Outstanding Qualities

This tough shrub rose has a great deal to offer and asks little in return. It originated as a seedling of Rosa rugosa, which is one of the hardiest of all roses. ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ was discovered and named by Mr. Hastrup in Denmark in about 1914. Its color is notable – clear silver-pink – rather than the purplish red of most Rugosa roses. Very fragrant flowers are produced from May until frost, the earlier ones have ripened into rich, crimson tomato-shaped hips while the last flowers are still appearing. This coincides with the brilliant foliage – a mix of gold, russet and sage-green — making quite a show. Due to its colonizing habit is useful for stabilizing banks, and its very prickly stems make it a good barrier plant. It can be sheared into a low hedge. Its thick, dark green, deeply veined leaves are somewhat deer resistant. Bees and butterflies like the flowers, which can also be used in arrangements. The hips are enjoyed by wild birds and can be made into tea or jelly.

Quick Facts

Plant Type: spreading shrub

Foliage Type: deciduous

Plant Height: 5 ft. 0 in. (1.52 meters)

Plant Width/Spread: 5 ft. 0 in. (1.52 meters)

Plant Height-Mature: 8 ft. 0 in. (2.44 meters)

Plant Width-Mature: 8 ft. 0 in. (2.44 meters)

Hardiness: USDA Zones 3 to 9

Flower Color: pink

Sun/Light Exposure: full sun

Water Requirements: drought tolerant

Wildlife Associations: bees, butterflies

Colors & Combos

Great Color Contrasts: burgundy, gold, bronze

Great Color Partners: lavender, purple, silver

Rugosa roses are superb performers, hardy, disease-resistant and resilient.

Position: Tolerant of exposed positions, coastal sites and poor sandy soils. They are repeat-flowering from June onwards with a good display of rose hips in autumn: they also make excellent impenetrable hedges.Give them an open sunny position or partial shade.

Cultivation: They benefit from the addition of Bonemeal and garden compost or well-rotted manure when planting. Rootgrow (beneficial mycorrhizal beneficial fungi) sprinkled on the roots will aid root development. Use a rose fertiliser such as Toprose during the growing season.

Pruning: Newly planted rugosa roses need little initial pruning other than a light trim and the removal of any dead, diseased, rubbing and crossing stems. Once established lightly prune in late summer, after flowering has finished. Congested growth can be thinned and older unproductive wood can be removed to encourage new growth from the base. If a less tall plant is required reduce strong new growth in early March by up to one-third of its length. Shorten strong side shoots to two or three buds.

Rugosa rose

Size & Form

4 to 6 feet high and wide.
Upright, sturdy shrub with stout stems. The branches are often allowed to gracefully arch and develop a spreading form.
Suckers and forms colonies.

Tree & Plant Care

Rosa rugosa is adaptable to many different soil types; including temporary wet, but avoid extremely wet conditions.
Salt tolerant.
Grown on its own roots, making it more hardy than other roses. Winter protection is usually not needed.
Occasional pruning is needed to remove dead canes.

Disease, pests, and problems

Thick leaves are less prone to fungal problems, rust and Japanese beetles.

Disease, pest, and problem resistance

Thorny stems deter rabbit and rodent damage.

Native geographic location and habitat

Japan, China, Korea

Attracts birds, pollinators, or wildlife

Many species of birds are attracted to the fruit which ripens in August and often persists through winter.

Bark color and texture

Stout, bristly stems are incredibly spiny, densely covered in 1/4 inch needle-like thorns.

Leaf or needle arrangement, size, shape, and texture

Alternate, pinnately-compound leaf is made up of 5 to 9 smaller oblong leaflets, slightly serrated, with heavily veined and wrinkled (hence the rugosa) texture.
The dark green leaves turn a beautiful orange-red fall color.

Flower arrangement, shape, and size

Clusters of mostly single, 2 to 3 inch wide, pink flowers with showy yellow stamens open in June and continue throughout the summer with sporadic blooms until frost. Flowers are sweetly fragrant.
Hybrid colors include red, pink, lavender, and white and can be single or double flowers.

Fruit, cone, nut, and seed descriptions

Attractive, large, one inch, cherry-like fruits ( rose hips) can be bright red to orange-red. Fruits ripen in August and often persist into winter.

Cultivars and their differences

Blanc Double de Coubert Rugosa Rose (Rosa rugosa ‘Blanc Double de Coubert’): Grows 4 to 5 feet high and wide. This vigorous grower is very resistant to black spot and powdery mildew. A sturdy shrub rose with stout, upright stems. Clean, glossy dark foliage and clusters of semi-double, white, highly fragrant flowers with yellow stamens. Plant rarely produces hips.

