Cherry Tomato ‘Sakura’ (Lycopersicon esculentum)

Planting Instructions

Select a sunny site, away from trees and close to a water source if possible.
Prepare the garden by breaking up the existing soil (use a hoe, spade, or power tiller) to a depth of 12-16” (30-40cm). Add organic matter such as manure, peat moss or garden compost until the soil is loose and easy to work. Organic ingredients improve drainage, add nutrients, and encourage earthworms and other organisms that help keep soil healthy. Give plants an extra boost by adding a granulated fertilizer formulated for vegetables or and all-purpose feed (such as a fertilizer labeled 5-10-5).
Remove the plant from the container. If plants are in a pack, gently squeeze the outside of the individual plant cell while tipping container to the side. If plant doesn’t loosen, continue pressing on the outside of the container while gently grasping the base of the plant and tugging carefully so as not to crush or break the stem until the plant is released. If the plant is in a pot, brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot.
Dig the hole up to two times larger than the root ball and deep enough that the plant will be at the same level in the ground as the soil level in the container. Grasping the plant at the top of the root ball, use your finger to lightly rake apart the lower roots apart. This is especially important if the roots are dense and have filled up the container. Set the plant in the hole.
Check the plant label for suggested spacing and the mature height of the plant. Position plants so that taller plants are in the center or background of the garden and shorter plants in the foreground.
Plan ahead for plants that get tall and require staking or support cages. It’s best to install cages early in the spring, at planting time, before the foliage gets bushy. Vining vegetables can occupy a lot of space, so provide a trellis, fence, or other structure that allows the plant to grow vertically to maximize garden space.

Watering Instructions

Ideally water should only be applied to the root zone – an area roughly 6-12” (15-30cm) from the base of the plant, not the entire plant. A soaker hose is a great investment for keeping plants healthy and reducing water lost through evaporation. Hand watering using a watering wand with a sprinkler head attached is also a good way to control watering. If the garden area is large, and a sprinkler is necessary, try to water in the morning so that plant foliage has time to dry through the day. Moist foliage encourages disease and mold that can weaken or damage plants.
Thoroughly soaking the ground every 2-3 days is better than watering a little bit daily. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance. How often to water will depend on rainfall, temperature and how quickly the soil drains.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a small trowel to dig in and examine the soil. If the first 2-4” (5-10cm) of soil is dry, it is time to water.

Fertilizing Instructions

A well prepared planting bed enriched with organic matter such as compost or manure and a mild general-purpose, granulated fertilizer gets plants off to a good start. Give plants a boost later in the season with a fertilizer formulated for vegetables.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. Follow the package directions to determine how much, and how often, to feed.
Be sure to keep the garden well-weeded. Weeds take vital moisture and nutrients away from the vegetable plants.

Pruning Instructions

There are several reasons to prune vegetable plants: to help contain a plant’s size, to promote bushy compact growth, to remove dead or diseased stems, and to promote larger, healthier fruit yields.
Flower buds can be pinched off to force the plant energy into fewer fruits that develop faster.
Vining plants can become invasive in a confined garden space. If necessary, entire vines can be removed down to the main stem to keep plants under control.
Never prune away more than 1/3 of the plant or it may become weak and unproductive.
Remove vegetables as soon as they mature. Leaving them on the plant any longer than necessary can affect flavor and texture, and mature fruit steals energy from younger developing fruits.

Sweetest tomatoes to grow


Every tomato variety has its strengths, but if it’s sweetness that you enjoy then look no further than our tried and tested pick of the sweetest varieties.


The sweetness of a tomato can be measured by the Brix rating, which is a measure of the sugar content of products like wine, honey and juice – and in this case, tomatoes.

Unlike larger, beefsteak tomatoes, it’s the smaller cherry and plum varieties which are usually the sweetest. Grown in full sun in pots, greenhouses or growing bags, they can be enjoyed straight from the vine, or added to summer salads.

For more tips on growing the most flavoursome tomatoes, take a look at our five top tips for improving tomato flavour.

Discover the sweetest tomatoes to grow and taste yourself, below.

