- Dig a hole that is slightly wider but about as deep as the rose’s root ball. This will generally be about 15 to 18 inches deep by 18 to 24 inches wide.
- Mix a handful of bone meal or superphosphate into the soil you removed and save it for refilling the hole once the rose is planted. This will help the rose bush acclimate to its new home. Don’t feed it with anything else at planting time. You want the roots to take hold before the top starts sending out a lot of new growth.
- If your rose came in a container, gently remove it from the pot and loosen the roots a bit so they will start to extend out as soon as they are planted.
- If your rose is bare-root, soak the roots for about an hour before planting to ensure they don’t dry out.
- Make a mound in the center of the hole with the soil and bone meal or superphosphate mix. Make the mound high enough so that when you place the rose bush on top of it, the knobby graft union is barely below the soil level. When the plant settles, the graft union should be fully buried, about 1 inch underground.
- Gardeners planting roses in warm climates may prefer to leave the bud union above ground since there is little chance of frost damage. You can bury the graft no matter where you are gardening, but when it is underground, there is always the chance that sprouts will grow from the rootstock, resulting in a plant different from the one grafted on top.
- Spread the roots down the sides of the mound. Begin filling in the hole with soil and superphosphate, keeping the roots as spread out as possible. Water the soil when the hole is just about filled to help settle it in. Continue filling the hole and gently pat down.
- Water deeply and apply 1 to 2 inches of mulch. Water at least once per week, to get your rose plant established. You will know it has acclimated when it starts to send out new growth.
- Planting Roses
- When to Plant
- How to Plant
- How To Plant Your Heirloom Rose(s)
- Our Roots
- Over Here, We Play with Dirt.
- “A plant for everyone at their fingertips.”
- Our Beginning
- Rooting Roses from Cuttings or Slips is easy and fun. Rose propagation is so rewarding, get more roses for free! Simple enough for beginner gardeners, fun for everyone.
- Important Note:
- Why Grow roses from cuttings?
- Eat the Potatoes
- How to Take your Rose Cuttings or Slips
- Wound the rose cuttings
- Coat rose cutting end in Rooting Hormone
- Growing medium to Root Rose Cuttings or Slips
- Put rose cuttings into a Terra Cotta Pot
- Cover to maintain humidity
- Keep rose cuttings moist
- Re Pot your Rooted Rose cuttings or slips
- Most Read
- Rose Bushes
When to Plant
- Plant Heirloom Roses anytime from spring to early fall depending on the weather in your area.
- Take temperatures into consideration. Roses need to be in the ground at least 6 weeks before your first frost in the fall or planted just after your last frost in the spring.
- Allow time to establish before it gets cold and they go dormant. If they do not have enough roots established, they will not be able to break dormancy in the spring.
- Waiting until the ground has warmed up in the spring will ensure that the rose will establish quickly and start to produce the desired growth.
How to Plant
How To Plant Your Heirloom Rose(s)
- Begin with a soil test to determine pH and nutrient levels so that corrections can be made if needed. A pH of 6.5 is the point where nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium (NPK), plus trace minerals are most easily available to your flowers. Arid regions tend to have alkaline soils and regions with heavy rainfall tend to have acidic soils.
- Dig a BIG HOLE. It is the single most important factor in growing beautiful, large rose bushes. The hole needs to be 2 feet x 2 feet. Plant roots tend to stay inside the holes that they are planted in. By digging a big hole, the roots have room to spread. The more area the roots cover, the better the rose can absorb water and nutrients providing the desired top growth.
- Prep the soil. Mix 1/3 peat moss with soil from the top 2/3 of the hole. Discard the soil from the bottom of the hole, as it is normally not as fertile as the top. Add 1 cup of bone meal to the mixture, and then place well-rotted cow or horse manure in the bottom 6 inches of the hole. It will provide food for the rose when the roots reach it after the first growing season. Manure and some compost can be hot, so putting it only in the bottom of the hole will prevent burning the fine feeder roots.
