- Information forStreptocarpus grandis
- Pests and disease
- TOP 3 Streptocarpus
- Growing Streptocarpus (Cape Primrose)
- Streptocarpus: Propagation by Leaf
Information forStreptocarpus grandis
Some knowledge about growing from seed is necessary to germinate even the easiest seeds. Most seeds require humidity to germinate, even desert plants like Welwitschia mirabilis require that their growing medium remains moist until germination.
Most seeds require oxygen to germinate, if buried too deep in their growing medium, or if the medium is too wet, the seeds may not get the oxygen they require.
Some seeds need to be in the light (surface sown) or in the dark (sown deep enough to receive little or no light) to germinate. A rule of thumb is to cover the seeds their own width deep in the growing medium, but some seeds prefer to be sown much deeper, and some fairly large seeds like to be surface sown (or higher).
Many seeds germinate best at certain temperatures, some will germinate at a comparatively wide range of temperatures, yet others need fluctuating temperatures.
Almost all seeds are waiting in a dormant state for some outside stimulus to break their dormancy, some just need sufficiently high ambiant humidity, others need scarification, vernalization or to be passed through the intestines of an animal.
Streptocarpus grandis seeds will usually germinate in 15-30 days.
Normally will only germinate with light so surface sow. Sow Streptocarpus grandis seeds on the surface of a Peaty seed sowing mix at about 15°C.
Sow Streptocarpus grandis seeds on the surface of moist compost, use a translucent cover to allow light in and to keep the compost humid and warm (do not place in direct sunlight)
Very small seeds. See No. 5
Growing and Flowering Cape Primroses (Streptocarpus)
By Laurelynn Martin and Byron Martin
‘Yellow with Pink Cap’
Cape Primroses, also known as Streptocarpus or Streps, have filled a niche as flowering houseplants for the home for many decades. Their velvety, long green leaves and floral sprays that rise above the foliage create a stunning plant for a windowsill garden.
Streps are known for their ability to bloom in low light. They actually thrive under those conditions. Originally from South Africa, they are found in their native habitat growing on the forest floor; that’s why they have a tolerance to lower light and periods of dryness.
Grown In a Home Environment
Grow in bright shade to partial sun near a window but not in direct southern sunlight (an east or north window is fine). Cape Primroses are also good candidates for a light garden where they will bloom for many months at a time. The leaves, when grown under low light, are deep green whereas when the light is too high, they will develop a yellowish-green coloration.
Streps tolerate drier soil conditions and as a rule it’s best to bring the potting mix to slight dryness and then thoroughly saturate the soil. A slight wilt does the plant no harm. Also, remember to water directly into the soil and do not get the leaves wet, especially with cold water. Cold water on the leaves will stain the leaves and make them unsightly.
Temperature requirements are varied, but generally growing Streps from 60˙F to the high 70’s is hot enough. They will not tolerate high temperatures. This is one of the greatest challenges in their culture. The summer heat, in many areas of the country, distresses the plants and can sometimes cause their collapse. Any type of heat wave, even those that we get in Connecticut, can wreak havoc with Cape Primrose plants. When temperatures rise into the 90’s, the plants will go into a wilt and the leaves get damaged or the plants collapse, as the transpiration of the leaves is far greater than what the root system can uptake.
Flowering is initiated by the intensity of light and Cape Primroses can flower 10 months out of the year in natural light on a north or east-facing window. They also make great plants for light gardens and tend to bloom well under those conditions.
Fertilizing Your Plants
Fertilize with caution since Streps are lower light loving plants. Damage can occur when you use large or frequent doses of high salt fertilizers. When you feed your plant, we recommend intermittent feeding with any liquid, balanced, houseplant fertilizer (where the three numbers are close together or the same). It’s best to reduce the recommended fertilizer dosage by half (so if it calls for one teaspoon per quart of water, add only half a teaspoon per quart). Periodically, you should leach, or let water run out of the bottom of the pot, so you don’t get an accumulation or build up of salt levels from the fertilizer. One of the symptoms of excess fertilization is a browning or burning of the leaf edge as the young leaves emerge and start to grow. As this damaged leaf matures, there will be a burned edge and a constricted area in the leaf. Remember that high temperatures along with greater leaf transpiration can aggravate this problem.
