Pear Tree Pollination

Pollinating Pear Trees – Choosing a Partner

Many pear trees need to be cross-pollinated with another variety to make fruit.
To help you choose the right trees to pollinate each other, we have put them into 4 groups in the colour coded table below.

It’s very easy: a pear tree can cross-pollinate with any tree in its own group or a group next to it on the table. So, it works like this:

  • Trees in group A can cross-pollinate with trees in groups A and B.
  • Trees in group B can cross-pollinate with trees in groups A, B and C (i.e. any other tree).
  • Trees in group C can cross-pollinate with trees in groups B and C.
  • Trees in Group D can cross-pollinate with trees in groups C and D.

Pear Tree Pollination Groups

Name Use Harvest Pollination Group Cross Pollinates With Which Groups?
Conference Eating Mid A A,B
Louise Bonne of Jersey Eating Mid A A,B
(Except Williams Bon Chretien)
Beth Eating Early B A,B,C
Beurre Hardy Eating Mid B A,B,C
(A poor pollinator for other pears)
Brandy Perry Mid B A,B,C
Glou Morceau Eating Mid B A,B,C
Merton Pride Eating Early B A,B,C
(Triploid – cannot pollinate other trees)
Williams bon Chretien Eating Early B A,B,C
(Except Louise Bonne of Jersey)
Winter Nelis Eating Late B A,B,C
Cannock Perry Mid C B,C,D
Concorde Eating Mid C B,C,D
Doyenne du Comice Eating Mid C B,C,D
(Except Onward)
Humbug Eating / Cooking Late C B,C,D
Invincible Eating / Cooking Mid C B,C,D
Onward Eating Mid C B,C,D
(Except Doyenne du Comice)
Sensation Eating Early C B,C,D
Hellens Early Eating / Cooking Mid D C,D

More Facts About Pear Tree Pollination:
For two pear trees to cross-pollinate each other, the flowers of both trees need to be open at the same time.
The groups above refer to each tree’s flowering period: Group A is Early, Group B is Mid-Season etc.
Because the flowering periods overlap, trees in each of the 3 groups can cross-pollinate trees in the group or groups next to them

Flowering Dates vs Harvest Dates:
Your pear tree’s flowering group is not connected with the date when the fruit ripens.
You will notice that all of the early and late cropping pear trees are in the mid season flowering group, while all of the early and late flowering trees crop in the main season.

Self Fertile Pear Trees:
The fact is that many pears aren’t very good at pollinating themselves.
Conference and Concorde are truly self-fertile, while trees such as Louise Bonne of Jersey trees are partially self-fertile, which means they will carry some fruit without another variety to pollinate them, but their crops will be much larger if there is.
Not all is lost if you do not have room for two pear trees however. Pollination is done mainly by bees who fly enormous distances on their pollen “collection” rounds. As long as a neighbour within a few gardens has a compatible pear (which includes ornamental pears) you should be fine.

See all of our Growing Guides | Look at our range of UK grown Pear Trees

Briggs Garden & Home

Most fruit trees require cross-pollination (the pollen of a different but compatible variety) to yield a crop of fruit. Pears, sweet cherries and Japanese plums fall into this category. Other fruit trees, such as peaches, figs and sour cherries are self-fruitful, meaning they yield fruit from their own pollen. Another group of fruit trees, including most apples, are semi self-fruitful. Trees in this group will yield an adequate crop without cross-pollination, but yields increase with cross-pollination.

Cross-pollination is accomplished by planting two or more varieties side by side or grafting two or more varieties on one trunk. The cross-pollination varieties must bloom at the same time and be compatible with one another. The length of the blooming season varies from 7 to 15 days depending on the fruit, varietal strain and weather. Cold, windy and wet weather can prevent bee activity and therefore hinder cross-pollination during fruit blooming.

Apples and Pears
In order for apple and pear trees to produce fruit, there has to be a second tree for cross-pollination to occur. As long as a second tree is within 500 feet of the first, pollination should take place. If your apple or pear trees are not performing to satisfaction, the following list will help you trouble-shoot:

Cool, rainy weather conditions during flowering
Unfortunately, other than hoping for better luck next year, there is nothing that can be done.