- Fill the hole with enough soil mixture so the soil will sit 1 inch lower than the level of the surrounding area.
- Squeeze the pot to loosen the plant, place one hand over the surface and turn upside down, catching the rose as it slides from the pot. Set the plant in place.
- Fill with remaining soil mixture and water well. Using a bagged potting mix with fertilizer added to it could burn or stunt the young root development.
- Water newly planted roses 2 to 3 times per week until established. Afterwards, give them a deep watering (2 inches) once a week or, if extremely warm, twice a week.
- Water at the base of the plants to keep the foliage dry and prevent diseases. Well-watered roses are more disease resistant, as water deprivation stresses plants and makes them susceptible to disease and pests. If that is not an option, water early in the day making sure the rose has time to dry out before nightfall.
- Water well before and after feeding or treating with anything.
- Feed Heirloom’s roses with a liquid only fertilizer the first season. Roses are heavy feeders and the granular fertilizers are too hot and will burn the fine baby roots and kill the rose. We recommend Alaska Fish Fertilizer which may be used every three weeks while blooming. Do not use any other fertilizer that starts in a granular form.
- A granular type fertilizer can be used for the second season. A healthy own-root rose will reward you with beautiful blooms for many years to come.
Over Here, We Play with Dirt.
“A plant for everyone at their fingertips.”
In Noah, it’s our belief that there are plants made for everyone.
From indoor to outdoors, to the space on your desks, brighten your life with greenery.
What’s not to love about our green friends? With care, they purify the air we breathe, reduce stress and they simply look great anywhere. But work and city-living prevents us from picking out plants at leisure.
Here’s how we make it easy for you. Choose your plants from our webstore and we’ll have it delivered to your convenience.
As much as we love all our plants, we thought, well, why not give them a forever home with you? Get yourself a natural roommate.
Noah Garden began to take root when our subsidiary company, had excess garden products to sell from their landscape projects.
As demand for our pots increased, we envisioned that a wider online platform was needed that offered all sorts of garden products, plants, and had complimentary planting and delivering services.
Our goal is to inspire our clients to discover the joys of living with greens while ensuring that shopping with Noah is an enjoyable and valuable experience.
Rooting Roses from Cuttings or Slips is easy and fun. Rose propagation is so rewarding, get more roses for free! Simple enough for beginner gardeners, fun for everyone.
You can easily root roses from cuttings or slips. I show you how quickly and easily. Some roses are harder to root than others so don’t be discouraged if you don’t have success, it could be the rose and not you.
PIN for later!
For my latest window sill propagation method see below where it says UPDATE
It is no secret I love roses. Almost any rose is top notch in my book but I have a special affinity for old roses , English Roses and their French counterpart, Romanticas.
(when choosing roses to take cuttings from please only use non-patented roses otherwise we are infringing on patents and that is considered stealing, there are tons of old roses that are not patented and they are easy care, tough plants)
I have shared a post on Rooting Lilacs from cuttings and my set up for roses is similar as far as the fish tank and box of soil mix.
But if you don’t have that much room or you want a smaller set up? Voila’ I have you covered.
Why Grow roses from cuttings?
I love to grow roses from cuttings because it just fun but it is an easy way to get more of the roses that you love. Plus it can save you if you lose your favorite roses for some reason or other.
In the article below I show you how I saved a rose that was dying from a rodent attack. But I could just have easily lost it forever.
Related: How I saved a Dying rose
Having spares that you have started from cuttings is a good insurance policy.
Eat the Potatoes
Just so you know I have tried the potato method that I have heard so much about and is popular on Pinterest, it just has not worked for me.
I have tried that method a few times and all I got were little potatoes and none of the cuttings rooted.
Zero, zip, nada!
At the same time the cuttings I started using my other methods I had 80% success rate.
So save the potatoes for eating and just go this route for rooting roses, it is so much easier and more successful.