Cyclamen mites and aphids can be a problem when you’re growing Cape Primroses. Cyclamen mites affect the youngest leaves causing a browning or distortion of the growth. Aphids will get on the flowers but only if another infected plant is nearby. We recommend spraying the plants with neem oil, 2 TB per gal with 4 tsp of dishwashing detergent. You’ll need to apply several applications usually a week apart. It’s also best to isolate any infected plants during treatment so the pests don’t spread to other plants.
Root disease can be an issue for Cape Primroses during high temperatures. Since the roots cannot take up enough water during high periods of heat, the stressed root system is the perfect place for disease to set in. If you notice that the plants don’t recover from the wilt they experience on hot days, then tap the plants out of their pots. Diseased roots will be dead and break apart when touched. Rots can also affect the crown at the soil surface cutting off the flow of water. If your home is air-conditioned during the summer heat, then the plants are better able to sustain high temperatures.
Cape Primroses grow in a rosette and periodically the older leaves need to be pinched off if they are yellowing or looking shabby. The old flower stems should also be removed once the flowers have past to keep your plant looking healthy and vibrant.
Cape Primrose, or Streptocarpus, is a genus of beautiful flowering plants that contains numerous species, most of which are easily grown in a heated greenhouse. These plants superficially resemble those of the genus Primula but are not related to them. In many ways, the five-petalled Cape Primrose flowers remind me of orchids. Each has somewhat of a lip, not as pronounced as an orchid’s, but distinctive just the same. When in full bloom, which can be year-round, Cape Primroses are often quite spectacular, and they come in a great many eye-catching colours, too.
The Afrotropical habitat of Streptocarpus plants gives clues to their care. Many originate from South Africa (hence the name “Cape” Primrose) where they inhabit wooded areas with relatively moist soil and some shade. Accordingly, my plants do well under a bench on the northwest side of my greenhouse. Here they get an hour or two of morning sun and then shade during the hottest part of the day. If I sometimes forget to water them in this out-of-the-way location, a good soaking will revive the wilted leaves, and the plants seem none the worse for wear. Under watering them is far better than overwatering, which will rot the roots and kill the plant.
Streptocarpus plants are not too fussy regarding temperature. They survive quite nicely in my heated greenhouse even though it sometimes gets as low as 45˚F there in the depths of winter. If winter temperatures are going to plunge, I bring my oldest Cape Primroses into my basement and set them under fluorescent lights. One warm-white bulb and one cool-white bulb give them a fairly broad light spectrum, which keeps them quite happy, as does the basement temperature, which never drops below 50˚F in winter.
Selecting and cultivating a Streptocarpus plant is not difficult. First, look for healthy light green leaves and enough flowers to determine colour. You don’t need a plant with a profusion of blooms because flower production will increase as the plant grows. When you arrive home, repot the plant into a four- or six -inch pot using a good quality peat-based potting soil with perlite to lighten it. The soil should be slightly acidic and just moist after repotting and kept that way as you’re waiting for blooms. As soon as buds appear, add a little high-potash fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro “Bloom,” to help promote flowering. When the plant is in full bloom, it may stay in flower for months, giving you maximum enjoyment.
The Streptocarpus, also known as the Cape Primrose plant, is a delicate evergreen hybrid featuring velvet flowers and striking, deep-veined leaves. As a relative of the African violet, the Cape Primrose keeps in bloom for several months of the year when treated properly and exposed to ample indirect lighting.
A Cape Primrose plant reaches a height of 12 inches and spreads up to 18 inches. Best grown in USA plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, the Cape Primrose is a lively, beautiful plant with robust flower stems supporting vibrant, colorful blooms in several shades of violet and complementary colors like lavender.
Water and Soil Requirements
As a delicate perennial, the Cape Primrose should be watered enough to carefully wet its roots, but not enough to produce soggy soil. The roots are quite sensitive to moisture overages, and too much water will likely cause root rot and damage the plant. If the leaves wilt and become discolored, you’ll know that you’ve used too much water.
Reduce watering frequency in the colder months of the year, but maintain at least slight a bit of moisture in the soil.