Old, unproductive trees that don’t flower
Generally, apple and pear trees have a productive lifespan of about 30-40 years. Trees can be rejuvenated by removing old, unproductive growth and allowing new growth to replace it.

A poor crop the year after a bumper crop
Some apple varieties tend to perform biennially, with a great crop one year, not so great the next and a better crop again the third year.

No trees of the same genus nearby
It is always best to pollinate fruit trees of the same genus with each other (apples with apples, pears with pears) but pears can cross-pollinate with apples as long as both trees bloom at the same time.

The other cultivar in the yard is sterile
Some (but not all) crabapple trees work for cross-pollination. A few varieties have sterile pollen.

Lack of pollinating insects
Try adding to your flowerbeds. Most flowering plants are guaranteed to attract bees. The annual herb Borage and the perennial Bee-Balm (Monarda) are especially good for this purpose. Due to their flowering times coinciding with those of many fruit trees, marigolds, pansies, spurge, trollius and arabis are the best choices.

The trees are of the same variety
Clones will not pollinate each other. For example, a Norland apple tree cannot pollinate another Norland apple tree.

European apricots are self-pollinating. Manchurian and Siberian apricots fruit more dependably with other apricot varieties or Nanking cherries.

Cherries and Plums
Sour cherries are self-pollinating. In order for cross-pollination of the remainder of cherries and plums to occur, it is essential that they bloom at the same time. Many chokecherries will also aid in cross-pollination. Plums must be from the same region of the world to cross-pollinate (European plums with European plums, Asian with Asian, etc.). The closer the relationship between species, the more abundant the fruit will be.

Grapes are self-pollinating. Cross-pollination is not essential, but some hybrids may have non-viable pollen. Planting two or more varieties will solve the problem.

Blueberries are self-pollinating but two or more varieties result in better yields and larger berries.

Currants and Gooseberries
Currants and gooseberries are self-pollinating. Excellent fruit production can be obtained with just one plant. If currants are grown near gooseberries or jostaberries, however, yields can be even better.

Strawberries and Raspberries
Strawberries and raspberries are both self-pollinating.

Kiwi Fruit
Both male and female plants are required to produce fruit. You need at least one of each plant but a male can cross-pollinate up to 8 females. Plants must be 2-3 years old before they can produce fruit.

Growing apples and pears in your backyard is not as simple as just digging hole, plopping in a tree and waiting for the bounty.

Contra Costa Master Gardener Darlene DeRosa says you need to do research about the type of tree and your own growing conditions, but enjoying fresh fruit in the fall makes it well worth the effort.

Here are some tips on growing apples and pears:

Decisions, decisions

  • Before buying your trees, decide what kinds you want. Sample apples from stores and the farmer’s market to discover if your taste preferences. Also consider harvest times. Depending on the tree, apples and pears ripen from July through October.
  • Once you’ve made your choices, research growing conditions the trees need. Will they do well in your soil type and climate? Some trees need colder winters to produce fruit, or particular soils. It’s better to know whether they will thrive in your yard before you make the commitment.
  • Trees are sold as bare root or potted. Bare root season runs from December through March, so you may have to opt for a potted tree.
  • An advantage of buying bare root is you can order trees from a nursery or online and get a larger selection to choose from. There are more than 6,000 varieties of apple trees, but only about 40 that are favorites of California gardeners.
  • One of the benefits of potted trees is that you can purchase them throughout the year, but a disadvantage is that you don’t know how long the tree has been in the pot. It may be stock left over from the bare root season.
  • Before buying, check the health of the tree. If it’s potted, ask the store to pull it out so you can check the condition of the roots. For bare root trees, pay attention to the size of the trunk. The caliper should be no smaller than a half inch and no greater than 5/8ths.
  • The trees come in three sizes — standard, semi-dwarf and dwarf. Dwarf fruit trees tend to be a bit fussy, DeRosa says, so if you’re looking for a smaller tree, consider a semi-dwarf or standard, then prune it to keep it the size you want.
  • Keeping trees smaller means you won’t be overwhelmed by too much fruit, and it will be easier to harvest.
  • Think about how much space you have and how large the trees will get at maturity.
  • Planting apple or pear trees close together will benefit the trees and not take up as much space in your yard. Most can be planted about 18 inches apart.