Unlike larger, beefsteak tomatoes, it’s the smaller cherry and plum varieties which are usually the sweetest.

Tomato ‘Rosada’

The sweetest variety we tested, ‘Rosada’ is a baby plum variety with a Brix rating of 10.5.

Update February 2017:

This popular cherry plum tomato is now hard to find in the UK, but some suppliers may still be stocking it. If you can’t find it, try ‘Santonio’, a new F1 variety, instead.

Plum tomatoes ripe on the vine

Tomato ‘Apero’

‘Apero’ is a cherry variety with Brix rating of 9.5. Enjoy the zesty flavour in salads and grow it in full sun to maximise the sweetness.

Cherry tomato ‘Apero’ ripening on the vine

Tomato ‘Floridity’

With a Brix rating of 9.5, ‘Floridity’ is a mini plum variety, which produces trusses laden with fruit. Resistant to fruit split.

Mini plum tomato ‘Floridity’

Tomato ‘Sungold’

‘Sungold’ is a cherry variety bearing small orange-yellow fruits. A high sugar content give this tomato a Brix rating of 9.3. Good resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

Advertisement Orange-yellow cherry ‘Sungold’ tomatoes

Tomato ‘Sakura’

Rated 8.8 on the Brix scale for sweetness, ‘Sakura’ is a vigorous and high-yielding cherry tomato. It’s also resistant to Fusarium wilt.

Cherry tomato ‘Sakura’ on the vine

Grow tomatoes in full sun

For the sweetest tomatoes, grow them in the sunniest spot you can give them – they will not grow well in shade.

Organic Tomato Sakura F1


Tomato: Sakura F1
Solanum lycopersicum
Approx. 250-300 seed per gram
Tomatoes are pretty amazing things. They are easy to grow, as well as being great to eat.
Tomatoes are sub-divided into many varieties: suitable for growing inside, suitable for growing outside, those that grow tall (indeterminate), bush types (determinate). And then there are the different sizes: cherry, cocktail, salad, beefsteak and plum. There are also many different colours: red, orange, yellow, black, green and stripy.
There is nothing like picking a sun-warmed fresh tomato!

Sakura F1 is by far our most popular hybrid tomato, particularly amongst our market gardener customers. It produces large trusses of firm, cherry-type tomatoes which have an excellent taste and colour. It is very high-yielding and the fruits average about 22 g in weight.

How to grow:
Plant seeds in trays or modules of good organic compost between January and March at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C. Seed can also be planted in March and April – putting the trays on a sunny windowsill – if you do not have a propagator for earlier sowings.
Pot up into 8cm pots when the first few true leaves appear and the plants are approximately 8cm tall. Use a good quality organic potting compost with good nutrient levels and grow on at 10 degrees C. The plants grow rapidly and need the nitrogen particularly to stay green and healthy.
If you are growing in pots keep potting up the plants until you get to the largest size you have. Plant out in growbags, inside borders, or outside borders – depending on the variety, in April and May. Tomatoes are not frost hardy. Feed with an organic liquid feed when the first trusses of Tomatoes form and keep feeding and watering as required.
Try to keep the watering consistent and try not to let the plants dry out. Support tall growing varieties with strings or canes and pinch out the side shoots that grow from the base of the leaf joint, but not the flower stems!
Once the plants have set 3 or 4 trusses of fruit you can pinch out the growing tip of the plant. Remove older, yellowing leaves from the base of the plant and this will improve light and air flow to the lower trusses of fruit. Harvest your tomatoes when ripe from June until October.
Pests and diseases:
Tomatoes can be affected by whitefly, aphids, red spider mite and also potato blight. For greenhouse pests use a biological control if required.
Blight shows as brown patches on the leaves and it can spread to the fruit. Remove affected leaves and be careful not to transmit it from the potato patch to the greenhouse on muddy boots.
How to cook:
Tomatoes make wonderful salads. They can be mixed Italian style with basil, rocket and balsamic vinegar. They go well with cucumber, onions and olives in a greek salad. They are also integral in salsa with coriander and garlic.
They also cook fantastically well making sauce for pizza and pasta. We also love tomatoes in ratatouille, mixed with cheese and basil in tarts, in soup, chutney, you can even make your own tomato ketchup. The possibilities are almost endless!
Tomatoes also freeze very well if blended into passata or puree.

