Pineapple Broom Plant Care: Moroccan Pineapple Broom Plants In Gardens
Looking for a reliable, small, hardy tree or shrub with fragrant flowers? Then look no further than the Moroccan pineapple broom.
Pineapple Broom Tree Information
This tall shrub or small tree hails from Morocco. Moroccan pineapple broom plants (Cytisus battandieri syn. Argyrocytisus battandieri) was named after French pharmacist and botanist, Jules Aimé Battandier, who was an authority on North-West African plants. It was introduced to European horticulture in 1922.
For many years, the plant was grown in greenhouses, as it was thought to be less hardy than has been more recently shown. It is reliably hardy down to 0° F. or -10° C. It is best grown outdoors with shelter from cold winds and in full sun.
Pineapple broom makes an excellent wall shrub, with 3-parted silvery-grey leaves
producing yellow, erect, pea-shaped flowers in large upright cones having the scent of pineapple, hence the name. It has a rounded habit and can reach 4 m. (15 ft.) in height and spread. This plant received its RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) in 1984.
Pineapple Broom Plant Care
Moroccan pineapple broom plants are easily grown in light, sandy or gritty, well-drained soils in full sun. As they originally come from the Atlas Mountains, they tolerate heat, drought, poor soil and dry growing conditions. They prefer a south- or west-facing aspect.
Cuttings can be taken in June or July but may prove difficult to grow. Propagation is best from seed, which is first soaked overnight and sown from September to May.
Pruning Moroccan Pineapple Trees
Renewal pruning helps maintain attractive form and vigorous growth. However, if Moroccan pineapple broom plants are pruned severely, they will develop straggly water sprouts. It is, therefore, best to plant it in a spot where you won’t need to control its height.
The tree’s natural habit is informal, and it may have multiple trunks. If you prefer a single trunk, train your plant from a young age, removing any suckers or sprouts that appear low on the main stem. If allowed to, the pineapple broom can have multiple, suckering stems and will start to resemble a large shrub instead of a small tree.
Cytisus battandieri ( Pineapple Bloom )
C.battandieri syn.Argyrocytisus battandieri is a tree-like flowering deciduous shrub that is upright with fan-like silvery gray leaves. Flowers are true yellow pineapple-scented and present from May to June. Some nurserymen report that this plant is not easily transplanted, while others disagree.
Important Info : Highly toterant of poor soils and great for stabalizing slopes. Best in full sun.
Google Plant Images:
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 15 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 15 ft.
Plant Category: shrubs,
Plant Characteristics: spreading,
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,
Flower Characteristics: erect, fragrant,
Flower Color: yellows,
Tolerances: deer, pollution, slope,
Bloomtime Range: Late Spring to Early Summer
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 8
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Part Sun to Sun
pH Range: 5 to 8
Soil Range: Some Sand to Some Clay
Water Range: Normal to Moist
How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
Conditions : Full to Partial Sun
Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!
Problems : Creating a Water Ring
A water ring, sometimes called a water well, is a mound of compacted soil that is built around the circumference of a planting hole once a plant has been installed. The water ring helps to direct water to the outer edges of a planting hole, encouraging new roots to grow outward, in search of moisture. The height of the mound of soil will vary from a couple of inches for 3 gallon shrubs, to almost a foot for balled and burlapped trees, especially those planted on a slope. Mulch over the ring will help to further conserve moisture and prevent deterioration of the ring itself. Once a plant is established, the water ring may be leveled, but you should continue to mulch beneath the plant.
Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants
Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
How-to : Pruning Flowering Shrubs
It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.
Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers – in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.
Diseases : Rhizactonia Root and Stem Rot
Rhizoctonia is a fungus that is found in most soils and enters the plant through the roots or the stem at soil level. Prevention and Control: First of all, do not overwater and if you suspect Rhizoctonia may be your problem, decrease watering. If a plant is too far gone (all the leaves from the bottom up are wilted), remove it. If your plant is in a container, discard the soil too. Wash the pot with a 1 part bleach to 9 parts water solution. Fungicides can be used, according to label directions. Consult a professional for a legal recommendation of what fungicide to use.
Pest : Spider Mites
Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.
Diseases : Pythium and Phytophtora Root Rot
Rot Rot, Pythium or Phytophthora occurs when soil moisture levels are excessively high and fungal spores present in the soil, come in contact with the susceptible plant. The base of stems discolor and shrink, and leaves further up the stalk wilt and die. Leaves near base are affected first. The roots will turn black and rot or break. This fungi can be introduced by using unsterilized soil mix or contaminated water.
Prevention and Control Remove affected plants and their roots, and discard surrounding soil. Replace with plants that are not susceptible, and only use fresh, sterilized soil mix. Hold back on fertilizing too. Try not to over water plants and make sure that soil is well drained prior to planting. This fungus is not treatable by chemicals.
Rhizoctonia Root and Stem Rot symptoms look similar to Pythium Root Rot, but the Rhizoctonia fungus seems to thrive in well drained soils.
Fungi : Leaf Spots
Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.
Diseases : Blight
Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.