    Things to know

  • Most apple and pear trees require a second, compatible tree for cross-pollination, so make sure you know if your tree will need one, and the suitable companion tree.
  • A companion tree for pollination doesn’t have to be on your property. If you have a neighbor with an apple or pear tree, ask them about the variety. If the trees are fairly close together, bees will pollinate both.
  • Not every apple or pear tree will cross pollinate with others. Know what type of trees are needed to ensure cross-pollination.


  • If you’re considering planting apple or pear trees, now is the time to do it. Next month will be too late. You want to plant when the trees are in their dormant stage. Most trees break dormancy by late April.
  • Choose a spot in your yard that gets 6 to 8 hours of full sun every day, all year long.
  • Don’t amend your soil before planting. Research has shown that if you amend the area where you are planting, the tree’s roots won’t have incentive to venture beyond the hole.
  • If you’re planting a potted tree, dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. For bare root, dig a shallow area and plant on top of the soil, spreading the roots out and then covering them with native soil — soil dug from the same general area in your garden.
  • In both cases, mound the soil around the plant so that water will drain down the mound, away from the tree trunk. This will prevent rot.
  • Most trees suffer from overwatering, not underwatering, so make sure you have good drainage. Before planting, dig a test hole and fill it with water. Check back in three to four hours. If the water has drained, fill it up again and check it in another three or four hours. If you have good drainage, you shouldn’t find standing water in the hole. If you do, plant somewhere else.
  • After planting a young tree, cut off the top at about knee height, leaving about 28 inches. This will direct the tree to focus all its energy on producing new growth and limbs, not on extending the old ones. This will invigorate the tree, help train it to stay at the size you want, and start the tree’s structure off right.
  • Paint the bark of the tree with a mixture of 50 percent water and 50 percent latex paint in a light color. This will protect the tree from sunburn and prevent damage from boring insects.
  • Mulch around the tree, but keep it away from the trunk of the tree.


  • Don’t overwater your trees, but make sure they get the water they need.

    Water needs will differ depending on the size of the tree and how hot the day is. The method of watering can make a difference, too. Research watering needs on the internet.

    Common problems

  • If you aren’t getting much or any fruit, be patient. Some trees can take up to seven years to bear fruit.
  • If you don’t have another tree for cross-pollination, you will not have fruit, or will have very little.
  • We remain in a drought so look for signs that your trees may be stressed. Symptoms may be small fruit, small shoot growth, and wilting, curling or sunburned leaves.
  • Codling moth is common in apple trees. Removed infested fruit; you can place smaller paper bags over the remaining fruit on the tree to prevent further infestation.
  • Pears can suffer from fire blight, which is common when we have periods of hot weather followed by rains. This year may see a lot of fire blight. If you see it — it looks like the foliage and blooms have been burned — remove all infected fruit, flowers, stems and branches.
  • Check for treatment sprays for both problems.

    Next week in Our Garden, Growing vegetables in containers. Follow Joan Morris on

    Our Garden

    Our Garden offers free classes at 10 a.m. every Wednesday from April through October. Master Gardeners are available to answer questions and a large selection of seedling are available. All produce grown at the garden is donated to the Monument Crisis Center in Concord. The garden is at Wiget Lane and Shadelands Drive, Walnut Creek.

  • Family Pear Tree | Conference, Williams’ & Comice Pear

    The product table at the bottom of the page gives the forms and sizes available for this variety. Please note, photos are a guideline as all plants are unique. Below are definitions of terms:

    Supplied Size: Height measured from the top of the pot.

    Single Stem / Pruned and shaped: Classic shaped tree with a single stem that has had pruning to help create a beautiful, natural shape.

    Top grafted: A height noted next to this form refers to the length of clear stem, which will not grow taller. Only the head of branches will develop. Top grafted trees do not require complicated pruning and are ideal for small spaces.

    Feathered: A feathered tree has branches from the bottom of the trunk all the way up. These branches can be removed if a clear stem is required.

    Multi Stem: A multi stem tree has two or more stems arising from or near ground level, growing from one root system. Take care to buy a true multi-stem like all ours and not those that are 3 saplings in a pot to cheaply imitate them.

    Bush: A plant with many stems low down, rather than one clear stem.

    Clump: Several plants in one pot that can give the appearance of a multi stemmed and very bushy tree.

