Golden Showers Climbing Rose

An easily managed climber with large golden yellow blooms and a sweet fragrance, ideal for fences, arches and pergolas.

  • Position – Full sun/dappled shade/north walls.
  • Soil – Prefers well-drained humus rich soil
  • Flower Colour – Deep Yellow
  • Fragrance – Good
  • Flowers – June – October
  • Repeat Flowering – Yes
  • Hardiness – Fully hardy
  • Eventual size – H 4.4m (15ft) W 4m (13ft)
  • Disease Resistance – Average
  • Pot Size when Purchased – 4ltr

Golden Showers is a very free flowering climber with large golden yellow blooms that fade to light yellow with maturity and a sweet fragrance. It has a short compact growing habit so is easily controlled, glossy green foliage and is nearly thornless. It will grow on a north facing wall

  • Ideal for cottage and informal gardens
  • Ideal for arches and pergolas

  • Ideal for walls in beds and borders and fences
  • Ideal for cut flowers

Roses are easy to look after. They like to grow in a humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil of any type and prefer full sun. Please note roses sent November – March will be sent as recently potted plants that have been pruned hard back (roots and shoots)

Planting

  • Water the rose thoroughly while it’s still in its pot or dunk a bare root one in a bucket of water for 20-30 minutes
  • Pick your spot in the garden and make sure it’s clear of weeds
  • Dig a hole that will take the roses root mass easily
  • Use a fork to loosen the soil at the base of the hole so roots can grow away easily
  • Add manure to the hole if you can get it or Camelot Horse Manure compost
  • Sprinkle Rootgrow in the hole as per the manufacturer’s instructions, this aids root development and leads to a healthier plant
  • Position your rose in the hole so that it’s just slightly lower than the surrounding ground surface
  • Backfill with the soil taken out to dig the hole
  • Firm in by gently standing on the soil to ensure the rose is secure and that there are no air pockets.
  • Water well.

Aftercare

  • Any new rose needs to be watered well until it is established, probably the first two years. Once established you will need to water still to promote a healthy plant that will flower over a long period. The amount depends on rainfall and heat. Once a week should be sufficient but if flowers wilt in extreme heat then they need a good soaking at the roots more frequently.
  • Pay special attention to climbers planted against a wall, roses in pots or in sandy soil with both watering and feeding.
  • Feed your roses twice a year, with After Plant Rose Food once in March/April at the start of the growing season and then again in late July after the first blooms to encourage stronger repeat flowering.
  • Mulch with bark chippings in early spring to suppress weeds and increase water retention
  • Spray to control pests and disease with RoseClear
  • Deadhead throughout the growing season to encourage repeat flowering and keep the rose in good shape.

Today’s Roses are easier to grow than you might expect.

  • The basic needs for Roses include plenty of direct sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
  • Roses tolerate a range of soil types (from sand to clay), as long as a little care is taken to prepare the soil at planting time.

We offer both own-root and grafted Roses.

  • Own-root Roses are plants grown from cuttings. They have their own root systems and remain true to the original varieties.
  • Grafted Roses are plants that have vigorous rootstocks fused to the top parts of other Roses that are valued for their flowers.

Planting Bareroot Roses:

  • Before planting a bareroot Rose, remove and discard the packing material and soak the roots for a few hours.
  • Dig a planting hole that allows sufficient room for the depth and spread of the roots.
  • Add organic matter—such as compost or aged manure—and mix this into the soil dug from the hole.
  • Set the plant in the hole so that the top of the graft, or the crown of own-root Roses (the point where the stems of the plant meet the roots), is 3″ below soil level in the North, and at the same level or 1″ above where winters are mild.

  • Push the mix of soil and organic matter back into the hole, tamping firmly as you go. Water thoroughly.
  • Add a generous layer of organic mulch (compost or aged manure is best) to help keep the soil evenly moist.
  • Water thoroughly once every 2 weeks if rainfall is scarce throughout the growing season and into fall.

Planting Potted Roses:

  • Check the moisture of the potting mix in the container and, if dry, water thoroughly.
  • Dig a hole wide enough and just deep enough for the root ball.
  • Add organic matter—such as compost or aged manure—and mix this into the soil dug from the hole.
  • Remove the plant from the container and gently break up the sides of the root ball with your thumbs and carefully untangle any roots circling at the bottom.
  • Set the root ball in the hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface of the surrounding soil.