Charles Albanel (Rosa rugosa ‘Charles Albanel’): A small, 2 to 3 feet high and wide mounded shrub with double mauve flower in summer, followed by bright orange-red rose hips. Fall color is a golden yellow.

Frau Dagmar Hastrup Rugosa Rose (Rosa rugosa ‘Frau Dagmar Hastrup’): Grows 3 to 4 feet high and wide. This vigorous grower is very resistant to black spot and powdery mildew. Fragrant, silvery-pink, single blooms with showy yellow stamens appear in June. This prolific bloomer produces large, red hips in great quantity that color as early as July. The plant’s rich, dark green foliage turns an excellent yellow to orange color in the fall.

Hansa Rugosa Rose (Rosa rugosa ‘Hansa’): Grows 4 to 5 feet high and wide with rounded habit. Fragrant, reddish purple flowers followed by showy red rose hips. The dark green, crinkly foliage turns a golden orange in fall.

Purple Pavement Rugosa Rose (Rosa rugosa ‘Purple Pavement’): A 3 to 4 feet high and wide shrub with umbrella-like habit. Flowers are a ruffled purplish-red accented with yellow stamens. Attractive yellow rose hips contrasts well against the dark green foliage.

Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ (Rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’)

Botanical name

Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’

Other names

Rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’, Rosa ‘Frau Dagmar Hartopp’, Rugosa rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’, Rosa ‘Dagmar Hastrup’


Rosa Rosa

Variety or Cultivar

‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ _ ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ is a compact, upright, deciduous shrub with thorny stems bearing pinnate leaves divided into ovate, toothed, glossy, veined, bright green leaflets and single, strongly fragrant, light to mid-pink flowers from summer into autumn. Flowers are followed by large, red hips.

Native to

Garden origin






Compact, Upright


RHS AGM (Award of Garden Merit)

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Pale-pink in Summer

Bright-green in Summer

How to care

Watch out for

Specific pests

Aphids , Caterpillars , Deer , Glasshouse red spider mite , Leafhoppers , Rabbits , Rose leaf-rolling sawfly , Scale insects

Specific diseases

Powdery mildew , Rose black spot , Rose rust

General care


Pruning group 20. Avoid pruning after flowering if hips are desired.

Propagation methods

Budding, Hardwood cuttings

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Where to grow

Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ (Rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’) will reach a height of 1.5m and a spread of 1.5m after 2-5 years.

Suggested uses

Beds and borders, City, Coastal, Cottage/Informal, Flower Arranging, Hedging/Screens


Plant in fertile, humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil in full sun. This cultivar tolerates poor soil and some shade. Feed and mulch in late winter or early spring, feeding again in early summer. Best not to plant roses in soil where other roses have previously been planted. Avoid watering from overhead.

Soil type

Chalky, Clay, Loamy, Sandy (will tolerate most soil types)

Soil drainage

Moist but well-drained, Well-drained

Soil pH

Acid, Alkaline, Neutral


Full Sun


North, South, East, West


Exposed, Sheltered

UK hardiness Note: We are working to update our ratings. Thanks for your patience.

Hardy (H4)

USDA zones

Zone 9, Zone 8, Zone 7, Zone 6, Zone 5, Zone 4, Zone 3

Defra’s Risk register #1

Plant name

Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ (Rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’)

Common pest name

grape ground pearl

Scientific pest name

Margarodes vitis



Current status in UK


Likelihood to spread to UK (1 is very low – 5 is very high)

Impact (1 is very low – 5 is very high)

General biosecurity comments

Main pathway; Vitis spp. plants for planting; already prohibited. However; further consideration of other pathways is required.

Defra’s Risk register #2

Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ (Rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’)

Phyllocoptes fructiphilus



Pest of economical and socially important host in the UK; which is currently absent. If introduced it has the potential to cause significant damage. Statutory action against findings is justified and regulation of the pest advised.

Defra’s Risk register #3

Rosa ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ (Rose ‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’)

Rose Rosette Virus

Virus or Viroid


Pest of economical and socially important host in the UK; which is currently absent. If introduced it has the potential to cause significant damage. Statutory action against findings is justified and regulation of the pest advised.

About this section

Our plants are under greater threat than ever before. There is increasing movement of plants and other material traded from an increasing variety of sources. This increases the chances of exotic pests arriving with imported goods and travellers, as well as by natural means. Shoot is working with Defra to help members to do their part in preventing the introduction and spread of invasive risks.