The Cape Primrose is best kept in the same potting mix as the African violet, and soil should never become completely dry during any point of the year.
|Light:||Indirect light. East-or west-facing window is ideal.|
|Watering:||water whenever the top 2 inches of potting mix feels dry. Reduce watering in winter.|
|Soil:||African Violet Potting Mix|
|Temperature:||Moderate temperature of 55- 70° F | 13-21° C|
|Height:||up to 12 inches|
|Spread:||up to 18 inches|
Light and Temperature Requirements
The Cape Primrose loves bright light, but exposure to direct sunlight can damage the delicate leaves, so indirect and sunlight filtered through curtains works best.
Fluorescent lights are another viable option, but always use natural sunlight when possible.
The Cape Primrose is best kept in moderate-humidity environments throughout the year.
Foliage should be gently sprayed with a water mister to supply a constant source of moisture for the leaves.
To further maintain moisture, keep the Cape Primrose away from sharp forms of draft or other desiccants.
Supply the Cape Primrose with high-quality phosphorous-heavy fertilizer twice per month in Spring and Summer. Though you have many choices of fertilizer, African violet fertilizer will work perfectly.
Make sure to moisten the soil before applying fertilizer, as the Cape Primrose may suffer fertilizer burns if the soil is not properly wet beforehand.
Propagating The Cape Primrose
Fortunately, when it comes to flowering plants, Cape Primrose is incredibly easy to propagate.
During Spring season, simply select a batch of healthy-looking leaves and delicately cut from as close to the base of the plant as possible. The best leaves for cutting are those which display a deep green color and appear to be vibrant and well-nourished.
Although it’s possible to propagate the Cape Primrose with leave cuttings taken during the late Spring to early Summer, early-to-mid Spring is best.
Instructions To Repot
Repotting the Cape Primrose works best by transferring as much of the previous potting mix as possible. The plant is quite resilient, so even if a few of it’s roots are detached, owners will find the new pots filled with replacement roots.
Streptocarpus: Lots of blooms, ease of care
Sometimes commonly known as ‘cape primrose’, Streptocarpus aren’t primrose at all, but gesneriads (African violet cousins). They will bloom heavily year-round and can be quite spectacular. Very easy to grow and bloom, they are great for windows, or in artificial light. Many visitors to our shop will mistake them for orchids, they are so pretty!
Unlike violets, each leaf of a streptocarpus will produce 8-10 or more bloom stalks, sequentially, so that plants tend to stay in heavy bloom for long periods of time. Culture and care of streptocarpus is the same as for African violets. If you are going to grow just one other blooming houseplant besides violets, we would highly recommend trying steps. They are very easy to grow and almost constantly rewarding.
Who we are
We’ve been growing and exhibiting since 1975, and have been in business shipping to satisfied customers world-wide since 1985. We hybridize many of our own plants–are famous for our ‘Rob’s’ and ‘Ma’s’ series of African violets, and our ‘Bristol’s’ series of gesneriads (African violet relatives).
We grow our plants in a renovated barn, circa 1900, with an attached glasshouse and other buildings. At any given time, we have 30,000+ plants being grown. We grow plants because this is what we love to do. View the “about” page to learn more about us.
What we do
We hybridize and grow all the plants we sell–we don’t buy from other growers and resell. This means we know what each plant likes to grow best from personal experience. We also collect the best and most unusual hybrids from other growers, then propagate them for sale, as well as collect and grow many rare species not previously grown in cultivation. We rarely travel or attend a show and come home empty handed!
We also try to share our passion for growing plants with others, and to educate those new to our hobby. We encourage everyone to share their experience with others–the spread the “cheer” and their knowledge. View our “blog” pages or subscribe to our monthly newsletter to read more.
What we grow
We specialize in African violets and their relatives (gesneriads), and other plants suitable for the indoor home environment. Most are of a manageable size (can be grown on a windowsill or light stand), and many will bloom readily in the home.
We also grow a huge, and diverse, collection of miniature and terrarium plants–every plant you need for a terrarium, miniature landscape, or fairy garden. Our plants are true miniatures, not just cuttings of a large plant that will quickly outgrow your container. Safe for use in vivariums. Not harmful to frogs and reptiles. We only use organic, nontoxic, products when growing these plants. For an overview of what we grow, view the “what we grow pages”, or better, our online catalog!
How to grow
Though we’d like to sell you plants (or perhaps we have) use this site as a reference–to learn about the plants you grow (or want to), or to learn how to grow them better. Use our “search function” to answer your question–for example, type “repot African violet”, if this is what you need to know. You’ll be directed to relevant information on this topic, or any other. Our “plant care” pages contain much useful information, including “how to” lessons, and a FAQ (frequently asked questions) library.