  • Push the mix of soil and organic matter back into the hole, tamping firmly as you go. Water thoroughly.
  • Add a generous layer of organic mulch (compost or aged manure is best) to help keep the soil evenly moist.
  • Water thoroughly once a week if rainfall is scarce during the growing season and throughout fall.

Light: Roses grow best where they receive at least 6 hours of direct sun per day.

Watering: We recommend watering in the morning if possible so that the foliage doesn’t remain wet into the evening. If the weather is dry, water thoroughly every 2 weeks.

Fertilizer: Roses grow more vigorously, bloom more prolifically, and show greater resistance to diseases if fertilized during the growing season.

  • For best results, add a layer of compost or aged manure in early spring around the base of the plant. After the first wave of bloom, apply a bloom-boosting fertilizer (15-30-15).
  • For organic gardeners, we recommend adding a layer of compost or aged manure in early spring and applying an organic fertilizer after the first wave of bloom.

Pests & Diseases: The Roses we offer are selected for their vigor and their resistance to pests and diseases.

  • Some Roses are prone to fungus problems (such as black spot) in hot, humid areas. Cleaning up old foliage from the base of the plant is important for disease control.
  • We recommend the use of environmentally-friendly horticultural oil and insect sprays listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI).
  • Japanese beetles may be handpicked or a systemic pesticide may be used. In spring, check for Rose slugs (sawfly larvae that appear as tiny, green caterpillars and skeletonize Rose foliage) and physically destroy them or spray with superfine horticultural oil.

Pruning: Prune Roses to remove deadwood, to control or direct growth, and to promote flowering.

  • Wait until growth breaks from the canes in early to mid-spring before pruning.
  • To train climbers in early spring, trim thinner side shoots from the base of the main branches. Attach new stems to their supports throughout the growing season.
  • If the Rose bush has become too tall, the stems may be cut back by one-third to one-half in early spring or after the first wave of blooms.
  • With the exception of the rugosas, which produce attractive hips (fruits), remove the spent flowers of reblooming Roses to promote more bloom.

Transplanting: Roses may be moved in early spring when dormant.

End-of-Season Care: In our experience, the best way to get Roses through winter is to choose plants adapted to your climate zone.

  • Mound 2 shovelfuls of bark mulch around the base of the plant before the start of winter. This added layer of protection is especially important for grafted Roses.

Create Your Dream Garden Using Basic Design Concepts

Skilled designers combine plants and “hardscape” (stone, fencing, lighting and decorations), to create a beautiful garden.

Experienced gardeners have no problem deciding when to plant their peas, how deep to put their tulip bulbs, or how much to water their geraniums. But when it comes to garden design, even the most seasoned gardeners begin to sweat. We can spend weeks trying to find the perfect spot for a new shrub; spend an entire winter sketching plans for a new perennial garden; and agonize for years about how to reconfigure the front walk. Why do we find these decisions so paralyzing?

One reason may be that garden design is perceived as the work of experts: landscape architects, landscape designers, garden designers, and landscape contractors. Yet some of the most beautiful gardens in the world were not designed by experts. Sissinghurst, the home and gardens of Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson, is a perfect example. So, too, are the gardens of Tasha Tudor and Thomas Jefferson. These gardens are the result of an attentive eye, a sensitive hand, and many years of experimentation—skills that are not the exclusive property of design professionals. Our goal in this article is to help you overcome the garden design jitters, and give you the confidence to finally remove that hedge of overgrown yews, install a flagstone path, or decide where to put a water garden.

Some gardeners wouldn’t dream of planting anything without having a comprehensive design and planting plan for their entire yard. Others don’t think about “designing” their gardens until several years down the road. And still other gardeners never develop a long-range or a short-range plan. They do their planning in the moment, poised with a shovel and a couple of homeless plants.

Which approach is right for you? It depends entirely on who you are and what you are comfortable with. If you have the confidence to forge ahead and follow your intuition, do so! If you feel the need to get some professional advice, then that’s the best alternative for you. Both approaches are equally valid.