So here we go.
How to Take your Rose Cuttings or Slips
Take your rose cutting from a cane that has just finished blooming, you can see the spent blooms here.
My favorite tool for this is Fiskars Bypass Pruners
Some say getting the heel wood is the best but I cannot attest to that.
I should do some experiments and see if it works better than just a cane cut below a leaf bud.
About 6 inch length is good and you want the cane to be close to the diameter of a pencil, it can be a bit smaller around but that gives you an idea.
Wound the rose cuttings
This step is not absolutely necessary but it is claimed to speed up rooting.
To wound the heels of the cutting I scrape the end of the cutting with a very sharp knife or edge of my pruners to reveal the white layer, which will help in rooting.
I have also just stuck the canes as they are above straight into the rooting hormone and not wounded them and it has worked but wounding them supposedly produces more roots faster.
Wounding the cuttings exposes more of the Cambium layer and here is the definition of that right from a dictionary:
Definition of CAMBIUM. : a thin formative layer between the xylem and phloem of most vascular plants that gives rise to new cells and is responsible for secondary growth.
You can also wound the rose cutting by slicing a straight line with a razor, sharp knife, or xacto knife straight into the cane and not scrape away the green part.
Coat rose cutting end in Rooting Hormone
After you have wounded your rose cutting or slips, brush the wounded ends with a rooting hormone or solution. This speeds up the rooting process.
Right now I am loving this stuff for rooting, it roots things faster and more successfully.
Hormex 8 Hormone Rooting Powder #8
It was recommended to me by a local Rose Society member that roots hundreds of roses each year.
But I have used Olivia’s Cloning Gel and Garden Safe Take Root with success.
Growing medium to Root Rose Cuttings or Slips
Mix up a growing medium of 1/3 perlite and 2/3 potting soil. Get a non pre-fertilized mix.
Put your soil in a pot that is wide enough for your cover to fit over but have a space around the rim. I have no issues with fungus or disease so I don’t worry about getting sterilized soil. You can pasteurize your soil mix if you feel it is needed.
My friend who has rooted cuttings or slips, as she calls them, for 50 plus years loves to use clean sand. It works great too.
I am now testing my cuttings in mostly perlite and so far so good.
Put rose cuttings into a Terra Cotta Pot
(See below for a more updated variation I am using now)
Right now I am using terracotta pots for rooting plants as I have found that because it breathes I have even more success than in plastic pots.
Related: Why I love terra cotta pots
Also by viewing the side of the pot I can tell if the soil is drying out, the clay shows if their is moisture present in the soil.
Put your canes down into the potting mix and water in well.
Cover to maintain humidity
Cover your rose cuttings or slips.
My cover is a large plastic mayonnaise jar from Mayo we get at Costco. I like the wider size as I can fit more cuttings in the pot at once.
Some like to use plastic bags or wrap but I have found that to be too fiddily. Others have used a 2 liter clear soda bottle but we don’t drink soda so this works for me.
Keep rose cuttings moist
Here you can see the space between my cover and the pot.
This is where I will water when I need to. See the darker color of the pot when it is moist.
The base looks the same and when I see it drying out I know to water a bit. It is important to have a loose mix as you don’t want to drown the cuttings but you don’t want them to dry out either.
Place in a bright place where it does not get direct sun. Direct sunlight will make it too hot for the cuttings and kill them off.
Before you know it you will have beautiful roots coming from your rose cuttings.
Re Pot your Rooted Rose cuttings or slips
Don’t worry about the roots intertwining from all four canes.
I just pop all the cuttings and soil out of the pot (once I know there are good roots) and I put it in a tub of water, the soil washes away and the roots slide apart.
Re-pot each rooted rose cutting in its own pot and let it get big and strong.
This past Summer and Fall I tried another way to root roses..the essentials are the same but this container is so awesome and for the most part free!