If you’ve purchased a plant from us, and are having difficulties growing it, or simply need more information on its care, we can always be reached by email or phone during business hours.
Where to find us
Visit us–our shop and glasshouse are open to the public year-round. Hours and directions can be found in the “about” pages. We also attend (and sell at) a number of shows during the year, throughout the United States. Dates of these upcoming events will be listed in the sidebar at right.
Visit our “facebook” and “pinterest” pages (links found at page top). Subscribe to our monthly newsletter, “VioletsFun”. Join a society–we are longtime members for many plant societies and interest groups. There is no better way to learn than to share your experiences with a fellow grower. We offer incentives to join (a free plant with an AVSA membership) and encourage members to participate and exhibit (coupons for show winners).
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Once you’ve grown one Cape primrose successfully you’ll be hooked forever, says Anne Swithinbank.
There are literally hundreds of varieties of streptocarpus and they are very collectable. As the common name Cape primrose suggests, streptocarpus originate mainly from South Africa, where they grow in wooded areas, enjoying moist soil and light shade.
This is an easy environment to replicate indoors. Normal room temperatures are tolerated well, though plants might suffer in hot, dry rooms during winter. Plants can survive cold, down almost to freezing, as long as they are kept on the dry side, however a winter minimum of 7-10˚C/45-50˚F is ideal. I often display my collection in our north-facing porch, alongside potted lilies and ferns.
The biggest danger is overwatering because this kills the roots and causes the plant to wilt badly. Sometimes over-potting adds to the problem and it is wise to leave a plant well alone until it is growing strongly and only then think about giving it a slightly larger pot. Use either a soilless potting compost, or mix in some perlite for a more open texture. Most of us tend to do this by eye, but I reckon three or four parts compost to one of perlite is right.
These are not sun-lovers and too much direct light will scorch the leaves, as will splashes of water. Older leaves naturally turn brown at the tips and most growers either cut them away completely, or trim them back to green healthy tissue using a pair of scissors.
Healthy plants making active growth should be given a balanced or (when flowering) a high potash liquid feed at a quarter the usual strength at every other watering. Pick off individual dead flowers, and cut out stems when they have finished to encourage the plants to produce more.
Pests and disease
Keep a watchful eye out for greenfly, which sometimes congregate on the flower stems early in the year. Plants may also have problems with mealy bug and root mealy bug.
TOP 3 Streptocarpus
- ‘Harlequin Blue’ is a new introduction from Dibley’s and has two-tone blue and primrose yellow flowers. It was voted Plant of the Year at Chelsea Flower Show – quite an accolade for a house plant.
- ‘Black panther’: Rich, velvety flowers of the deepest purple are hallmarks of this American-bred variety
- ‘Snow White’: This pretty white variety is compact – ideal if you’re short on space
Dibleys Nurseries, Llanelidan, Ruthin, Denbighshire LL15 2LG: 01978 790677 www.dibleys.com
Special Plants: Hill Farm Barn, Greenways Lane, Cold Ashton, Chippenham, Wilts SN14 8LA: 01225 891686 www.specialplants.net
Leaf cuttings in summer at a temperature of 69,8 ° F. It is possible to germinate a fragment of a leaf in water, having powdered a cut of a sheet with coal and having placed a cut on 0,5-1 sm in water. On the whole sheet, it is possible to make incisions with a knife along the central vein and place the sheet “face” down on the surface of the ground, pinning with wire. Cover with a glass or a film and wait until new plants appear, regularly watering. You can pre-treat the sections with hormonal powder. The sheet can not be cut, but it is traditionally placed in the substratum. Germs will appear about a month later. Streptocarpus can be propagated in spring by dividing the bush during transplantation. It also reproduces seeds that are planted in January-February (for summer flowering of the plant, for the streptocarpus to bloom the next year, the seeds can be sown in June-July) and do not sprinkle with earth. Cover the container with glass and germinate the seeds at a temperature above 68 ° F. Shoots usually appear on the 10th-12th day. After about 2-3 weeks they are dived. Plants bloom after about 7 months at spring sowing and after 9 in summer.