    Climber: A plant that is a natural climber and will be delivered usually running up a bamboo cane, ready to position in the garden.

    Standard Tree: A more mature tree with an upright clear stem of approximately 1.8m-2.0m (measured from the soil to the lowest branches of the crown). Standards are available in different forms relating to their girth size (circumference of the stem measured 1m above soil level), not height:

    Standard either 6-10cm or 8-10cm girth, approximately 2.5-3.0m in height
    Premium Standard 10-12cm girth, approximately 3.0-3.5m in height
    Heavy Standard 12-14cm girth, approximately 3.5-4.5m in height
    Extra Heavy Standard 14-16cm girth approximately 4.0-6m in height

    Doyenne du Comice

    Variety description

    Origin : French variety from the region of Angers, known since 1840
    Picking date : 5 to 6 weeks after Williams. Harvest to be started when the firmness is around à 5 kg/cm²
    Fruit size : big
    Uses : one of the consumers favourite due to its outstanding eating qualities


    Blossom date : diploid variety with good quality pollen which blooms just after Williams.
    Pollinator : Concorde, Conference, Williams and its mutants
    Triebwachstum : fruit on 2 and 3 year old wood
    Vigour : very vigorous tree. Good compatibility with quince
    Productivite : middle rapid
    Time till first cropping : possible, needs good pollination / thinning neccesary in case of heavy crop load
    Susceptibility to alternate bearing / thinning : possible, needs good pollination
    Susceptibility / resistance to diseases : possible, needs good pollination
    Eclaircissage : thinning neccesary in case of heavy crop load


    Skin / shape : pear shaped and short, rather irregular and non symetric. Short and thick peduncle. Green-yellow skin. Some fruit might be blushed on the sunny side
    Flesh / taste : fine and melting flesh, both sweeth and tangy. The excellent eating quality is appreciated by most consumers
    Storage potential : good – January in normal cold store (à 0°C), March in CA store

    Adapted from The Edible Balcony by Alex Mitchell

    Apple Trees

    Tetra Images/getty

    It’s the quintessential orchard fruit that can grow as a bush on dwarfing rootstock or as an espalier, U-shaped cordon, or double U. Delectable dessert varieties include Gala, Fuji, and Honeycrisp, all of which will pollinate each other, or try Jonagold, Pink Lady, Ashmeads Kernal, or Cox. Good cooking varieties include Gordon, Liberty, and Sierra Beauty.

    Pear Trees

    Silvia Maurer / EyeEm/getty

    A ripe pear is a wonderful thing, but since pears flower early, late frosts can damage their crops. To be on the safe side, cover the branches with fleece if they’re in blossom when a frost is forecast. Pears can be grown as a bush on dwarfing rootstock or as a cordon, espalier, U-shaped cordon, or double U. Good dessert varieties include Bartlett, Moonglow, and Doyenne du Comice.

    Cherry Trees

    Claire Higgins/getty

    Modern cherries are self-fertile, so you only need one tree to ensure a good crop — f you can keep the birds off, that is. Netting may be a necessary defense as the fruit ripens. Expect beautiful blossom and lots of fruit when the tree is established. Grow cherries as a bush on dwarfing rootstock or as a fan against a warm wall.

    Good varieties include Lapins and Stella. If you have a shady, north-facing wall, a morello or acid cherry will thrive as a fan, producing tart cherries that are excellent when cooked.

    Plum Trees

    Claire Higgins/getty

    These accommodating trees deliver heavy crops with very little asked from you in return. Pruning is minimal (and certainly should never be attempted except in summer, to avoid fungal infection), and most are self-fertile.

    The only thing they demand is thinning of developing fruits; otherwise, plum trees tend to produce far too many plums one year, followed by nothing the next. Thin plums in midsummer so they’re about 2 inches apart. Either grow plums as a bush on dwarfing rootstock or as a fan. Try greengages for their unique buttery texture and sweetness.

    Peach and Apricot Trees

    Cosmo Condina/getty

    Once you’ve tasted your first ripe peach or apricot straight from your own tree, there’s no going back. Such experiences have to be repeated, and you’ll go to no end of trouble to do so. As with all container fruit trees, make sure you buy a tree with the suitable dwarfing rootstock. A good dwarf peach is Bonanza; try Pixzee or Pixie-cot for a dwarf apricot. All of these can be grown as freestanding trees in pots and need little pruning; alternatively, they can be grown as fans.

