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- Flowering cherries (Prunus)
- Prunus serrulata ( Amanogawa Japanese Flowering Cherry )
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- Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ – Flowering Cherry
- Amanogawa Flowering Cherry Trees
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry flowers
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry flowers
(Photo courtesy of NetPS Plant Finder)
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry in bloom
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry in bloom
(Photo courtesy of NetPS Plant Finder)
Height: 20 feet
Spread: 5 feet
Hardiness Zone: 5a
Other Names: Oriental Cherry, Japanese Cherry
One of the best Japanese cherries, this is a narrow, upright cultivar which is covered in showy pink flowers in early spring before the leaves; stunning bronze bark, good fall color; makes a great front yard feature, needs full sun and well-drained soil
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry is smothered in stunning clusters of fragrant pink flowers along the branches in early spring, which emerge from distinctive rose flower buds before the leaves. It has dark green foliage which emerges coppery-bronze in spring. The serrated pointy leaves turn coppery-bronze in fall. The fruit is not ornamentally significant. The smooth dark red bark adds an interesting dimension to the landscape.
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry is a deciduous tree with a narrowly upright and columnar growth habit. Its average texture blends into the landscape, but can be balanced by one or two finer or coarser trees or shrubs for an effective composition.
This tree will require occasional maintenance and upkeep, and is best pruned in late winter once the threat of extreme cold has passed. Gardeners should be aware of the following characteristic(s) that may warrant special consideration;
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry is recommended for the following landscape applications;
- Vertical Accent
Planting & Growing
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry will grow to be about 20 feet tall at maturity, with a spread of 5 feet. It has a low canopy with a typical clearance of 2 feet from the ground, and is suitable for planting under power lines. It grows at a medium rate, and under ideal conditions can be expected to live for 50 years or more.
This tree should only be grown in full sunlight. It does best in average to evenly moist conditions, but will not tolerate standing water. It is not particular as to soil pH, but grows best in rich soils. It is highly tolerant of urban pollution and will even thrive in inner city environments, and will benefit from being planted in a relatively sheltered location. This is a selected variety of a species not originally from North America.
Flowering cherries (Prunus)
There’s no doubt that if you want a tree with the wow factor in spring, then an ornamental or flowering cherry (Prunus) is the perfect choice. They are literally smothered in blossom and many provide excellent autumn foliage colours.
Many varieties are perfect for even small gardens and they come in a range of shapes – from columnar, spreading or weeping. And, of course, there are varieties of cherry that produce deliciously tasty cherry fruit.
How to grow flowering cherries
Flowering cherries prefer an open, sunny site, which isn’t too exposed – strong winds in spring will blow away much of the blossom, reducing the overall flowering display.
They prefer a good, well-drained soil enriched with lots of organic matter, which holds plenty of moisture in spring and summer, doesn’t dry out or become waterlogged. They will grow in most soils types, especially chalky and alkaline soils.
Flowering cherry varieties
There are numerous species and varieties, some being small or very slow growing making them suitable for all but the tiniest garden. Flower colours range from white through to deep pink, and they may be single or double – with lots of petals, which provide an even more spectacular display. Foliage colour can either be green or purple and many have beautiful autumn leaf colour too. One or too even have gorgeous mahogany or deep copper coloured bark.
The tree shape is an important consideration when choosing: columnar or flagpole cherries are perfect for small spaces; spreading cherries are suitable for larger spaces and to provide a focal point or centrepiece; weeping varieties don’t grow that tall and provide a waterfall of blossom.
The following are all excellent trees, suitable for small gardens.
- Prunus Accolade has a spreading growth habit and is covered in masses of light pink, semi-double flowers in April. In autumn, the leaves turn a rich orange or red.
- Prunus Amanogawa, the flagpole cherry, is thin and upright, bearing lots of semi-double, pale pink flowers. In autumn, the leaves turn orange and red.
- Prunus Kiku-shidare-zakura, Cheal’s weeping cherry, is a small, compact weeping tree. The blousy, double flowers are rich pink. The leaves are a gorgeous bronze colour when young and turn a mellow orange in autumn.
- Prunus Kojo-no-mai is a very small, slow growing and compact cherry – growing more like a shrub than a tree. It is perfect for growing in containers. Its branches have an attractive zig-zag pattern, which look good even in winter, which bear small, blush pink flowers.
- Prunus Kursar is small, but spreading with single, vivid deep pink flowers. The leaves are coppery coloured when young, turning deep orange in autumn.
- Prunus Pink Perfection bears drooping clusters of double pink flowers. The leaves are a bronze colour when young, and turn fiery red and orange in autumn.
- Prunus serrula is a small, round-headed tree, with coppery-brown bark, white flowers and yellow autumn foliage colours.
- Prunus x subhirtella Autumnalis produces white, semi-double flowers intermittently from autumn to spring depending on the weather. Leaves turn yellow in autumn.