It is good to remember that there is no ultimate garden design for your property. There are as many different designs as there are gardeners. And even if you had a detailed plan that you executed perfectly, tomorrow would bring a new interest, a new challenge, and a whole new set of design decisions. The trees will mature and turn your sunny meadow into a shady glade. The weeping cherry that anchored your spring bulb garden will die and need to be replaced. You will tire of the cottage garden and develop a passion for dwarf conifers. In garden design there are no “right” decisions. What you have is a delightful (though sometimes unnerving) opportunity to express yourself. The hardest part may be trusting your own intuition, and allowing yourself to experiment as you evolve your own unique garden design.

The Site Plan

One of the most valuable design tools is a site plan, or bird’s-eye view of your yard. Seeing your garden on paper makes it much easier to identify underlying design elements such as traffic patterns, scale, and symmetry. A professional designer will give you a site plan that is precisely drawn to scale, but your own rough sketch or a survey map will be adequate for all but the most complex landscape designs. Once you have a plan to work from, you can start to indicate the positive and negative features of your yard (trees, shrubs, fences, outbuildings, pathways, views) and natural environmental factors such as light conditions and soil or drainage problems. Pathways and garden areas can be sketched right on the plan. If you enlarge sections of the plan, you can also use it to create your planting map.

Should you hire a professional landscaper or garden designer to help you with your site plan? If you have the means and desire to do so, it will probably be money well spent. Professional advice will always give you a valuable new perspective on your yard and gardens. You may follow their recommendations to the letter, or select only the elements that you find most appealing or most manageable. It is not necessary to contract for a full-scale site plan. Most designers will be very willing to focus their attention on a particular area (like the entryway). One well-conceived and well-executed feature may go a long way toward identifying a design style that you can then carry forward yourself.

Garden Design Basics

What follows is a list of design principles that are common to all the creative arts, whether it be painting, music, literature, or garden design. Don’t let them intimidate you. Just use them as tools to help you see.

Style. Every garden has a style or personality to it. Unless you have a very large yard that is divided into distinct areas or “rooms,” it can be difficult to gracefully accommodate lots of different garden styles in one garden. Begin by thinking about whether you want your garden to have a formal or informal look. Consider your site, the style of your home, and your own personality. Though you don’t have to be too rigorous about striving for a consistent style, you’ll want to avoid a jumble of diverse and unrelated elements.

Flow. A garden is more pleasing if there is a logical progression from one area to the next. Think about how you would like someone to view and move through your garden. Paths are one way to connect some of the various parts to achieve a sense of order and cohesiveness. Focal points, such as a piece of sculpture, a distinctive tree, or a captivating view, can be used to draw the eye and pull us forward into a new space.

Scale. Scale is about proportions – how the sizes and shapes of things relate to each other. A 3 x 6-foot island bed floating in a half-acre sea of lawn will be seriously out of scale. The same will be true of a dwarf apple tree located in front of a two-story colonial house. Most scale problems are due to skimpiness, such as beds and paths that are too narrow, or plantings that are too small and tentative. If in doubt, err on the side of boldness and generosity.

Rhythm. By repeating plants and materials, you can produce a sense of rhythm, order, and predictability. Too much repetition is monotonous, but, as in music, variations on a theme are pleasing. You may want to repeat certain distinctive plant materials, such as the spearlike foliage of an ornamental grass or the velvety gray of lavender or santolina. Repeating splashes of color will also establish a rhythm in the garden and help to guide the eye. But don’t be a slave to repetition. The best gardens always leave room for the unexpected—a giant pot of agapanthus, a whimsical birdhouse in a tangle of morning glories, or a blood-red rose tumbling over a stone wall.

Symmetry and balance. Humans seem to be naturally attracted to symmetry—toward creating perfectly balanced features. Our bodies are symmetrical, as are the cars we drive, the arrangement of windows in our homes, and often the shrubs that flank the front door. Used judiciously, perfect symmetry can be a powerfully appealing design technique. But when overused it can become stiff and boring. The natural landscape, which we also find visually pleasing, is not governed by symmetry. In nature, something more subtle is at work, something artists and designers refer to as balance. Balance is an essential factor in garden design. It refers to visual weight: a birch clump balanced by a large bed of hosta; a brick pathway balanced by a wide swath of lawn; orange Oriental poppies balanced by deep blue lupines. In these examples, the two elements are not identical in size, shape, or color, but there is a response from each side that balances the other. Successful garden design incorporates both symmetry and balance.

Walls, roofs and paths

One thing great gardens share is a sense of place. Entering them is like entering a home—you are wrapped in a particular environment that is very different from the world outside. As in a home, the walls, roof, and floor help give a garden its unique character. When designing your own garden, you can use these aspects to create “rooms” in which plants are arranged in a context rather than floating in space.