Cherry tomatoes are perfect for adding to salads, soups, sandwiches, or just popped into your mouth for a tasty, healthy snack.

Any way you put it, cherry tomatoes just plain rock!

The best thing about most cherry (or grape) tomatoes is just how prolific they are. Just a couple cherry tomato plants and you’ll soon have more of these little globes of juiciness than you know what to do with.

Some plants can produce hundreds and hundreds of cherry tomatoes in a single season, and they are fairly easy to grow.

Here’s the ten best cherry tomatoes you can grow in your vegetable garden.

Super Sweet 100 Cherry Tomato

The Super Sweet 100 is the classic red cherry tomato with incredibly sweet taste. These cherry tomatoes will continue to produce huge clusters all season long.

The vigorous indeterminate vine can grow to ten feet tall, and need to be trellised or staked up.

Italian Ice Cherry Tomato

The Italian Ice is just so pretty it is almost hard to eat them. These cherry tomatoes ripen from green to a cool-looking ivory color.

They have a very sweet taste and make an excellent picnic snack. If you want to ‘wow’ your friends and family, grow these beautiful little cherry tomatoes.

Yellow Pear Cherry Tomato

The Yellow Pear is a delicious cherry tomato that is shaped like a teardrop and is a bright yellow color.

They have a tangy flavor and are low in acidity which makes them perfect for those that can’t take the acids of typical tomatoes. The bite-sized fruit are perfect for party trays and snacks.

Black Pearl Cherry Tomato

Yes, the Black Pearl makes me think of Captain Jack Sparrow, too. But this cherry tomato is no pirate, it is a delicious tomato with a very distinct flavor.

The plant produces an abundance of reddish-black fruits that are very sweet. Perfect for a quick snack on a hot summer’s day.

Sun Gold Cherry Tomato

The Sun Gold is one of the most popular non-red cherry tomatoes available. They feature a very sweet, yet tart flavor that will have your taste buds jumping with joy.

These guys grow in huge clusters and ripen to a beautiful golden orange. The longer you allow them to ripen the sweeter they get.

Cherries Jubilee Cherry Tomato

The Cherries Jubilee can produce hundreds of sweet cherry tomatoes in a single season. They have a sweet, balanced flavor of sugar/acid which gives them a highly desirable taste.

Bloody Butcher Cherry Tomato

With a name like Bloody Butcher, you may think this tomato was born from a 1980’s horror movie.

Fortunately, there’s nothing scary about these delicious cherry tomatoes. They feature a rich heirloom flavor and deep red color, inside and out.

These cherry tomatoes have gained popularity because of their great taste and early production. You can begin enjoying these delish cherry tomatoes in less than eight weeks after planting.

Green Envy Cherry Tomato

The Green Envy is quickly becoming a highly sought-after cherry tomato because of its emerald green color, and sweet, yet tangy flavor.

The meaty interior makes it perfect for grilling, baking, or raw. Add a touch of interest by adding to your favorite salsa.

Napa Grape Tomato

The Napa Grape features elongated one inch tomatoes that grow in huge clusters. This cherry tomato has that classic bold tomato taste, just in a smaller package.

It’s ideal for adding to salads and sandwiches.

Honeybunch Cherry Tomato

The Honeybunch gets its name due to the incredible honey-like sweetness that makes this guy a real crowd pleaser.

Large clusters of these tomatoes will keep you happy all season long.

More Great Tomatoes

What are the Basic Components of Tomato Flavor?

Flavor is a balance of acidity and sugar, plus the influence of elusive volatile compounds for aroma and flavor that tomato breeders are itching to grasp. The volatile compounds are an emerging science, while sugars and acids are more fully understood. We all know that some tomatoes taste sweet, while other taste acidic. But why? “The ones that taste the most acidic, or sour, have higher level of acids combined with low level of sugars,” explains tomato breeder Dr. Randolph Gardner of North Carolina State University. “A tomato high in sugars and low in acids has a sweet taste. If a tomato is low in both acids and sugars, it has a bland taste. The preferred flavor for most people results from high levels of acids combined with high level of sugars to balance the taste.”

