Trachelospermum j.

Trachelospermum jasminoides

  • Position: full sun or partial shade
  • Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
  • Flowering period: June to August
  • Height: 4-8m
  • Foliage: evergreen
  • Hardiness: needs winter protection

Trachelospermum jasminoides. A much-loved evergreen climber grown for its glossy, dark green leaves which often turn bronze or red when the temperatures drop in winter. It bears heavenly, scented starry flowers in mid-summer. Trachelospermum jasminoides ‘Star of Tocane’ produces lovely yellow flowers. These climbers flower best in full sun or partial shade in a sheltered position, as they dislike cold, drying winds.


How and when to prune Trachelospermum jasminoides (Star jasmine). A mature Trachelospermum jasminoides needs little pruning. If necessary remove weak or damaged growth. You can also cut back badly placed shoots. Do this job in March. If there are frosts, delay pruning.

Drastic pruning. If Trachelospermum jasminoides gets too big for its support, prune after it has flowered. Prune back any shoots to fit the available space.


Trachelospermum jasminoides is a self-clinging, twining climber, but offer a young plant some support. Tie the climber to the support to help it on its way.


Will Trachelospermum jasminoides (Star jasmine) survive winter. Trachelospermum jasminoides can withstand – 10 degrees Celsius in a sheltered position. During very severe frosts protect the leaves with layers of garden fleece and cover the base of the plant with a thick layer of dry mulch.

This ‘Star Jasmine’ bringing a seasonal colour to the garden

Peter Dowdall says Tracheleospermum jasminoides is a stalwart plant for summer scent and striking winter colour.

Normally, when I talk about seasonal colour in autumn and winter, I refer to deciduous plants whose display is a precursor to leaf drop as the plants divest themselves of unnecessary foliage for the winter.

The autumn colour display is caused by dropping chlorophyll levels in the plant coming into winter and as a result, the colour of the other pigments can be seen.

Thus the reds, coppers and oranges are revealed – colours we are so used to at that time of the year.

Tracheleospermum jasminoides, however, is an evergreen plant which doesn’t drop its leaves each year and which is looking absolutely breathtaking at the moment.

The botanical name may be a bit of a mouthful, but it’s known as Evergreen Jasmine or Star Jasmine and like the true Jasmine, it flowers during the summer, producing masses of sweetly scented white flowers which will whisk you right back to those summer evenings spent in warmer climes.

It’s a climbing plant and needs a wall or some such structure to support its rambling habit. Evergreen jasmine also needs a south or west-facing aspect, delighting in the amount of sunlight such a position will give it, and refusing to thrive in an area that’s less bright. It simply will not tolerate a north facing wall with no sunshine.

In terms of soil it will tolerate most providing it’s well drained and whilst it is not pH sensitive to a great degree, I have found the leaf colour to be better in slightly acidic soils, so perhaps a mulch with some ericaceous compost once a year is advisable.

It will also thrive in a coastal garden, not something that you may expect from a plant as delicate looking as this one. Its waxy leaves, however, work well in reducing transpiration and protect it from the worst of the salt winds in such areas.

Deciding on which climbing plants to use in your garden is a big decision, as whichever you choose will have a huge presence, covering wall space, sheds and even climbing up trees. It’s impossible not to notice established climbers.

So, it’s even more important that you choose a variety that you like and that offers colour and interest at all times of the year.

This is where the Tracheleospermum comes into its own; the fact that it’s evergreen means, plainly enough, that it will give foliage interest all year round and that you’re not left looking through masses of bare stems and branches for several months during the winter.

As gardens get smaller or, as is the case with many gardeners, fuller, then the plants that we choose become more important and we need to be clever when deciding on which are given valuable space.

Don’t look at your walls as places to be covered as quickly and cheaply as possible, rather look at them as an opportunity to add an extra dimension to the garden and to bring the colour and beauty up from the ground.

Certainly, the best flowering climbers tend to be of the Clematis and Rosa genera varieties, but both groups are largely deciduous so what then for the winter months? You could look at planting them with other climbers which will be evergreen and thus have the best of both worlds.

Evergreen Jasmine offers not just scented white flowers during the summer, nor the added bonus of constant foliage — but it also takes on this coppery, red seasonal look over the winter that really sets it apart.

Each season it offers something of interest, making it worthy of inclusion and to have two sensational displays during the year on an otherwise evergreen plant makes it an absolute must for the garden.

Plant it near the house, somewhere where you will benefit from the scented blooms during the summer and from where you can admire its colour at the moment, to help lift the seasonal gloom.

No point having it doing its thing down in a far corner of the garden where only the local wildlife will get to enjoy its beauty.

The wonderful thing about gardens and gardening is that it is one of these pursuits that’s available to all. You don’t need a great big garden in the country to enjoy this plant.