Growing Streptocarpus (Cape Primrose)
Latin Name Pronunciation: strep-toe-kar’puss
LIGHT: The Cape Primrose is a relative of African Violets and prefers the same growing conditions of bright but indirect light. Avoid hot sun, which can burn the leaves and fade the flowers.
TEMPERATURE: Day and night temperatures of 60-75 degrees F are fine year round.
WATERING: Water only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch. Providing water too frequently will cause the roots, leaves, and base of the plant to rot. If the leaves look wilted even when the soil is moist, you may be overwatering. Let the top inch of the potting mix dry out before watering again. Plants require less water during the winter months (November through February).
FERTILIZER: From spring through fall, apply a water-soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (such as 15-30-15) every 3 weeks. Withhold fertilizer during the winter months, when your plant will stop growing actively and rest.
CONTINUING CARE: Use scissors to cut off the stalks of faded flowers. The tips of older leaves become dry as they age, and these too may be trimmed off. Repot your plant into a slightly larger pot in spring.
Streptocarpus: Propagation by Leaf
Propagation of streptocarpus is actually very easy, in fact, in many ways easier than African violets and many other houseplants. They propagate fairly quickly and prolifically. Though they can be propagated from cuttings in a number of ways, this is how we do it. Follow these simple, step by step instructions, and you should have no problems getting more plants of your favorite varieties
Step 1: Cut off a section of a leaf. Using scissors, cut off a section of a healthy leaf. It’s best to use a leaf that’s mature, but not too old. Leaves that show a lot of veining are best (you’ll see why later). We cut about a 2″ section, since this size will fit nicely into the 2 1/4″ square pots we use (but any length will do). By the way, streptocarpus don’t mind having their leaves trimmed! If one is too long or is damaged, simply trim it to the desired shape and size!
Step 2: Remove the midrib from the leaf. Using a sharp knife or razor, remove and discard the center vein, or midrib, from the leaf section. If the leaf is very large, you may even trim-away some of the outer edges to make it smaller (we didn’t do this here).
Step 3: Make a “slot” in the rooting medium. Make a slot or “furrow” in the rooting medium, into which the leaf section can be placed. We like to use an old ruler to do this. Be sure that your rooting mix is very light and porous. Ours is 1 part Pro-mix BX (a peat and perlite mix), and 3 parts coarse vermiculite. Use a rooting mix at least as light as this. The mix should be moist, but not soggy.
Step 4: Firmly place leaf section into rooting mix. Place leaf section, “like a slice of bread into a toaster” into rooting mix. Place about 1/4″ deep, and firm-in the soil around the leaf edge. We’ll put another leaf section into this pot, as can be seen in the next photo. Be sure to label the pot with the name of variety being propagated.
Step 5: Development of plantlets from leaf cutting. This photo shows plantlet development at 10 weeks after rooting. Note that numerous plantlets develop along the bottom edge of the leaf section. More densely veined leaves usually will produce more plantlets along the edge. Not that each single leaf is actually a separate plant (don’t look for “pairs” of leaves). These leaves could actually be separated and planted now in individual pots, but we like to wait until the leaf produces the maximum number of plantlets possible, usually after about 4 months.
Step 6: Separate plantlet from “mother” leaf. When plantlets are large enough that you’re comfortable handling them, they can be removed from the original leaf section. Gently pull on each individual leaf appearing from the base of rooted leaf section. In a light rooting mix, they should easily separated. Don’t worry if the plantlet has only a few, thin roots–it’ll soon produce more. Remember, that individual leaf shown is really an individual plant (or will develop into one). You needn’t have multiple leaves at this point.
Step 7: Potting individual plantlets. Make a small hole in your regular soil mix (again, a light, soilless mix is recommended). We like to use an old pencil to do this. Push the plantlet down into this hole, so that about 1/3 of the plantlet is beneath the soil surface. Firm the soil around the plantlet. Lightly water the soil (again, moist but not soggy). If the plantlet has few roots or otherwise seems quite fragile, you might want to put it into a clear, covered container or plastic baggie for the first few weeks. it should be well-established within a month, at which point growth will become quite rapid.
Step 8: The finished product! You’ve not got more of your favorite streps…if only you had the room to grow them all!
This page covers how to grow and propagate Streptocarpus. These are the methods I’ve had success with here in New Zealand (NZ).
- General growing
- Leaf propagation
- Growing from seed
1. General growing information The details given below are probably the ideal conditions, but I have found that Streptocarpus do quite well on either side of these optimums.