Planting flowering cherries
Plant bare-root trees between November and March, and container-grown ones any time of year, but preferably in autumn, winter or spring. Dig a hole 60x60cm (2x2ft) and 30cm (12in) deep. Add a layer of organic matter – such as compost or well-rotted manure – to the base of the hole and dig in.
Place the roots in the planting hole and adjust the planting depth so that the tree is planted at the same depth as it was originally growing and the top of the roots are level with the soil surface.
Mix in more organic matter with the excavated soil and fill in the planting hole. Stake the tree with a rigid tree stake and two tree ties so that it is fully supported against the prevailing winds. Water in well, apply a granular general feed over the soil around the tree and add a 5-7.5cm (2-3in) deep mulch of well-rotted garden compost or bark chippings around the root area.
If planting in the lawn, create a turf-free circular bed around the tree with a minimum diameter of 60cm (2ft).
Suggested planting locations and garden types
Flower borders and beds, focal point, city and courtyard gardens.
How to care for flowering cherries
Once planted and properly established, flowering cherries need very little aftercare. They may need watering during prolonged dry periods in summer. Feed with a general granular plant food in spring.
Unless essential, it is best not to carry out any pruning. If pruning is needed, it should be carried out when the tree is actively growing – from May to August – to prevent problems with bacterial canker and silver leaf diseases.
Spring, Autumn, Winter
Spring, Summer, Autumn
Chalky, Clay, Loamy, Sandy
Moist but well-drained
Up to 10m (33ft)
Up to 5m (16ft)
Prunus serrulata ( Amanogawa Japanese Flowering Cherry )
Amanogawa has a growth habit not unlike a Lombardy Poplar. The flowers are pink, nicely fragrant and single to semi-double, sometimes emerging into small black fruits. Young leaves are yellow-green. Height can reach 20 feet, spread a modest 4 to 5 feet. Rounded to horizontal, deciduous tree with beautiful, coppery-red, glossy, peeling bark. Dark green leaves are lance-shaped and tapered to 4 inches long, turning yellow in the fall. White flowers are bowl-shaped to 3/4 inch across, solitary or in groups of 2 to 4, borne as leaves emerge. Flowers are followed by ovoid cherry-like fruit, 1/2 inch long.
Google Plant Images:
Size: Height: 20 ft. to 30 ft.
Width: 20 ft. to 30 ft.
Plant Category: fruits, trees,
Plant Characteristics: decorative berries or fruit, round,
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, long lasting,
Flower Color: pinks,
Tolerances: deer, heat & humidity, pollution, rabbits, seashore,
Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Late Spring
USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: 1 to 9
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 4.5 to 7.5
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Some Clay
Water Range: Normal to Moist
How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
Conditions : Full to Partial Sun
Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Conditions : Moist and Well Drained
Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.
How-to : Pruning Trees After Planting
It is critical to prune trees correctly from the beginning to assure proper growth and development. Young trees can be transplanted in a number of forms: bare root, balled & burlap and in containers. The more stress the plant undergoes in the transplant process, the more pruning that is required to compensate.
Deciduous trees like maples (those that loose their leaves in the fall) can be dug up and sold with their bare roots exposed. Because most of the root system is lost in digging, sufficient top growth should be removed to compensate for this loss. This may be done at the nursery before you buy the plant or you may have to prune at the time of planting. Select and head back the best scaffold branches, i.e. those branches which will form the main lateral structure of the future mature tree. Remove all other extraneous side branches. If the tree seedling does not have branches, allow it to grow to the desired height of branching then pinch it back to stimulate the lower buds to form branches.
Ball and burlap trees are dug up with their root systems somewhat intact. This was mostly done for conifers and broadleaf evergreens, but has become common for deciduous trees as well. Since some root mass is lost in the digging stage, a light pruning is generally called for. Head back the plant to compensate for this loss and to promote branching.
Trees that are grown in containers generally do not loose roots in the transplanting phase. Therefore you do not generally have to prune them unless there is some root injury or limb damage in the planting process.
Once you have your trees planted, be patient. Do not remove shoots from the trunk early on as these allow the tree to grow more rapidly and also shade the tender young trunk from sun-scald. Wait a few years to begin training the tree to its ultimate form.
How-to : Staking Trees
Staking is done differently depending on the size and flexibility of the tree, and the windiness of the planting site. Generally only trees that are planted in windy, exposed locations need to be staked. For most trees, a low stake is preferred, to let the tree move naturally. For windy areas or flexible trees, use a high stake. For trees more than 12 feet tall, use two low stakes on opposite sides of the tree or several guy ropes. The ties used need to accommodate growth and not cause bark damage with friction. Buckle-and-spacer ties can be found at garden centers, they are expandable and have a protective spacer. Ties without spacers should be formed into a figure eight to create padding. Latest studies have shown that when staking a tree, provide enough leeway so that the tree can move back and forth in the wind. Stronger roots will develop this way. If the tree can not move back and forth, these important roots will not develop and the tree might fall over during a storm, once stakes are removed. When planting a tree, stake at the time of planting if staking is a necessity.