There are other inherent reasons for variation in the intensity of a tomato’s flavor and how acidic components balance with natural sugars. “An interaction of the plant’s genetics with the environment is the key to tomato flavor,” says University of Florida tomato breeder Dr. Jay Scott, who created Solar Fire tomato and developed a parent of Talladega tomato. (Incidentally, Jay Scott’s father, Wilbur Scott, developed Jet Star, another variety we sell.)

Here are a few ways you can choose varieties for flavor or tweak your gardening techniques to coax the most flavor from what you’ve planted:

  1. Size of fruit Cherry and grape tomatoes reach higher sugar concentrations that full-size tomatoes, so they taste sweeter. Want a really sweet tomato? Grow a cherry type.
  2. Color of fruit Different pigments in tomatoes tend to produce different balances of sugars and acids. For example, orange or yellow tomatoes often taste milder and less acidic than red tomatoes. Some black tomatoes—created from the mixture of green and red pigments—have a reputation of having complex flavor (which some people love and others don’t). It’s not necessarily that a yellow tomato is less acidic than a red or black tomato, but that the combination of sugar and acid levels, as well as other compounds, makes for a milder taste. Try some of each color and test for yourself.
  3. Foliage A lot of leaves can capture a lot of sunlight, so a plant with dense, healthy foliage can convert more sunlight into sugars and other flavorful components. Heirloom varieties have a greater percentage of leaf than do market-ready hybrids, which may partially explain their flavorful. Do all you can to keep leaves healthy.

Tomato ‘CherokeePurple’ may not look pretty, but people love its taste. Photo courtesy Burpee Home Gardens

by Connie Oswald Stofko

When I asked Jen Weber, retail manager at Mike Weber Greenhouses, for recommendations on the best-tasting tomatoes, I expected her to deliberate for awhile. I was surprised when she answered immediately.

“Oh, that’s easy,” Weber said. “‘Cherokee Purple’, and for a red tomato, ‘Glamour’.”

Those are both heirloom tomatoes.

When I asked her for the best-tasting hybrid tomato, that question proved more difficult.

“I don’t have a preference,” she said. “To me, they all taste the same.

“There is nothing wrong with the hybrids. I just prefer the flavor of heirloom varieties. They have that tart-sweet true tomato taste that we all love.”

Well, readers, I turn the question over to you. What hybrid tomato tastes the best? Or do you also prefer heirloom varieties? Please leave a comment below.

Heirloom vs hybrid tomatoes

To be dubbed an heirloom, the seeds for the plant must have been in circulation for at least 50 years and the plant must be open-pollinated, Weber explained.

Open-pollinated plants reproduce by cross-pollination between two plants via wind, insects or people. Or they reproduce by self-pollination between separate flowers on the same plant or between male and female flower parts contained within the same flower.

Because heirloom tomatoes are open-pollinated, if you save the seeds and plant them, you can expect to get plants with the same characteristics of the parent plant.

With hybrid tomato plants, two different varieties were intentionally crossed to produce a plant with certain traits, such as a tomato with a nice red color. Some people say hybrid tomatoes look nice, but don’t have the flavor that heirloom varieties do.

But hybrids were also bred to resist disease, which makes them easier to grow than hybrids. When you look at the tag of a hybrid tomato plant, you might see abbreviations such as V1 and F1, which indicate what diseases the plant is resistant to, Weber said. See a list here of tomato disease resistance.

Another advantage of hybrids is they may produce more tomatoes.

But you can’t plant the seeds of a hybrid and expect to get plants with the same characteristics as the parent plant; hybrids don’t produce true seeds, Weber said. The new plants will have DNA from just one of the parent plants that were crossed to produce the hybrid. You’ll end up with the characteristics of one of the parent plants rather than the characteristics of the hybrid itself. In addition, some hybrids are sterile. If you plant the seeds, they won’t even germinate.