- Soil = I use an ordinary commercial potting mix with a bit of perlite mixed in. This makes sure the soil will retain some moisture but not get boggy.
- Temperature = 15ºC-25ºC. I have found that Streptocarpus do not generally do well in much warmer temperatures. In summer in Auckland, you need to find them a cool spot. Summer in Wellington, NZ, is fine. They can be taken down to 10ºC or less in winter for a rest.
- Light = Medium to bright indirect light is best. However, a bit of morning or late afternoon sun is more than OK. Even in dimmer light, they will flower – just a bit less.
- Water = I prefer to water only when the leaves have just started to wilt (or just before). They easily recover from dehydration. Make sure the pot has holes in the bottom to drain water, and never leave the pots sitting in a saucer of water.
- Feeding = I use a “fruit and flower” or general fertiliser.
- Seasons? Streps require much less water in winter, so keep them quite dry. Generally, Streptocarpus will flower from spring to autumn. In winter, they will stop flowering and may lose some leaves, which is normal. However some varieties flower in winter too!
- Pruning = If you like, slice off yellowing or browned leaves at the base – these will be the older leaves naturally dying off. If there is a healthy leaf with some blemishing, you can successfully cut off only the blemished parts and trim the leaf to a normal shape. With regards to flowers, snip off individuals as they finish, then snip the whole stem off at the base once the last flower on that stem is spent.
- Pests and diseases = I find Streptocarpus to be generally pest and disease -free. In NZ, I have occasionally seen them with aphids or mealy bug. For aphids, I put the affected plant in a small enclosed space (like a cupboard), spray the air with fly spray, close the cupboard, then leave for 30 minutes or so (or just squash them). For mealy bug, clean/kill them off with a bit of methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) on a cotton bud.
2. Propagating from leaf cuttings Streptocarpus grow easily from leaf cuttings, and there are a few methods to choose from. Vertical leaf in soil:
- Slice a strong, healthy leaf near the base of its stem with a sharp knife or scalpel, just above where the flowers arise.
- Dip the base in rooting hormone (not completely necessary, as the leaves have built-in rooting hormones)
- Place leaf upright in potted soil, a few centimetres down, gently firm soil around leaf.
- Water lightly.
- Cover in a plastic bag to retain moisture, poke a few holes in the bag
- Place in temperature and light conditions mentioned above.
- After a few weeks to a couple of months, one or more shoots will emerge from the soil. You can either let the plant continue to grow like this, or you can separate off the plantlets and pot up separately for ongrowing.
Horizontal leaf in soil:
- Take a leaf cutting as above
- Cut the leaf lengthwise to remove the central midrib
- Place leaf cut-side down in soil (either as a whole length or cut into smaller lengths)
- Follow directions above
Leaf in water:
- Take a leaf cutting as above
- Sit the cut end in water
- Change water weekly
- Over a few weeks to months, a mass of roots will form
- Pot up the cutting.
You can also propagate Streptocarpus by dividing mature clumps. And some varieties of Streptocarpus will produce plantlets below-ground from the root system. You would see these when repotting, or sometimes they can grow out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. 3. Growing from seed Streptocarpus hybrids do not grow true to type from seeds, but species Streptocarpus do. This is the method I’ve had most success with.
- Use ordinary commercial potting mix with a bit of perlite mixed in. I have had considerably less success using ‘seed mix’ -type soil.
- Spray the soil with water.
- Scatter seed finely over soil. Streptocarpus seed is very, very small, so you might want to mix it with a small amount of fine, dry sand to help scattering.
- Do not cover the seed with any soil because it needs exposure to light to germinate.
- Cover the pot with plastic kitchen wrap; poke some small holes into it.
- Keep under continuous light (optional), or in a position with bright, indirect light.
- Keep at about 20ºC (make sure the light/sun doesn’t bake them).
- Keep soil moist by gently spraying if necessary.
- Germination times can vary, but expect it to take at least 1-3 weeks.
- As the seedlings grow, enlarge the holes in the plastic wrap.
- When seedlings are large enough to handle (say, leaves a 1-3 centimetres long), gently pot into larger pots. Do this by gently digging them up and teasing out each seedling.
- Given the right conditions, seedlings can bear their first flowers in about 6 months.