Even if all that you have is an apartment balcony you can grow this beauty provided you have good levels of sunlight.

Simply grow it in a big enough pot and train it over the doorway or window and you will enjoy the greenery, scent and colour all year long.

Star Jasmine is a versatile plant indeed. It can be trained to grow on a trellis, over an arbor, as an espalier against a wall or fence, as a border plant or hedge, to spill over a wall and it’s also suited to containers. The sweetly scented star-like flowers along with the gorgeous glossy foliage are its big draw. This is all about how to care for and grow Star Jasmine.

I’m standing under a Star Jasmine arch in the kitchen garden at the Westward Look Resort here in Tucson.

This twining, vining plant isn’t true jasmine, like Pink Jasmine which is, although the flowers would make you think otherwise. The botanic name is Tracelospermum jasminoides and it’s in the same family with a few plants you might be familiar with: oleander, plumeria, adenium and vinca. By the way, Confederate Jasmine is another common name for Star Jasmine.

In the back corner of my garden sharing Star Jasmine growing tips:

How to Care for and Grow Star Jasmine


Star Jasmine can reach 25-30′ tall. It needs support to reach that height otherwise it just flops back on itself. It’s a twining vine so you’ll need to train & attach it at the start. It’ll do its thing after that & needs just a little guidance as it grows. Not hard at all to do. As a ground cover, it can easily be kept at 2′.

This Star Jasmine climbs to 25′ with the help of wires in a corner of this building.


It’s hardy to zone 8 & can take temperatures down to 10-15 degrees F. This plant adapts well to both heat & cold.

When to Plant

Star Jasmine is best planted in spring or fall (with enough time to settle in before the below-freezing temps hit). The plants have an easier time settling in while the days are warm & the evenings are cool. You can plant in the summer but will have to water more as it’s establishing.


Star Jasmine takes full sun on the coast, somewhere like San Diego or San Francisco. Here in Tucson, or other places with hot summers, it needs to be protected from full sun. Mine gets 1 hour of direct sun in the morning & a little bit late in the afternoon but it’s bright all day. The more sun it gets, the more water it needs to keep it looking tip-top.


Regular watering is best. Here in the desert, I water my Star Jasmine (which is on drip) twice a week in the hotter months. For you, regular watering might mean every 10-14 days. It’s not a drought tolerant plant but it’s not water greedy either. More sun, more heat = more water.


This plant is fairly versatile when it comes to soil but prefers it on the loamy side with good drainage. If planting in a container, use a good quality organic potting soil.


I’ve maintained & planted many Star Jasmines & never fertilized them. They’ve always been very happy with a good dose of organic compost. I put a 4″ layer over the planting surface of mine in winter which not only nourishes it, but holds some moisture too. If you prefer, this all-purpose balanced fertilizer would be just fine to apply right after the plant is through flowering.

Star Jasmine kept low as a ground cover.


The 2 pests that I’ve seen infest Star Jasmine is mealy bugs & scale.

Star Jasmine is best pruned right after flowering. It does ooze out a milky sap when cut but it never bothered me. It can be pruned heavily, like as a border plant, or lightly, like when grown as a tall vine. I’ll prune mine after it’s through flowering & then do a light pruning in November if needed. I find this plant to be very manageable & not at all hard to prune.


Oh yes, it does! A profusion of starry white flowers covers the plant in spring or early summer, depending on your zone. The flowers are sweetly scented (not as strong as Pink Jasmine) & last for a couple of months.

Flowers in starry clusters against a blue desert sky.

Things to Love About Star Jasmine

It’s versatility.

Easy to maintain. It’s manageable & takes pruning very well.

The foliage is a beautiful dark glossy green with the contrast of spring green new foliage.

You can find it in garden centers as well as big box stores. In case you don’t have any close, here’s a Star Jasmine you can order online.

This plant comes in a variegated form too if that’s your thing.

And of course, the sweetly scented flowers.

I love this plant and am so glad that my new home has a well established one. Do you have a favorite? Star Jasmine Or Pink Jasmine? Inquiring horticultural minds want to know!

Happy gardening & thanks for stopping by,

If You’d Like to Learn More About Star Jasmine Care, Check Out These Care Guides Below!

How to Prune A Star Jasmine Vine

The Best Time To Prune Star Jasmine

Pruning and Shaping My Star Jasmine Vine

How and When To Prune A Sunburned, Heat-Stressed Star Jasmine

We Love Caring for These Plants Too!

How To Grow Pink Jasmine Vine

Bougainvillea: Care and Growing Tips

A Plant With Major Attitude: Cup Of Gold Vine

Looking for more gardening tips? Check out Gardening 101 here.

Trachelospermum Jasminoides Chinese Star Jasmine

An excellent form of evergreen climber. Highly recommended by onlineplants for use as a rambling climber, espalier or even a groundcover.