Walls. English flower borders almost always have a background behind them. In England, this is usually a tall stone or brick wall or an evergreen hedge. The backdrop serves to stop your eye from roving and allows you to focus on the intended view. Most American gardeners don’t make use of this very effective technique, and our gardens often get lost in the larger scene. Whenever possible, anchor your garden by placing something behind it: a structure, a fence, or a planting of shrubs. Remember to keep it simple. The objective is to direct the eye to the foreground, not create a competing element.

Roofs. Though there are plenty of very successful gardens that are totally exposed to the sky, most of us are naturally attracted to more sheltered, intimate spaces: a garden that’s been carved out of a woodland or is nestled beneath an ancient apple tree. We are, for the same reason, drawn to arbors, bowers, allees, and pergolas. The roof need not cover your entire garden. Including the experience of enclosure somewhere in your garden—it can be as simple as an arbor at the entrance—will help to create that sense of being in a special environment set apart from the rest of the world.

Paths. Paths lead us through a garden and link one area to another. Paths in themselves are an age-old comfort, showing us the way we are to travel, assuring us of a progression that is safe and intentional. The paving material and the way the paths are laid out can help define the style of the garden. A meandering pathway made of flat stones spaced several inches apart will have an intimate, informal feel; a wide brick path suggests neatness and order; a broad path of closely mown lawn conveys grandeur and expansiveness. Paths also create edges that suggest where new plants or even entire gardens could be located.

Plants as Design Elements

Plants themselves can be important design elements, though few gardeners actually use them this way. The arching branches of a well-pruned cherry tree can frame an entire garden. The repetition of the spiky foliage of Japanese iris can be used to unify a long border. If you take the time to notice and experiment with the form, texture, and color of plants, you will discover a whole new palette of design elements with which to work. form. This is a three-dimensional consideration that takes into account the shapes and volumes of the plants in your garden.

A variety of different forms makes a garden interesting, but too much diversity can create visual confusion. Trees and shrubs often have characteristic forms that should be carefully combined to avoid clashing. Flowers, too, have characteristic shapes: the rounded heads of alliums, verbena, and globe thistle; the vertical spikes of delphinium, snapdragons, and veronica; the diaphanous look of baby’s-breath and Queen Anne’s lace; the strong architectural lines of a 5-foot martagon lily. You can experiment by grouping plants with the same form into a drift, or by repeating a pleasing composition of different forms several times.

Texture. Plants have a tactile quality that can be used as a valuable design tool. Think about how the glossy leaves of holly, magnolia, and roses contrast with the suede-like foliage of lamb’s ears, heliotrope, and coleus. Or how the fat and fleshy leaves of a sedum differ from the needle-like foliage of rosemary or the quilted leaves of a blue-green hosta. Flowers also provide textural interest. They can be rich and velvety like a rose, or as thin and translucent as a poppy. Even tree bark contributes textural interest – especially during the winter months.

Color. Entire books have been written about using color as a design tool. You can approach color as a technician, using the color wheel to create harmonious combinations, or you can use your own eyes and emotions to guide you in creating the look and feel you want. Combining colors in new and interesting ways offers a lifetime of exciting possibilities.

As a general rule, red, orange and yellow are colors that jump out at you. They are lively and stimulating, and give the impression that they are closer to the eye than they actually are. If you plant too many hot-colored flowers, and don’t balance them with cool-colored, less assertive plants, your garden will be a jumble of blaring trumpets. Green, blue, and violet are cool colors. In the garden these flowers create a more soothing, restful feeling, and tend to recede into the distance.

Getting Inspired

Visiting other people’s gardens may be the best source of design inspiration. Take along a camera or sketch pad to capture features that you find particularly successful or appealing. Notice when some of the design techniques described above are being used. Don’t be afraid to ask questions about what the gardener was trying to achieve.

Glossy picture books of gardens run a close second for design inspiration. They have the distinct advantage of being available for perusal year-round. Use sticky notes to mark images that capture your attention, then go back and review your choices to see where the similarities lie. Comparing and contrasting different types of gardens can be very useful in helping you decide what sort of look attracts you. If you are gravitating toward a theme garden (colonial, Japanese, Southwestern, English cottage), you’ll find dozens of books that illustrate the design features and techniques that distinguish these styles.

