist moss, pulp or peat moss
- keep it evenly moist for several weeks
- after rooting, separate young plant and cultivate
- Max. Growth height as a houseplant rarely more than 1.5 meters
- Drooping 50 centimeters long Blütenrispen, which form in the upper branch range from late winter to summer
- reacts sensitively when relocating during flower and bud formation
Pests and care errors
If the medinilla is attacked by scale insects, scaly insects show up on the undersides of the leaves and on the sprouts. They honeydew and can be successfully fought with beneficials or insecticides. Even the red spider likes to infest this plant but spraying with water prevents a strong infestation. In addition, a regular check on the underside of the leaves shows an infestation in good time.
The smallest care mistake punishes the extremely sensitive plant, because if they do not receive enough water or if they are wrong, they quickly show scale lice and mealybugs. If she gets too much water, the roots rot and the medinilla comes in. If there are no pink inflorescences, there was a mistake in the wintering phase and if it is moved or rotated, the medinilla loses the leaves.
Worth knowing about the Medinilla magnifica soon
The Medinilla magnifica with its impressive flowers is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful plants but it is also very sensitive and needs proper care. If she receives the right location, the required amount of water and observes a few essential points, she soon develops magnificent flowers, which become the real eye-catcher.
The best is the Medinilla magnifica in a tropical window or in a temperate small greenhouse. It prefers a bright location, but only tolerates direct sunlight from November until the beginning of spring. Morning and evening sun, however, is well tolerated. The rest of the time is to protect the plant from the sun! In order to protect the strongly hanging flowering plants, a storage in a hanging basket or a high bucket as a planter is ideal.
The potting soil should be loose, rich in humus and enriched with coarse particles. When planting, care should be taken not to damage the plant.
Temperatures between 16 ºC and 25 ºC are best for Medinilla magnifica. It is especially important not to keep the root area too cool! After flowering and the complete formation of new leaves, the plant must be placed in a cooler location. Ideal are 16 ºC to 18 ºC. There, new flower buds form on the leaf axils. Once you see them, the Medinilla magnifica returns to a warmer location. This favors the formation of the flowers. Thereafter, the plant is not moving, not even rotated!
The Medinilla magnifica can be repotted all year round. During flowering there is a risk of damaging the delicate flowers. When repotting in the spring, one cuts back the same as previously chopped shoots to the first leaf knot. Also grown up, older plants are cut back into the old wood. Root bales can also be downsized.
Medinilla magnifica is increasingly being propagated by cuttings. That’s difficult though. The cuttings, which are not yet very lignified, will be cut in January or February. They must be placed in a propagation bed, in addition need rooting (hormones), a lot of heat (30 ºC to 35 ºC) and extremely high humidity. Another possibility is the method of mossing from March to April.
Video Board: Medinilla Magnifica – Update and Flowering.
Plant Care Guides: Medinilla magnifica
Origin – Philippine Islands. Genus originates in tropical Africa, SE Asia and the Pacific Islands. A tropical plant with long pink hanging flower sprays with canopies of large leaves. Common name – Rose Grape.
These plants require bright light but should be shaded from the hottest sun.
Water well enough to thoroughly moisten compost during the growing season, allowing the top of the compost to dry 2cm down before repeating. During the rest period, water enough to stop the plant from drying out completely. Resume watering moderately in early-mid Spring when flower stalks become visible.
Provide a temperature of between 18-25ºC (64-77ºF) throughout the year, lowering the temperature slightly, but not below 15ºC (59ºF), during the winter period (November to January) or if in flower then after flowering has finished.
Apply a standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks once flower buds begin to open.
In spring, re-pot into one size larger container taking care not to damage plant roots. The largest pot size that is practical is likely to be 10 inches, therefore top dress in spring with fresh compost. Use Orchid compost.
Home propagation is not usually possible with this plant. Tip cuttings are the best method employed. It is, however, probably more advisable to buy young specimens.
Mist spray this plant, though not blooms, to increase humidity. This is very important as it is susceptible to Red Spider Mite attack. Prune plants after flowering has finished, cutting back unwanted branches almost to base level and shorting by half all along branches, regardless of whether they have flowered or not.
Growing Roses and Grape Vines Together
Roses and grape vines are often grown together in home gardens for several reasons. First of all, both plants look fabulous, they can be very decorative and are easily grown even by inexperienced gardener. Second, any issue with the diseases will be visible on the roses, first. That is why roses are often grown on the edges of vineyards…
Updated: December 2, 2019.