    Both peaches and apricots are hardy when dormant over winter, but since they blossom early in the spring, the flowers are susceptible to frost damage. Bring the tree inside when in blossom if frost is forecast, or cover it with horticultural fleece if it’s trained against a wall.

    Although self-fertile, both trees can benefit from a bit of help with pollination to ensure you get a good crop: When the flowers are open, dab the pollen gently with a soft brush and rub it onto the surrounding flower. Peach leaf curl is a nasty fungal disease, so if you can find a dwarf variety that claims resistance to this disease, buy it.

    Fig Trees

    Jose Carlos Barbosa / EyeEm/getty

    A sprawling, fan-trained fig tree in a pot is a majestic sight, and the hand-shaped leaves release a “figgy” scent if you brush past them, particularly on hot days. And then there are the incredibly succulent fruits, swelling through the summer until they all but burst open to reveal their sweet, dark flesh.

    Related Story

    Figs are an ideal choice for growing in pots because they prefer to have their roots confined, and they’re easy to train into fan shapes by tying branches against a warm wall.

    To ensure a crop where your climate is cool, protect the baby fruits over winter by tying sleeves of plastic bubble wrap loosely around them, making sure to leave them open-ended so that air can still circulate. Any fruits that are larger than pea size by fall should be removed, and pinch out the growing shoots of the tree in early summer so that only five leaves remain per shoot.

    Brown Turkey is a reliable variety with delicious, purple-fleshed fruits. Other good ones to try are Panachee and Black Mission. Plant in soilless potting mix or soil-based mix in a pot no smaller than 18 inches in diameter. Place in a sunny, sheltered spot, keep well watered, and feed with liquid seaweed every two weeks throughout the growing season.

    Calamondin Orange Trees

    David Q. Cavagnaro/getty

    Calamondin orange is perhaps the best choice for beginner gardeners. These glossy trees constantly produce intensely scented flowers, which develop into small, round fruits that are too sour to eat raw but make delicious, tangy marmalade.

    They can also be cut into segments and added to cool drinks. The biggest benefit of Calamondin oranges (X Citrofortunella microcarpa), though, is that this is the only citrus that can be overwintered indoors. It can even be grown all year inside.

    Pear Tree Care: Growing And Planting Pears In The Home Garden

    Growing pear trees can be a rewarding experience for the home gardener, but before you begin, there are a few things you need to know about how to plant. Read on to learn what those are.

    Planting Pears in the Home Garden

    Prior to planting pears in the home garden, pear tree size should be considered first. A full size tree can grow to 40 feet. Depending on the size of your lot, you may want to consider a dwarf or semi-dwarf variety. While Bartlett is probably the most common home grown pear, there are several varieties available. Check with a trusted nursery in your area to discover which variety grows best.

    While growing pear trees from seed is possible, you’ll get faster crop results by buying a young tree. When planting pears, a smaller well formed tree will give you better results that a tall spindly one.

    How to Plant a Pear Tree

    Now that you’ve chosen your tree, the next step is planting. Pears require full sun. Be sure to choose a spot that will ensure at least six to eight hours of sun, not only for your sapling but for your full grown pear. Tree care will be easier if you plan ahead.

    Dig your hole wide and deep, mixing mix plenty of compost into the soil. Remove the tree from its container, including the burlap, and set it in the hole to the same depth it was in its container. Gently spread the roots and refill the hole with the amended soil. Water well and continue to water regularly — once or twice a week — until the roots are well established.

    Knowing how to plant a pear tree isn’t quite enough. An important part of pear tree care is pruning, and the first pruning should occur as soon as your tree is planted. Leave a central leader and choose three to five branches with outward rather than upward growth and prune out the rest. Trim off the ends of the remaining branches to encourage growth. There are many books and articles written about pruning, but for the home gardener, pruning care of pear trees can be limited to removing crossed branches and fast sprouting upward growth.

    Your pear tree will bear fruit in three to five years.