Traveling or importing plants? Please read “Don’t risk it” advice here

Suspected outbreak?

Date updated: 7th March 2019 For more information visit: https://planthealthportal.defra.gov.uk/

( Fru Dagmar Hastrup Rose )

‘Fru Dagmar Hastrup’ is a hardy hybrid rugosa rose of speading habit producing shallowly cupped, single, clove-scented, light pink flowers with leathery mid-green leaves. Also sold in plant nurseries as Frau Dagmar Hartopp rose. In general, roses are a large group of flowering shrubs, most with showy flowers that are single-petalled to fully double petalled. Leaves are typically medium to dark green, glossy, and ovate, with finely toothed edges. Vary in size from 1/2 inch to 6 inches, five petals to more than 30, and in nearly every color. Often the flowers are very fragrant. Most varieties grow on long canes that sometimes climb. Unfortunately, this favorite plant is quite susceptible to a variety of diseases and pests, many of which can be controlled with good cultural practices.

Important Info : Also sold in plant nurseries as Frau Dagmar Hartopp rose.

Google Plant Images:


Cultivar: Fru Dagmar Hastrup
Family: Rosaceae
Size: Height: 3 ft. to 4 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 4 ft.
Plant Category: edibles, ground covers, perennials, shrubs,
Plant Characteristics: edible flowers, spreading,
Foliage Characteristics: deciduous,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, long lasting, single,
Flower Color: pinks,
Tolerances: deer,


Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Mid Fall
USDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 9
AHS Heat Zone: 3 to 9
Light Range: Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 4.5 to 8
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam

Water Range: Normal to Moist

Plant Care


How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.


Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.


Conditions : Moist and Well Drained
Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.


How-to : Pruning Flowering Shrubs
It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.

Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers – in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.

Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering: Kerria
How-to : Planting Shrubs
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.

Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you’ve positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won’t wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.

If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.
How-to : Planting Roses
Plant roses where they will receive full sun (at least 6 hours) and ample moisture and nutrients. Allow adequate spacing (3 to 6 feet apart depending on the climate) as good air circulation will inhibit foliar diseases. Before planting, soak bare root plants in water for several hours to ensure they are well hydrated. Select a soil site that is well drained. For clay soils amend the soil with organic matter or prepare raised beds. Dig a planting hole big enough to spread out the roots completely, once the center of plant has been set atop a mound. Fill hole with water before planting. Remove broken canes or roots and plant the bush so that the graft union (swollen knob from which the canes grow) is just above the soil level. Fill hole with amended soil and water well. Mound rich soil over the graft union to protect it from the sun. Remove this once leaves have appeared. Container grown roses can be planted almost anytime of year and would be done just as if planting a shrub.
How-to : Planting Perennials
Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.

The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.

To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.

To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.


Pest : Thrips
Thrips are small, winged insects that attack many types of plants and thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). They can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 300 eggs in a life span of 45 days without mating. Most of the damage to plants is caused by the young larvae which feed on tender leaf and flower tissue. This leads to distorted growth, injured flower petals and premature flower drop. Thrips also can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down and use screening on windows to keep them out. Remove or discard infested plants, keep them away from non-infested plants. Trap with yellow sticky cards or take advantage of natural enemies such as predatory mites. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Consult your local garden center professional or county Cooperative extension office for legal chemical recommendations.
Pest : Spider Mites
Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.
Pest : Whiteflies
Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.
Pest : Aphids
Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.
Fungi : Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew is usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will be dwarfed and often drops early.

Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments. Sanitation is a must – clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris in the fall and destroy.
Pest : Caterpillars
Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.
Fungi : Black Spot
A known rose disease, Black Spot appears on young leaves as irregular black circles, often having a yellow halo. Circles or spore colonies may grow to 1/2 inch in diameter. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off, only to produce more leaves that will follow the same pattern. Roses may not make it through the winter if black spot is severe. The fungus will also affect the size and quality of flowers.

Prevention and Control:Plant resistant varieties for your area. Always water from the ground, never overhead. Practice good sanitation – clean up and destroy debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. When pruning roses, even deadheading, dip pruners in a bleach / water solution after each cut. If a plant seems to have chronic black spot, remove it. A 2-3 inch thick layer of mulch at the base of plant reduces splashing. Do not wait until black spot is a huge problem to control! Start early. Spray with a fungicide labeled for black spot on roses.
Pest : Scale Insects
Scales are insects, related to mealy bugs, that can be a problem on a wide variety of plants – indoor and outdoor. Young scales crawl until they find a good feeding site. The adult females then lose their legs and remain on a spot protected by its hard shell layer. They appear as bumps, often on the lower sides of leaves. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Scales can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.