In home gardens, roses are grown almost exclusively for their decorative flowers and leaves. Grape vines can be very decorative plants, too, but they are commonly grown for the shade and grapes.
Requirements of the roses and grape vines are very similar, and although they do compete for the water, nutrients and sun, if you like them, feel free to grow them together.
Soil Types for Roses and Grape Vines
There are many types of soil, but generally, they are clay and silt soils, loamy soils and sandy soils. All these soils have their pros and sons.
The best soil for growing roses and grape vines is sandy loam soil, rich in organic matter, with pH around 6.2 – 6.5. Both roses and grape vines tolerate pH between 5.5 and 7.0, but this also depends on the rose/grape vine variety and, of course, rootstock plants. For short, keep pH around 6.2 – 6.5 and your plants will be happy.
Sandy loam soil also drains well, preventing excess water around the roots, which could lead to root rot and other root issues. Such soil also holds nutrients well.
When preparing the soil for roses and grape vines, check pH and nutrient level using home garden test kits – they are cheap and rather reliable.
If you want to increase pH, use lime, and if you want to decrease pH, use sulfur. Amounts depend on current and desired pH and soil volume (not just area).
When growing plants next to the new concrete walls, keep in mind that such walls leach lime over time and increase pH slowly. Old concrete walls (30+ years) also leach lime, but negligible.
Adding aged or dehydrated manure, compost, humus, and even mineral fertilizers, helps the soil to be fertile, well aerated with good drainage and keeps the soil slightly acidic.
During summer, adding mulch prevent water loss, but also decomposing mulch feeds the plants.
During vegetation period, both roses and grape vines require plenty of moisture and nutrients, but grape vines grow happily even in not so ideal conditions. Nonetheless, in good conditions, roses bloom often and grape vines grow vigorously, bearing plenty of grapes. Just don’t add to much nitrogen – too much nitrogen can make plants grow fast and big, but those plants are actually weak and prone to diseases and pests.
Depending on the local climate and temperature, roses require at least 1 inch (~2.5 cm) of water, per week. High oscillations in soil moisture and nutrient levels should be avoided, thus, water plants more often with lower amounts of water. Similarly, add fertilizers every month – spread them over the area and gently dig them into the soil.
Note: personally, I never water grape vines, but the roses growing next to them, I water regularly. Similar is with keeping the soil fertile – twice a year, I add aged or dehydrated manure and some compost/humus and I try to add some balanced NPK fertilizer in small amounts on a monthly basis – regular digging in the fertilizers, keep the soil in excellent condition. IMHO, of course.
Growing Positions for Roses and Grape Vines
Both roses and grape vines need at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sun every day, preferably much more.
Growing grape vines on trellis and/or fences, provides sunny positions for roses next to the grape vines. When growing grape vines for shade (and for grapes, of course), roses can be grown in partial shade, especially during hot summer days, when some shade is actually beneficial to roses.
Both plants prefer southern positions, protected from strong wind.
Some rose and grape vine varieties are very hardy and can tolerate very low temperatures – check with your local garden center which varieties are recommended in your area.
Bare Soil, Mulch or Grass
Many gardeners wonder should they leave the top soil bare, add mulch or grow grass.
Personally, for elevated surfaces, I prefer bare soil or mulch, and for all other areas, I prefer grass.
Bare soil – water loss is the greatest, but any weed or debris is clearly visible and can be removed right away. Also, digging in the fertilizers or compost/humus can be done within seconds. Note that regular tilling/hoeing decrease the water loss.
Mulch – mulch prevent water loss, especially during hot summer days. Also, mulch prevents (up to the point) weeds and as mulch decomposes, it feeds the plants. However, if you want to add some, for example, NPK fertilizer, you have to remove the mulch, spread and dig in the NPK fertilizer and then again cover the soil with mulch.
Grass – growing grass around roses and grape vines (or other plants) makes the garden very decorative, but grass requires water and nutrients, too. But, grass can be mowed with lawn mowers quickly and easily, just be careful when mowing right next to the roses and grape vines. When growing grass in the shades of the grape vines, keep in mind that amount of direct sunlight is lower, so choose the grass mix accordingly. Also, regular watering of the grass, can lead to elevated moisture around the leaves and increased danger of some diseases.
Personally – some of my grape vines are 10 feet (~3m) above the grass, with plenty of air circulating between the grape vines and the grass – I have never noticed any additional problems with diseases on such high grape vine’s leaves and grapes.