How-to : Planting a Tree
Dig out an area for the tree that is about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the container or rootball and the same depth as the container or rootball. Use a pitchfork or shovel to scarify the sides of the hole.
If container-grown, lay the tree on its side and remove the container. Loosen the roots around the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Position tree in center of hole so that the best side faces forward. You are ready to begin filling in with soil.
If planting a balled and burlaped tree, position it in hole so that the best side faces forward. Untie or remove nails from burlap at top of ball and pull burlap back, so it does not stick out of hole when soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap should be removed as it will not decompose like natural burlap. Larger trees often come in wire baskets. Plant as you would a b&b plant, but cut as much of the wire away as possible without actually removing the basket. Chances are, you would do more damage to the rootball by removing the basket. Simply cut away wires to leave several large openings for roots.
Fill both holes with soil the same way. Never amend with less than half original soil. Recent studies show that if your soil is loose enough, you are better off adding little or no soil amendments.
Create a water ring around the outer edge of the hole. Not only will this conseve water, but will direct moisture to perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once tree is established, water ring may be leveled. Studies show that mulched trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3″” layer of pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area. Remove any damaged limbs.
Pest : Aphids
Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.
Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.
Fungi : Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.
Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.
Pest : Caterpillars
Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.
Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.
Diseases : Blight
Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.
Conditions : Deer Tolerant
There are no plants that are 100% deer resistant, but many that are deer tolerant. There are plants that deer prefer over others. You will find that what deer will or will not eat varies in different parts of the country. A lot of it has to do with how hungry they are. Most deer will sample everything at least once, decide if they like it or not and return if favorable. A fence is the good deer barrier. You may go for a really tall one (7 to 8 feet), or try 2 parallel fences, (4 to 5 feet apart). Use a wire mesh fence rather than board, since deer are capable of wiggling through a 12 inch space.
Conditions : Slope Tolerant
Slope tolerant plants are those that have a fibrous root system and are often plants that prefer good soil drainage. These plants assist in erosion control by stabilizing/holding the soil on slopes intact.
Conditions : Wind Tolerant
Plants that are wind tolerant usually have flexible, strong branches that are not brittle. Wind tolerant plants often have thick or waxy leaves that control moisture loss from whipping winds. Native plants are often the best adapted to not only wind, but also soil and other climatic conditions.
Glossary : Deciduous
Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.
Glossary : Tree
Tree: a woody perennial with a crown of branches that begin atop a single stem or trunk. The exception to this rule is multi-trunk trees, which some may argue are really very large shrubs.
Glossary : pH
pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.
Glossary : Viruses
Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.
Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.
Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ – Flowering Cherry
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry – Semi-Double Pink
*height & width at maturity
FORM: Narrow & columnar with an upright branching pattern
GROWTH RATE: Slow to moderate
FOLIAGE: Green serrated foliage, young leaves are copper coloured. Turning to rustic tones of gold & red in Autumn.
FLOWERS: Large, single to semi-double pale pink fragrant flowers. Blossoms appear in mid to late spring
DESCRIPTION: A distinctive flowering cherry, that produces a good display of semi-double soft pink flowers, on a very narrow, fastigiate framework. An ideal tree for small, narrow gardens and any position where lateral space is limited.
LANDSCAPE USES: Excellent flowering tree suitable for all size gardens. Ideal for small, narrow gardens & positions where lateral space is limited.
TOLERANCES: Adaptable to a variety of site conditions, but prefers moist, well drained fertile soils in a position receiving full sun to part shade. Flowers best in full sun.
TREE CARE: Plant in full sun in a well drained and well worked soil. Take care to plant the bud union above the soil level. Water in well and keep soil moist until tree is established. Fertilize when planting and again after new growth appears. Prune tree when planting to encourage new growth.
Prune after flowering finishes each season to promote new seasons growth.
Amanogawa Flowering Cherry Trees
A deciduous fastigiate tree grown mainly for its beautiful flowers which blossom in April. The leaves are greenish bronze then dark green followed by glowing autumn colour of red and orange. Cherries are fully hardy and need full sunshine and will grow in all but waterlogged soil.
A low maintenance tree, cherries need very little pruning, mainly to cut out any diseased or dead wood. Prune in mid-summer if silver leaf is a problem. They do like a good weed, mulch and compost in spring. A small tree and suitable for most gardens. Bees benefit from the flowers.
Common Name: Prunus amanogawa
Soil: Tolerates most soil types – Loam, Sand, Clay, Chalk. Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Position: Full sun
Flowering period April / May
Colour: Pale pink
Hardiness: Fully hardy
Eventual Height/Spread: 7m/4m 25/15ft
Special features: Deciduous columnar ideal for any gardens.
Large clusters of fragrant semi double pink flowers.
Symbolism: The Cherry tree has long been used to attract love. A feminine tree its planet is Venus and its Power is Love.