Prevention and Control: Once established they are hard to control. Isolate infested plants away from those that are not infested. Consult your local garden center professional or Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal recommendation regarding their control. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden.
Diseases : Blight
Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.


Conditions : Deer Tolerant
There are no plants that are 100% deer resistant, but many that are deer tolerant. There are plants that deer prefer over others. You will find that what deer will or will not eat varies in different parts of the country. A lot of it has to do with how hungry they are. Most deer will sample everything at least once, decide if they like it or not and return if favorable. A fence is the good deer barrier. You may go for a really tall one (7 to 8 feet), or try 2 parallel fences, (4 to 5 feet apart). Use a wire mesh fence rather than board, since deer are capable of wiggling through a 12 inch space.
How-to : Cut Flowers
Flowers suitable for cutting maintain their form for several days when properly conditioned and placed in water or soaked oasis. A cut flower should have a fairly strong, long stem, making it easy to work with in arrangements. There are many short stem flowers that make good cut flowers too, but they look best when floated in a bowl or clustered and placed in a juice glass size vase.

For best results, always cut flowers early in the morning, preferably before dew has had a chance to dry. Always make cuts with a sharp knife or pruners and plunge flowers or foliage into a bucket of water. Store in a cool place until you are ready to work with them, this will keep flowers from opening. Always re-cut stems and change water frequently. Washing vases or containers to rid of existing bacteria helps increase their life, as well.
Edibles : Edible Flowers
Some flowers are edible or have edible portions that are not only beautiful, but nutritious and tasty. Buds, flowers, leaves, stems, and roots are selected from designated edible varieties. Plant as you would a regular flower, but use only organic practices. If you are not a total organic gardener, separate growing areas should be used for the growing of edible flowers.

When portions of edible flowers are desired, pull petals or edible portions from fresh flowers and snip off the petals from the base of the flower. Remember to always wash flowers thoroughly making certain any residue or dirt has been removed. Give them a gentle bath in water and then dip the petals in ice water to perk them up. Drain on paper towels. Petals and whole flowers may be stored for a short time in plastic bags in refrigeration. Freeze whole small flowers in ice rings or cubes. Make sure you know what the flower is before you eat it; have an accurate identification done.
Glossary : Mass Planting
Mass is one of the elements of design and relates directly to balance. Mass planting is defined as the grouping of three or more of the same type of plants in one area. When massing plants, keep in mind what visual effect they will have. Small properties require smaller masses where larger properties can handle larger masses or sweeps of plants.
Glossary : Deciduous
Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.
Glossary : Perennial
Perennial: traditionally a non-woody plant that lives for two or more growing seasons.
Glossary : Shrub
Shrub: is a deciduous or evergreen woody perennial that has multiple branches that form near its base.
Glossary : Fragrant
Fragrant: having fragrance.
Glossary : Plant Characteristics
Plant characteristics define the plant, enabling a search that finds specific types of plants such as bulbs, trees, shrubs, grass, perennials, etc.
Glossary : Flower Characteristics
Flower characteristics can vary greatly and may help you decide on a “”look or feel”” for your garden. If you’re looking for fragrance or large, showy flowers, click these boxes and possibilities that fit your cultural conditions will be shown. If you have no preference, leave boxes unchecked to return a greater number of possibilities.
Glossary : Landscape Uses
By searching Landscape Uses, you will be able to pinpoint plants that are best suited for particular uses such as trellises, border plantings, or foundations.
Glossary : Edibles
An edible is a plant that has a part or all of it that can be safely consumed in some way.
How-to : Getting the Most Out of Cut Flowers
Cut flowers bring the garden into your home. While some cut flowers have a long vase life, most are highly perishable. How cut flowers are treated when you first bring them home can significantly increase how long they last.

The most important thing to consider is getting sufficient water taken up into the cut stem. Insufficient water can result in wilting and short-lived flowers. Bent neck of roses, where the flower head droops, is the result of poor water uptake. To maximize water uptake, first re-cut the stems at an angle so that the vascular system (the “”plumbing”” of the stem) is clear. Next immerse the cut stems in warm water.