Some garden design books include complete planting plans that are theme-oriented, or are specific to a certain type of site. They usually provide a site plan, a planting list, and an elevation drawing that shows what the garden will look like at eye level. You can follow the plan, or pick and choose the elements that appeal to you.

Creative gardeners read garden design books the way creative cooks read recipe books. Don’t feel compelled to follow the garden design verbatim. You can lift ideas here and there, and combine them into your own unique expression.

Decorating Your Garden

Some purists believe that ornamentation—trellises, furniture, sculpture, and decorative planters—has no place in the garden. Others fill their gardens with so many decorative elements that it can be difficult to find the plants. Used judiciously, the furnishings and decorative features that you incorporate in your garden help give it style and character.

Decorative elements can be characterized as formal, informal, or somewhere in between. This has something to do with what the piece is (a whirligig versus a Japanese lantern), but also what the piece is made of. Fanciful wooden birdhouses and split-rail fencing have a casual, country feeling; whereas a bronze nude or a Grecian urn are more elegant and formal. When choosing decorative elements for your garden, the challenge is to select items that appeal to you, and that will also fit harmoniously with the style you are trying to achieve and any other decorative objects that you already own.

Know your expense from a golden shower plant

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Have we ever asked the question as why plants produce so many numbers of flowers? The plant Cassia fistula popularly called as ‘golden shower tree’ can tell how prodigal they are during late spring. The cassia fistula plant flower during late spring and in most instances, the tree is filled only with golden yellow coloured flowers and nothing else. Even the leaves are hard to see in those plants during flowering season.

Are the plants prodigal? Do they need to be so aggressive in their reproduction and procreation? Is nature so rude and cruel to them and hence they have to ‘use the chance to their favour’, hence large number of flowers and seeds are produced.

Look at the specialties of golden shower plant. It can easily live in arid and hot zones. Requires less water, can withstand hot and cold. Can live and grow in plains and on slopes of a mountain. Even it can resist salinity of the soil and survive in saline environment. The story of its adaptation will tell us that the nature is indeed kind and supportive to the plant to live in wherever it has to or it wish to.

Despite having all the advantages why the plant still incur such a huge expense in producing so innumerable flowers. The plant even shed its leaves to prevent transpiration led water loss in order to support the abundant flowers it has produced, until pollination is complete.

Is the approach of golden shower plant wise or unwise?

A great resource management insight every corporate must learn from the plant Cassia fistula. Perhaps, the plant may be of the philosophy that producing more flowers means more seeds and more seeds mean more new plants. For the above cause, it is worth being ‘prodigal’.

But do they get any reward proportional to their expenditure. The simple answer would be no. The cassia plants are seen only in the places where most other plants generally fail to grow. It means, cassia could grow easily in the places that are not so favourable to many plants in general.

The irony is that the cassia plant despite having produced so much of flowers and seeds, still it could not exploit the best ‘soil’.

Many corporate do follow the same management principle unknowingly. By way of competing with MNC’s, they incur huge investment for giving advertisement to their ‘primitive/ordinary’ or ‘mass market’ products. Their belief is that giving advertisement means they can carve a premium image to the products and can enhance sales. But, in all probability, they fail to reap any profit out of their expense.

The reason being, they are expert only in meeting the needs of ‘mass market’ and are unfit and irrelevant to ‘posh and premium customers’.

Look at the cassia plant. It is expert in growing in places where many other plants may not able to grow. To facilitate seed dispersal and seed germination in such places, the plant has to produce more seeds, hence it does. The expense it incurs towards it, it wisely justifies.

The management lesson of Cassia fistula or golden shower plant is more appropriate for the marketing function of any corporate. Before they invest, they need to know what they propose to see as result. Unless this arithmetic is done correctly in the beginning, all the resources the corporate may siphon out on advertisement to reap net loss, debt and insolvency.

Ref: Management book – Jungle wisdom for corporate management – lessons from university of nature by Swami Sukhabodhananda and Dr S Ranganathan

S. Ranganathan, Dr., © 2012

Dr.S Ranganathan Column Page: SRanganathan

Disclaimer: “The views/contents expressed in this article are the sole responsibility of the author(s) and do not neccessarily reflect those of Modern Ghana. Modern Ghana will not be responsible or liable for any inaccurate or incorrect statements contained in this article.”

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