    Tips for Growing Pear Trees

    Compared to other fruits, care of pear trees is simple and straightforward. They don’t suffer from as many diseases or insect problems, thus are easier on the grower. Care of pear trees begins right after planting. Pears should be staked with a sturdy post driven into the ground to help the tree grow straight and withstand wind damage. Mulch at a depth of 2-3 inches in a three foot circle around your tree to prevent weed competition for nutrients and water.

    Unless your soil is extremely poor, fertilizing once a year should be enough for your pear tree. Care, in fact, must be taken to avoid over fertilization which produces a lovely tree, but no fruit. For the home garden with only one or two trees, fruit tree fertilizer spikes are perfect for the job. They’re easy to use and provide a slow release of fertilizer that will be enough for the year.

    Some gardeners will insist that insecticides and dormant oil spray just before buds blossom are essential to the proper care of pears trees. I’m not one of them, though I’m not necessarily against their use. For growing pear trees, however, I’d wait and see if they were necessary before instituting their use. As stated earlier, pears have fewer insect problems than other fruits. One of the reasons for this is their flower nectar, which isn’t as attractive to insects as other fruits; and as bees are the main pollinators of your pear tree, care should be taken not to drive them away or, worse, kill them.

    If your first crop, which is usually small and often inedible, is badly damaged, then you’ll have plenty of time to re-evaluate before the next season. Why work harder or spend more money than you have to? See what nature has to offer first.

    Remember, folks have been growing pear trees in their backyard gardens for a long, long time. Grandma loved them for their delicious fruit and Grandpa loved them because, once established, they were very little work!

    7 Popular Dwarf or Miniature Fruit Trees For A Limited Space


    Trees can be distinguished on the basis of several factors like their height, support and rootstock. Both of the dwarf fruit trees and the miniature fruit trees are relatively smaller in size but they have different rootstocks’ (stump or part of roots that is used for grafting of cutting or bud of another plant) in order to keep up with their significant sizes;also varying with the height and need of support. A dwarf fruit tree could be 8-10 feet however a miniature tree remains between 6-8 feet keeping it smaller.

    You may also like to see fast growing fruit trees and fruit bearing trees.

    Dwarf fruit trees that are commonly available include nectarine, olive, pear, peach, apricot, apple, cherry, fig, citrus and quince.

    Four Methods to Reduce Fruit Tree Size

    The dwarf fruit trees usually on the smaller trees produce regular sized fruits but while buying such trees the end use is also considered. Potted fruit trees on the other hand in cold regions require picking a tree enduring to the zones than the current one.

    1. Dwarfing rootstocks
    2. Genetic Dwarf Fruit Trees
    3. Branch pruning use in the pots
    4. Control of Pruning in order to Produce Miniature Fruit Trees

    7 Popular Dwarf or Miniature Fruit Trees

    A list of famous dwarf Fruit Trees to grow in a limited space is as follows:

    1- Dwarf Apple Tree

    Dwarf apples tree is a sort of resilient and tough tree type that can bare freezing temperature of 45 degrees or less. Such trees grow in assorted conditions at small spaces and can take around three years for this. Apples thrive best in drier soil and a drier climate could make it even precious. Proper care is a compulsion in order to get quality fruit so if there is a drenched climate than apple trees want a constant drainage. Small fruit trees can estimate a less production of apples like an apple tree of about 3-4 foot may give 45 apples in variety. Popular varieties are Fuji and red delicious and the common rootstocks are Malling or the Cornell-Geneva, M27 and M9 are helpful in producing smallest ones. Pots are helpful in dwarfing the plants; pot size should be at least 16-18 inches or more.

    2- Dwarf Cherry Tree

    Cherry trees can grow in the pots and produce quality fruit if care is done properly. These trees are unable to give fruit if 2 years old branches are not there; however it is also important to note that all the varieties cannot thrive in pots. Such trees need below 45 degrees F and preferable to be grown in sandy loam mixture of soil. Dwarf sweet cherry trees than the large ones can give about 10-15 quarts each year. Well-drained soil with sunlight could be the considerable sources for the fruit production. These should be spaced on dwarfed rootstocks about 5-10 feet apart. The pot size should be big for such trees like across 18 inches. The common rootstocks for cherries could be Colt or Gisela 5.