My husband loves the frozen frappuccinos at coffee places and his empty cups are the best containers I have used so far to root roses.
They are so easy!
Just put some holes in the bottom (I use a metal skewer heated over a flame to melt holes into the bottom) of the cleaned cup.
Add your soil mix and poke the canes down into it.
I write the Rose name on the cup and lid so I know which ones are which.
See the video of how I do this here, just tap.
Let the top of the canes come through the hole in the lid. I did 4 to 5 canes per cup.
I like the taller cups better but it still works in the shorter ones.
The domed lids are perfect as the hole in the center allows air to get in but still keeps the moisture levels high enough and I have not had any issue with mildew.
Wrap the base of the cup with foil, this prevent sunlight from creating the green algae. Foil is easy to remove and replace to check for roots or to monitor it for moistness.
Another bonus is it is easy to water through the top hole when needed.
I really do like being able to see when they have rooted!
I will let them get tons of roots before I separate them and pot them up into larger pots. For now they are doing great just in the cups.
This works great because I can bring them in and put in on a bright windowsill. No direct sun though.
Sign up and get access to the printout worksheet of this post so you can file it or print it for future reference.
Want something for your new roses to grow up…
Here is an easy DIY Arbor built from our Obelisk design!
You May Also Enjoy…
Start Geraniums from Cuttings
Dahlias from Cuttings
Propagate Clematis by Layering
Propagate Perennials by Root Divisions
Versatile roses come in an amazing variety of shapes and sizes. They can climb, cascade, ramble, conceal and decorate.
You can plant them in garden beds, use them on archways and pergolas or drape them over rose obelisks.
Groundcover varieties are ideal for growing over banks, as a mass display or cascading out of containers. They can also be used as low hedges to line pathways or garden beds.
Plant a climbing rose at least 450mm from a wall, leaning it towards the wall so it can be easily tied to the support as it grows
Help them thrive
Roses are hardy plants and with just a little care, they’ll flourish.
POSITION where they will receive at least six hours of sun a day and have protection from harsh winds.
PLANT in well-drained soil, enriched with organic matter. Dig in cow manure or compost about 4-6 weeks before planting. Add liquid lime to acidic soils.
WATER regularly and deeply the first year after planting. Established plants only need a deep watering once a week. Water early in the morning at ground level to help reduce fungal diseases.
FEED in spring, summer and early autumn with Yates Dynamic Lifter Plus Flower Food, an organic fertiliser or
a complete rose or citrus food. Alternate between chemical and organic feeds.
MULCH in spring after feeding to keep the roots cool and moist, and suppress weeds. Apply a 50mm layer of lucerne hay, keeping it away from the stem. Top up in summer, if needed.
Plant roses in winter
The best time to plant roses is in winter when they are dormant. Buy them as bare-rooted plants that are wrapped in plastic or hessian.
UNPACK the plant, shake the roots free of packing material, then soak them in a bucket of water.
DIG a hole about 500mm wide and deep enough for the bud union to be 25-50mm above the soil level.
MAKE a mound of soil in the centre of the hole and position the rose on top. Backfill the hole, making sure the bud union remains at the appropriate height above the soil level.
FIRM the soil around the rose, then water in using one full 9L watering can. Add more soil, if needed, and mulch with lucerne hay, keeping it away from the stem.
TIP Don’t fertilise a newly planted rose until new growth begins in spring.
Firm the soil around the rose, then water in using one full 9L watering can
Grow coriander, dill, sweet Alice and lavender around roses to attract beneficial insects. Image: Alamy
Dealing with disease
Keep your roses healthy by spotting pests and diseases and treating them.
BLACK SPOT Causes yellow leaves with black spots. Bin any fallen leaves and use Eco-Organic Eco-Fungicide or Yates Fungus Gun to spray the plant.
pOWDERY MILDEW A white powdery growth on leaves, stems and buds.