Pests and Diseases
For a long time, roses were used as alarm to prevent problems with grape vines.
These days, commercial grape vine growers plant roses purely for decorative purposes – just like small gardeners.
Most common diseases are various types of mildews. There are two main kinds of mildews:
– Powdery mildew (Oidium) – Oidium likes a warm and shady environment and does not require a damp conditions.
– Downy mildew – unlike Oidium, Downy mildew likes damp conditions.
They both develops on various parts of the plants, preventing photosynthesis, destroying fruits etc.
Both roses and grape vines should be treated with the mixture of sulfur and copper compounds – just spray the mixture evenly all over the plants, leaving no surface unsprayed.
Note: when using such chemicals, be sure to read and understand the instructions fully.
Pests’ infestations should be treated using organic mixtures – they are less toxic (if at all) to plants and to humans and pets and they do their job well.
In order to prevent pests and diseases, keep your roses and grape vines healthy and strong and if possible, grow few more plants next to them, like hyssop (Hyssopus), basil (Ocimum basilicum), oregano (Origanum vulgare), chives (Allium schoenoprasum) etc.
These plants keep insects away by producing repelling scents and can be very beneficial in the whole garden, not only next to roses and grape vines. They are also very decorative plants, too.
- Position: bright, indirect light
- Soil: good potting compost
- Rate of growth: average
- Hardiness: tender (indoors only)
- Current height: approximately 55cm (including pot)
- Pot covers: choose a 18cm pot cover to give a good fit over the pot
As the name implies, this is a truly magnificent plant. The big, lustrous leaves, which are heavily veined, are wonderful, but it’s for the impressive clusters of flowers that this plant is so highly sought after. These appear on pendent stems, that cascade over the edges of the pot, and although quite small themselves, they are surrounded by large, showy bracts. Please note that the pot in the photograph is not supplied with the plant (which is sent out in a black plastic pot). They do however make excellent potted plants, and if you wish to pot yours up, we do have a wide range of pots on our website to choose from.
- Garden care: Keep well watered during the growing season, making sure the excess water drains away freely, but cut back a little during the winter. These plants prefer a humid environment, so avoid placing near a radiator and mist the foliage with water regularly. Feed with a good general purpose house plant fertiliser from spring to late summer and maintain temperatures above 15C in winter.
The Medinilla needs little water, it is early enough to give the plant a glass of water if the leaves are slightly limp.
The Medinilla finds a spray turn pretty good at its time, after all the Medinilla is originally from the tropics. A spraying is not necessarily necessary, but it does increase the humidity, which ultimately benefits the plant.
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Lots of light in winter, preferably direct sunlight, but no full sun in summer . This is to prevent burning of the leaves.
Between 17 and 25 °
Do not feed during flowering, the plant is supplied with sufficient food upon delivery. Give food once every two weeks after flowering. Use flowering plant food from Pokon for this
After flowering it is advisable to remove the old flowers to speed up the growth. The plant will then, where the flowers used to be, start making new leaves. When these have grown, it is important to cool the plant (16 to 17 ° C) to start budding in the young leaves. Note that the plant continues to need light. If the buds are clearly visible, the plant can return to the normal temperature, allowing the buds to develop further into a new splendor of flowers.
Repotting can in principle be done all year round, only during flowering is it not advisable because of the fragility of the flowers.
If the Medinilla becomes too large and you do not want to repot it, you can also choose to remove the last grown shoots. Then cut the stem at the bottom with a pair of secateurs or a sharp knife.
You can try to multiply a Medinilla yourself. You can do this by cutting off a young stem at the base. Cut the leaves to about 5 cm from the stem. By placing this stem in cutting soil and then leaving it at a temperature of 20 to 25 ° for 6 to 8 weeks, the plant will be rooted and you can place it in a pot.
The Medinilla is known for the beautiful and large flower clusters. Nowadays the Medinillas are available almost all year round. With proper care, these can flower for 2 to 4 months.
Growth sugars are produced during the flowering period. This is expressed by a white rash on the leaf. These growing sugars are not harmful to the plant.
Mealybug sometimes occurs and can be controlled by spraying off the mealybug with a fairly strong jet of water. Schildluis is best treated with a pesticide. This also applies to mealybug if the water jet has no effect. Multiple treatments are then required.
The Medinilla is non-toxic.
With a medinilla magnifica you have a special plant.