    3- Dwarf Pear Tree

    Another kind of dwarf fruit tree is pear dwarf tree, pears could be considered as the largest of such varieties pruning in early spring or winter. Slightly rich acidic soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5 with sunlight is favorable for this fruit tree. Such trees are spaced about 8 feet apart and semi-dwarf at 13feet apart. Pear fruit trees are winter favorable trees having temperature about -25 degrees F. Container should be deep and minimum of 24inches. Common rootstocks for dwarf pear trees include EMH, Quince A and Quince C.

    4- Dwarf Apricot Tree

    The dwarf varieties of this fruit can be produced with the help of containers. Early spring is the season for apricots to bloom; trees are strong enough to cope with winter temperature about 20 degrees F. These trees can be planted any time except when it is extreme hot. They need much warmth during the summer, however 2-3 years old is good to be bought at buying time. Several colors of such trees could be seen in the yard like white in the blossoms, bronze foliage and yellow in the fall. It is one of the stone fruit tree like peach, cherry and nectarine. Pears must be spaced 20 feet apart in general and is usually 5-10 feet in height. Common rootstocks include Citation, Lovell, St.Julien and pot size could be 10-15 inches.

    5- Dwarf Orange Tree

    Planting fruit tree like this comes in the citrus category like lemons, mandarins. It can preferably be grown in wide pots rather than deep pots as it has a shallow root system; a dwarf orange tree is a potted fruit tree to harvest; preferring indoor planting conditions. However, sun rooms make it healthy for the tree. These trees cannot be more than 3-4 feet tall while other varieties can be of 8-12 feet, self-pollinating with rich soil. Preferable temperature is 65-45 degrees F at day and 50-55 degrees F at night. One common rootstock could be Trifoliate. The pots allowing free drainage with about 6-9 inches diameter is suitable for these trees.

    6- Dwarf Avocado Tree

    Avocado dwarf fruit tree is an ideal one as it bears fruit throughout the year, not able to deal with temperature below freezing. If sunshine is proper then it can take below 30 degrees F indoor, varying to harvest in summer or winter depending upon tree type. These growing fruit trees could be from 10-12 feet tall producing fruits in 1-3 years. Avocado trees demands sandy loam, able to withstand alkaline soil too. These trees can be about 3-4 feet tall and enjoys full sun, temperature to deal with cold is 28 degrees F. Large pots would produce quality ones of about 20+ gallon.

    7- Dwarf Plum Tree

    This dwarf plum fruit tree is grafted not affecting the fruit size. A container of about 12 inches in diameter is appropriate with protection from frost. These trees need either less or no pruning and spacing should be about 15-20 feet apart. If pruning is required then only March and September are favorable. Sunlight is good for production along with well drained soil. This tree starts production by 3 year; 2m in height and width and could also be used for jams. The common rootstocks include Pixy or St Julien A .The soil conditions should be loamy and best temperature for storing is about 31-32 degrees F.

    Pears can be divided into two simple categories: European and Asian. The former is what we typically think of: a smooth-skinned fruit with gentle bumps and curves in that typical bottom-heavy shape. Asian pears are uniform in color (yellowish-tan) and shaped more like apples, with a completely different texture and taste. Asian pears do not change color after being harvested, whereas some European ones do.

    While many of the pears presented in this guide can be found in your local supermarket, gourmet shop, or farmers’ market, you can also order harder-to-locate varieties from online companies such as Harry & David and To grow your own pear trees, visit your local garden nursery or try an online nursery that specializes in fruit trees, such as Adams County Nursery and Van Well Nursery.

    1. Forelle

    Characteristics: This pear is easy to identify due to its small size, an ovalish shape, smooth skin, and striking yellowish-green freckled skin, which turns a beautiful red as it ripens. Sweet and delicate, Forelles are an old European variety. Because of their sweetness and size, Forelles are a good fruit choice for young children’s snacks.

    2. Bosc Pears

    Alternate Name: Kaiser Pears
    Characteristics: The Bosc pear stands a head taller than other pears with its elongated slender neck. Its brown skin has a relatively rough texture and can have hints of yellow or green. The pear’s white flesh is sweet, crisp, and firm to the touch. If a recipe calls for poaching, Bosc pears are a good choice since they will keep their shape and not turn to mush. They’re also good for eating raw and baking.