Cherokee Purple

These tomatoes are a Cherokee Indian variety pre-1890 from the Tennessee Valley area, Weber said.

‘Cherokee Purple’ can be kidney shaped, round or knobby. It’s not red; it has what Weber calls a lovely deep, dusky purple-pink color with a greenish hue around the stem.

“But the flavor is sweet and juicy!” she said.

The other point gardeners should know is that while you might get only 10 tomatoes on a plant, the tomatoes are large– they can weigh about a pound.

And the plant can grow nine feet tall.

So how do you manage a plant that big?

In a previous article, Weber talked about growing tomatoes in containers, “but don’t grow these in a container!” Weber said.

You can’t use standard tomato cages, either. You need something that will support ten pounds of tomatoes plus the weight of a nine-foot plant.

Get some stakes that are 6 or 7 feet long and 1 inch by 1 inch or 2 inches by 2 inches wide. Place one stake about 1½ feet to the left and the other about 1½ feet to the right of the plant. Use a mallet to pound the stakes about a foot into the ground.

How do you reach the top of a 7-foot-long stake to pound it into the ground?

“I’m short; I’m only five feet tall,” Weber said. “My husband is 6’6″, but if he’s not home, I’ll get a stepladder.”

If you want to go for it, that’s the proper way to stake this huge plant. Or you could just use 4-foot stakes, though the plant might droop a little.

“Some years I go for it, some years I don’t,” said Weber, who like all of us, doesn’t have as much time as she would like to spend in her home garden. “Now that my kids are older, I might have them do it.”

Tie the plant to the stakes using cord that is heavier than twine but lighter than clothesline.

The tomatoes are heavy and they could fall off. Weber suggestd tying an old T-shirt or pantyhose to the cord to cradle the fruit.

Cherokee Purple sets fruit mid-season, which is August. (Setting fruit is when the flower begins to turn into the fruit.)

With the weather we had last year, the fruit wasn’t as big as usual and there weren’t as many– maybe as few as two.

Is it worth it to put in so much work for just a couple of tomatoes?

“I really like them, so it’s always worth it,” Weber said. “I always think one is better than none. It’s not like you can buy those in a grocery store.”


The heirloom tomato ‘Glamour’ is tasty and has a beautiful red color. Image used with permission from ©Victory Seed Company

There is some local history with this tomato, Weber said. It was bred by the Birds Eye Horticultural Research Laboratory in Albion specifically for the Northeast and Midwest areas of the United States. Two varieties of tomatoes, ‘Burgess Crackproof’ and ‘Sioux’, were open-pollinated together to make this cross breed. Glamour was then released to the Rochester market in 1957.

Glamour meets the definition of an heirloom: it is open-pollinated and the seeds have been in circulation for more than 50 years.

Glamour’s fruit is a beautiful red color and is crack proof. It’s great for both canning and slicing. The tomatoes are the size of a tennis ball and weigh roughly 6 ounces. The plant produces a heavy yield.

The plant is indeterminate, which in tomato language means it needs staking, Weber said. The plant grows about four or five feet tall.

Glamour sets fruit early to midseason. (Early is around the Fourth of July and midseason is August.)

When can you plant tomatoes in Western New York?

You can buy heirloom and hybrid tomato plants now at Mike Weber Greenhouses, 42 French Rd., West Seneca, but can you plant them now?

After a long discussion that touched on our late spring but early full moon (which is one gauge farmers use in determining when to plant), Weber answered, “Yes, you can plant tomatoes now, but I would still wait.”

Weber always recommends waiting until at least May 21.

“You want warm nights (at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit). If you plant too soon, you could stunt the growth of your tomato plant and it won’t recover. It won’t reach its maximum size.”

Other tender vegetables such as peppers, melon and squash want nights that are even warmer– about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant them too early, they’ll rot.

If you want to plant your tomatoes and the other vegetables all at the same time, just wait until the first week of June. They will catch up to– or even surpass– plants that were in the ground earlier.

“People are so antsy to plant,” Weber said, noting that people were looking for cucumber plants in April!