Spray with Yates Rose Gun Advanced
or Eco-Organic Eco-Fungicide.
APHIDS Sucking insects that distort new growth. Hose off and squash with your fingers or spray with an insecticide.
scale Small white or brown lumps attached to stems. Spray with white oil or scrape them off with your fingernail.
THRIPS Minute insects that suck the sap of flowers and buds, browning the petals. Spray with an insecticide such as Eco-Organic Hippo Enhanced Eco-Oil.
TWO-SPOTTED MITE Tiny sap-sucking insects that turn the leaves grey and mottled. Spray with an insecticide such as Yates Rose Gun Advanced
When to prune
It is necessary to prune roses to reinvigorate the plants before they produce a new harvest of blooms.
Repeat-flowering climbing and bush roses are pruned in June and July in frost-free climates, and in late August and early September in cold climates.
Start by removing the dead wood and then the old, unproductive wood. Old wood has a rough bark with a dull, grey appearance while young wood has smooth red or green bark.
Arm yourself with long gloves, sharp secateurs and a pruning saw.
CUT the old wood back to a strong young branch, or if there isn’t one, back to the bud union. Remove any branches crowding or crossing over healthy branches, then cut out twiggy growth.
PRUNE the remaining growth back by a third to a half. Make the cut about 5mm above a bud that points outwards from the centre of the plant, angling the cut slightly so it slopes away from the bud.
TIP Once-flowering climbers such as banksias and species roses that only bloom in spring are pruned after they have flowered.
You can prune roses for a special event by working on the basis that they’ll flower about 42 days after pruning
Prevent the spread of fungal diseases, including the dreaded black spot, by collecting all rose clippings and leaves and putting them in the rubbish bin rather than the compost.
Spray with lime sulphur to get rid of any lingering fungi.
Time to transplant
Winter is a good time to move a rose that is growing in the wrong position.
Drive a spade deep into the soil 350mm from the trunk, continuing around the rose until it lifts easily from the ground.
Cut the branches back by two-thirds and replant. Water with a seaweed solution, then water regularly until re-established.
How to take rose cuttings
Most roses can be propagated from cuttings, and the best time to take them is from April to July so the roots will be produced over the winter months. Choose stems of the current season’s growth with three leaf sets either side.
When it comes to expressions of love and beauty, it’s hard to go wrong with rose plants. Timeless and elegant, rose bushes and flower bushes anchor and accent your landscape with character. Surround yourself with the scent of fresh rose bushes and flower bushes in your very own garden of rose plants.
Choosing the Right Rose Bushes, Rose Plants & Flower Bushes
From climbing rose bushes and flower bushes to knock out roses and floribunda roses, you’ll find what you’re looking for at The Home Depot.
If you’re ready to add some classic color to your yard with climbing rose bushes or flower bushes, but unsure which varieties match your needs, we can help. Consider how much yard space you can dedicate to letting your climbing rose bushes grow and how much time you’re able to spend nurturing your garden.
Climbing rose bushes can rise anywhere from eight to 20 feet on arbors, fences, trellises and larger mailboxes. As climbing rose bushes continue to grow, be sure to monitor their progress and use rose ties to stabilize new growth and point the climbing in the preferred direction.
Hybrid tea roses grow tall with minimum foliage and have single blooms on each long stem. Hybrid tea roses are usually the type of roses you see in arrangements and can be kept alive in vases for several days after they’re cut.
Knock out roses are among the most popular variety of rose bushes. Knock out roses are easy to grow and disease resistant. Knock out roses are also a favorite of florists.
In addition to knock out roses, we carry several other options and colors of rose bushes and rose shrubs, including red rose bushes, grandiflora roses, white rose bushes, pink rose bushes and purple rose bushes.
Let Us Show You
If you’re not sure where to begin with your rose bushes and rose plants, our How-To Guides can help point you in the right direction. We can also give you planting and maintenance tips for your rose plants and show you how to prune your rose bushes.