Remember when the flower is cut, it is cut off from its food supply. Once water is taken care of, food is the resource that will run out next. The plants stems naturally feed the flowers with sugars. If you add a bit of sugar (1 tsp.) to the vase water, this will help feed the flower stems and extend their vase life.

Bacteria will build up in vase water and eventually clog up the stem so the flower cannot take up water. To prevent this, change the vase water frequently and make a new cut in the stems every few days.

Floral preservatives, available from florists, contain sugars, acids and bacteriacides that can extend cut flower life. These come in small packets and are generally available where cut flowers are sold. If used properly, these can extend the vase life of some cut flowers 2 to 3 times when compared with just plain water in the vase.
How-to : Winter Protection for Roses
F. Start off by keeping your plants healthy and vigorous going into the winter – continue to water them properly until the ground freezes. Stop feeding at least 6 weeks before the first frost date as this is the time to start hardening off the plants for the winter. In really cold climates, after a couple of hard freezes, mound soil or heavy mulch 1 foot over the base of plant to protect the graft union. Cut back long canes to 4 foot lengths and bind them together to prevent injury in the winter. Remove soil mounds after all danger of hard frost has passed in the spring.

In milder climates, this process is not necessary, but a good layer of mulch and continued watering up to frost and periodically through winter is a good idea. The best time to prune no matter where you live is at the end of the dormant season, when buds are beginning to swell.
Glossary : Viruses
Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.
Glossary : Growth Buds
Plant stems contain numerous buds that will grow and renew a plant when stimulated by pruning. There are three basic types of buds: terminal, lateral and dormant. Terminal buds are at the tips of twigs or branches. They grow to make the branch or twig longer. In some cases they may give rise to a flower. If you cut the tip of a branch and remove the terminal bud, this will encourage the lateral buds to grow into side branches resulting in a thicker, bushier plant. Lateral buds are lower down on the twig and are often at the point of leaf attachment. Pruning them encourages the terminal bud, resulting in a long, thin branch. Dormant buds may remain inactive in the bark or stem and will only grow after the plant is cut back.
Glossary : Ground Cover
Aground cover is any low growing plant that is planted in a mass to cover the ground. Shrubs, vines, perennials, and annuals can all be considered ground covers if they are grouped in this fashion. Ground covers can beautify an area, help reduce soil erosion, and the need to weed.
Glossary : Fertilize
Fertilize just before new growth begins with a complete fertilizer.
Glossary : Pruning
Now is the preferred time to prune this plant.

Frau Dagmar Hartopp Rose flowers

Frau Dagmar Hartopp Rose flowers

(Photo courtesy of NetPS Plant Finder)

Height: 3 feet

Spread: 4 feet


Hardiness Zone: 4a

Group/Class: Rugosa Rose


An old-fashioned shrub rose, featuring very fragrant 3″ single soft pink flowers in early summer; low growing and spreading, adaptable and disease-resistant, makes a great flowering groundcover; all roses need full sun and well-drained soil; ever blooming

Ornamental Features

Frau Dagmar Hartopp Rose is draped in stunning fragrant shell pink flowers with yellow eyes at the ends of the branches from late spring to late summer, which emerge from distinctive rose flower buds. The flowers are excellent for cutting. It has dark green foliage throughout the season. The oval compound leaves turn an outstanding coppery-bronze in the fall. The fruits are showy red hips displayed from mid to late fall.

Landscape Attributes

Frau Dagmar Hartopp Rose is a multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with an upright spreading habit of growth. Its average texture blends into the landscape, but can be balanced by one or two finer or coarser trees or shrubs for an effective composition.

This is a high maintenance shrub that will require regular care and upkeep, and is best pruned in late winter once the threat of extreme cold has passed. Gardeners should be aware of the following characteristic(s) that may warrant special consideration;

  • Disease
  • Spiny

Frau Dagmar Hartopp Rose is recommended for the following landscape applications;

  • Mass Planting
  • Hedges/Screening
  • General Garden Use

Planting & Growing

Frau Dagmar Hartopp Rose will grow to be about 3 feet tall at maturity, with a spread of 4 feet. It tends to fill out right to the ground and therefore doesn’t necessarily require facer plants in front. It grows at a fast rate, and under ideal conditions can be expected to live for approximately 20 years.

This shrub should only be grown in full sunlight. It does best in average to evenly moist conditions, but will not tolerate standing water. It is not particular as to soil type or pH. It is somewhat tolerant of urban pollution. This particular variety is an interspecific hybrid.

Sizes Available:

18″ Potted

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