    3. Bartlett

    Alternate Names: Williams pear, Williams’ Bon Chrétien pear
    Characteristics: Pictured is a fully-ripened yellow Bartlett; red Bartletts are also common throughout the U.S. Other than a difference in color, the two varieties share many qualities: a delicate thin skin, a sweet taste, and a bite that’s juicy and soft. The Bartlett is an old pear variety, first developed in the late 1700s in the United States. Bartletts used to make up most of America’s pear production (they have since given way to Anjou and Boscs), and they are still the most popular variety in the country. Most canned and processed pears (purées, juices) are made from Bartletts. Use the Bartlett when baking.

    4. Taylor’s Gold

    Alternate Names: Gold Pear, Taylor’s Golden
    Characteristics: Related to the Comice pear, this large New Zealand pear is almost round and has a golden-brown skin. Its sweet juicy flesh is so smooth that it almost melts in your mouth. This is a good pear for making jams, jellies, and sauces.

    5. Anjous

    Alternate Names: Anjou, d’Anjou, Beurre d’Anjou
    Characteristics: Of the two types of Anjou pears, the green is easier to find, although red Anjous are gaining ground. Short, squat, and very plump, these pears look as if they almost have no neck—giving them an egglike appearance. Both varieties have a smooth skin with flesh that’s juicy and firm. Green Anjous stay green, even when fully ripened. These are best eaten raw.

    6. Asian

    Alternate Names: nashi pear, Japanese pear, Korean pear, Taiwan Pear, sand pear, apple pear.
    Characteristics: This apple-shaped pear is unusual in many regards. First, it has a very unpearlike shape. Second, the skin’s texture is a little gritty and not as soft as that of other pears. Third, the flesh isn’t especially juicy (relatively speaking) and has a crispness that borders on crunchy. Fourth, it lacks a typical “pear” flavor. And finally, unlike many fruits, the Asian pear is ripe when it’s firm, not when it becomes more pliable to the touch. Take advantage of the Asian pear’s characteristics by eating it raw and in salads and slaws.

    7. Comice

    Alternate Names: Doyenne du Comice, Christmas pear
    Characteristics: Pictured here is a red Comice, a variety of Comice pears that is still relatively new on the market (first found in the orchard in the 1970s). Like the Anjou, the Comice is also available in green. Both red and green Comice pears have skin that breaks very easily, and they are very sweet, creamy textured, and juicy. It’s popular in holiday gift fruit baskets, so it has become known as the “Christmas pear.” These pears aren’t ideal for poaching because of their relatively delicate nature and juiciness, but they’re great for baking and eating with cheese. Highly prized by the French, enjoy this pear with a good French Brie or another soft creamy fromage.

    Learn much more about pears at Epicurious

    More from Epicurious

    The Ultimate Guide to Cooking With Pears

    Indulgent, Delicious Breakfasts

    Delicious Lunch Box Recipes for Kids

    Taste Test: 3 Addictive Peanut Butters

    Pear blossoms have a short season and the small amount of nectar produced is not attractive to bees. Twice as many bees should be available to pears than for other fruits. Move bees into the pear orchard when the trees are in one-third bloom.

    Although Anjou and Bartlett are partially self-fruitful, they should be cross-pollinated to produce heavy and regular crops. Bartlett, Comice and Hardy may set large crops of parthenocarpic fruit. European and Asian pears will cross-pollinate if blooming at the same time.

    European Pears

    Pear Fruiting Variety

    Compatible Pollinizer

    Anjou Bartlett, Bosc, Comice, Anjou*, Seckel
    Bartlett Anjou, Bosc, Comice
    Bosc Anjou, Bartlett, Comice, Seckel
    Comice Anjou, Bartlett, Bosc, Seckel
    Seckel Bosc, Comice, Bartlett
    Asian Pears

    Asian Pear Fruiting Variety

    Chojuro Shinseike, Bartlett
    Nijisseiki (20th Century) Chojuro, Shinseike, Bartlett
    Hosui Partially self-fruitful; any other pear in same bloom time OK.
    Shinseike Chojuro


    • Orange Pippin Fruit Trees – website has a fruit tree pollination compatibility checker tool and several other useful online tools (Accessed: 1/19/17).
    • Raintree Nursery – website has nice European pear compatibility chart (Accessed: 1/19/17).

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