If using as a prostrate form, pin the foliage down so it grows roots and continues to spread. Chinese star jasmine is lightly perfumed and dark green foliaged with small white star flowers. It will flower sporadically all year with a main flush in spring and summer.

Can be grown in pots as semi formal espaliers or poles, or use a mass fence covering with trellis work to hold in position. Well drained fertile soil with annual organic feeding will suffice and twice per year pruning will encourage a bushy shape.

Available for fast delivery to your door in all Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Canberra and Brisbane, metropolitan and regional areas. Will benefit from feeding twice per year with a complete plant food and liquid fertiliser.

Buy Trachelospermum jasminoides Chinese Star Jasmine from Online Plants – leading plant nursery Melbourne offering Australian wide delivery. We deliver to all Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Canberra and Brisbane, metropolitan and regional areas.

Trachelospermum jasminoides

Hello, I bought three specimen Jasmine shrubs which were plated in a trough placed where it gets sun most of the day. Whilst it’s flowering and growing well, the leaves have gone a rusty colour. Is there some way I can help them?



The leaves of these plants does tend to turn reddish when the temperatures drop, however as it is summer, then I suspect the plants are feeling overcrowded (three of these in one trough is very dense planting), so I would either try to separate them, potting each up into its own pot, or keeping them as well fed and watered as possible, but resigning yourself to the fact that in the long term, these plants will need to be replaced.



Hello, we have a small, fenced London garden that is south facing. Would it be ok to plant this now, or might it be better to wait until spring?



The chances are that it will be fine in a sheltered London garden, however it is not fully hardy, so if we have another winter like the last one, you could lose it. If you are concerned, then it may be better to wait until the spring, as that way it will have a full season to get established before it has to face its first winter outside.



Can it be grown in a container? If so what size/shape would you recommend and what sort of potting mix? Thanks



Hello there Yes this can be grown in a pot but make sure it is a good sized pot, something like a 50-60cm diameter, and make sure it is keep well watered and fed. I would use a good compost like a John Innes no3.

2018-01-17 Please may I ask when is the best time to plant outside? As we’re already into December am I too late? Thank you.



Hello, This plant is not quite fully hardy, so unless you have a particularly sheltered garden, I would advise waiting until spring before planting out.



Please could you tell me how many plants I would need to cover a fence that is approx. 5-6m long?



Hello, It really depends on how impatient you are. These plants have an ultimate height and spread of around 3 x 9m, so if you are happy to wait, then you could probably get away with just the one. If however you want more immediate cover, then you could plant three or even five along the fence.



My newest trachelospermum has been doing really well – lots of buds and flowers but the flowers have quickly turned brown. Another (much more established) plant in a different border is in much better condition – thousands of healthy flowers. I think the aspect is right but the new plant is in clay soil (into which I have tried to incorporate much topsoil) whereas the older plant is not. Is this the problem?



Hello, There are a couple of things that may be causing this, however I think that the main cause is probably related to how much sun the plant is getting. Flowers will tend to fade faster if they get lots of hot mid-day or early afternoon sun, and watering may also play a part as the flowers will be the first thing to be shed if the plant is stressed. Finally, when watering, avoid wetting the flowers as this too may cause them to rot, or if hit by strong sunlight soon afterwards, scorch.

2016-08-08 Hello I was thinking of buying this climber to grow up a small North-East facing wall. The wall will get the sun early morning but not after. Does that count as “full sun” or should it be west or south? Thanks



Hello there Really a Trachelospermum needs a sheltered, sunny south or west facing aspect, so a north east aspect won’t be warm enough for it. There are other plants that will grow in a north east aspect with limited sun. I have attached a link below. Hope this helps

2016-03-17 Hi there: How long is the flowering period? Is it as long as the Star of Toscana? What are the differences between the two apart from colour? Thanks!



Hello, These tend to flower from mid- to late summer, although the weather does affect this, and they often have a smattering of flowers into autumn.



A simple question I hope – what size of plant is supplied?



Hello there This plant in a 2lt pot will be approx 60cm tall. Hope this helps



I bought and planted one of these star jasmine plants in April to grow round a garden arch. Though the roots are mostly in shade, the plant gets afternoon/evening sun. Last month I noticed that the leaves had started to get dark brown spots on them and I’m not sure what the cause is. The plant looks generally healthy and is flowering, and the leaves aren’t fully turning brown, but the spots are on nearly all leaves, including new growth coming through. I’ve pruned off some of the worst affected, but don’t want to remove them all otherwise I’d be stripping the young plant of most of its leaves! Are the spots likely to be fungal or environmental? It has been quite a cool, wet summer?



Hello, I suspect you are right on two counts as it is likely that the spots are caused by a fungus (fungal leaf spot actually) and that this is often brought about by environmental stress. For more information please click on the following link.



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