If you want to plant something now that you can be sure cold weather won’t damage, try lettuce, broccoli and onions. Those are available now at Mike Weber Greenhouses.

Growing your own is more than just being self-sufficient. It’s about growing varieties that are not readily available in shops and supermarkets, varieties that may not lend themselves to being produced on a mass commercial scale, but ones that taste amazing.

Tomatoes are a favourite when growing your own and rightly so. Easy to grow, they reward you with a bounty of beautiful fruit throughout summer. But with so many varieties and types to choose from, we wanted to discover which were the best tasting tomatoes and ensure that they were a part of our range.

What Makes a Tomato Taste Great?

When we set out to find the best tasting tomato we thought that maybe it was all
about sweetness. But it’s clear that what makes a tomato taste great is far more than
just that.

It’s the balance of sweetness and acidity along with a complex cocktail of
volatile aromas that all together leave us knowing that ‘this tomato tastes great!’

In 2016 Suttons started working with Exeter University to identify tomato varieties with the
highest nutrient levels. We have now extended our research into finding the most flavoursome
varieties and understanding what takes a tomato from good to gourmet.

The Tomato Taste Test

We asked breeders to let us test the varieties that they believed had the very best flavour. Having excluded any which didn’t thrive or crop well at our trials grounds, all the other varieties (including some supermarket premium varieties) were included in a blind taste trial at Exeter University.

Whilst there’s no doubt that newer premium supermarket varieties have moved on from
the uniformly boring and bland varieties for which they had become infamous, for the
very best flavour you still just can’t beat tomatoes picked fully ripe from your own vine and
eaten whilst they still hold the maximum levels of volatile aromas that make tomatoes
special. (Out of interest, the supermarket premium variety came 34th in our trial.)

The Results

In true countdown style, our top 3 tasting tomatoes are (drumroll please).…

3rd Place:

Gardener’s Delight
No surprises that in third place is a variety that has been a customer favourite for many years. The bite-sized fruits are packed with a rich, sweet flavour that won over our taste testers.

2nd Place:

F1 Sweet Petite
Missing out on the top spot is the cherry sized Sweet Petite. The deliciously sweet shiny red fruit had out tasters taste buds jumping for joy but it wasn’t quite enough to make it in to first place.

1st Place:

Tutti-Frutti F1 Cherry
A brand new introduction for 2018 are the Tutti-Frutti range. With varieties that contain a delicate hint of mandarin and red berries, it was the F1 Cherry with its hint of, you guessed it, cherry that beat all other contenders to claim top spot in out taste test.

Look out for other top performing varieties joining our range next year! Our work with the University continues…



Sun Baby is grown as a cordon type (indeterminate) tomato. It is probably best grown as a cordon if you want tomatoes early in the season. We have tried growing it as a bush type and it still produces a good crop but the foliage becomes crowded and runs the risk of fungal infections.

This variety produces a huge number of fruits per truss, (50 is not unusual) and we recommend no more than 4 trusses per plant. Each of those trusses may need its own bamboo cane support to stop the stem breaking. Aside from that, Sun Baby has no special requirements and it should be grown as described here and pruned as described here. General care advice throughout the growing season is given here.


Sun Baby tomatoes are fully yellow with only a slight tinge of orange. These are bite sized cherry tomatoes which weigh in at about 14g each (half an ounce). The skins are thinner than most of its competitors which can be important for many. It has a Brix rating of 7.8 for sweetness with a good balance of acidity and tomato flavour.

For all the tomato varieties which we have fully reviewed, click the drop down box below, select a variety and then click the More Information Button.


F1 OR OPEN POLLINATED?: Sun Baby is open pollinated and will grow true from saved seed. for clear instructions and even clearer pictures on how to save seeds from Sun Baby tomatoes. This is a good alternative to the F1 Sungold (much more expensive) which will not grow true from saved seed.
GROWTH TYPE: Cordon type, needs to be pruned to get the best crop. This is an mid season maturing variety which takes 80 days from transplant to fruit maturity.
WHERE TO GROW: Cold greenhouse or outdoors in many areas of the UK.
USE: Salads, and by itself
SKIN COLOUR / TEXTURE: Yellow and thin
TASTE AND TEXTURE: Good mixture of sweetness and acidity, flesh has lots of juice.
STORAGE: Stores well and can be ripened on the windowsill well.
TOMATO SIZE: Typical cherry tomato size, weighing about 15g per fruit.
REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Regularly produces a good yield with a very large number of fruits per truss, often in excess of 50. Expect 150 to 200 fruits per plant although not all may ripen fully on the truss.
SPECIAL FEATURES: Thin skinned and good flavour


The key dates for sowing and planting out Sun Baby tomato seeds are given below. The dates displayed below are correct for the UK average. If you want them to be even more accurate and adjusted for your area of the UK . It only takes a minute and the adjustment affects every date in this site and lasts for six months.

  • Sow seeds in pots indoors
    First week of March
  • Pot up young plants
    First week of April
  • Harden off young plants
    First week of May
  • Plant out young plants
    Third week of May


This variety is a cordon type tomato and if they are pruned in that way you can expect to be picking your first Sun Baby tomatoes in the second week of August


Seeds for this variety are not widely available in the UK but there are a few suppliers online. You are very unlikely to find these seeds for sale at garden centres.

The cheapest reliable seeds for Sun Baby we could find this year was from Chiltern Seeds.

If you need any more information on growing this variety, to go to our main tomato page.

Other varieties which may also be of interest include:


Tomato Sun Cherry Premium F1

There are cherries and there are cherries! This one is the latest and greatest and the Japanese breeders claims it is the best red yet. Exceptionally high brix reading (sweetness scale) and if the first year’s trial is anything to go by, we’re confident you’ll grow it again and again. Cordon. 70-80 days from transplanting.

How to Grow Tomato from Seed

Tomatoes can be bush, cordon (single stemmed) or vine varieties. Side shoots should be removed from the cordon varieties but are usually allowed to grow on bush or vine types. Vine tomatoes can be compact, intermediate or tall.

There are regular leaf varieties and potato leaf varieties, and types more suited to greenhouse or outdoor growing.

Tomatoes are easy to grow from seed, and the flavour of a ripe, freshly picked, sun-warmed tomato has been likened to tasting sunshine. Tomato seeds should be planted from late January through to April and kept at a temperature of 70-80F where germination occurs within 7 to 14 days.

When the seedlings are large enough to handle (2-4 leaves), transplant into individual 3 inch pots, and space well apart so that the leaves of one plant never overlap another, this helps prevent them getting leggy. Allow the roots to fill the pot before transplanting on again into Gro-Bags or 10inch pots. Keep tomato plants frost free at all times.

Most tomato plants require some kind of support by the time they reach 8 inches, either staking, stringing up or the use of growing frames is recommended.

Lower leaves should be removed as they start yellowing, which improves air flow and helps speed up ripening. Tomato plants need a sunny position.

Most cherry-type tomatoes do very well in sunny patio containers and hanging baskets. Be sure to offer plenty of light, and monitor moisture; plants grown in containers often dry out faster than those planted in the ground.

Space tomatoes around 3 feet apart, it is tempting to place them closer together when planting out but as the plants grow the light and airflow around them will reduce and the risk of disease will increase if they are too close together.

Water tomatoes thoroughly and evenly, but not too often, aim to keep moistire levels constant, avoiding over wetting or allowing the compost to dry out completely. Watering early in the day and keeping water away from the leaves where possible will allow the plants to dry off before evening and help to reduce the risk of disease.

Tomatoes can be harvested when they begin to show colour, they will continue to ripen after being removed from the plant. However, the closer you can get to vine-ripened the better the flavour will be. Fresh ripe tomatoes should not be stored in the refrigerator. Flavour and texture begins to deteriorate when the temperature drops below 12°C . Tomatoes are best stored at room temperature away from direct sunlight until ready to use. Refrigeration slows the ripening of tomatoes. Refrigerate only extra-ripe tomatoes you want to keep from ripening any further.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *