The gladiola flowers have been putting on quite a show this year. Pink, white, red, greenish-yellow, and purple gladiolus have graced my garden. I really like gladiolas but whenever there is a heavy rain or higher-than-usual winds, the glads dip over or break off.

Pink gladiolus Purple gladiolus Green-yellow gladiolus White gladiolus

How to Keep Your Gladiolus From Falling Over

Option 1: Plant your Gladiolus bulbs in a grouping, against a garden structure

If you have a lot of gladiolus bulbs, plant them together rather tightly up against a structure like a fence, trellis, or even an art piece in your garden that can act as a support. When you plant them in a cluster, you can tie them all off to the same structure, making it less time consumptive to stake them with a support.

If you plant your bulbs in a more clustered formation (2 to 3 inches apart rather than the recommended spacing), your plants will require more nutrients and water to thrive than when planted with normal spacing. You may need to fertilize and water them slightly more often to keep them healthy.

How to tie up your flowers

If you use fishing line to tie up your gladiola flowers, it won’t be visible to most passersby. You can also use garden twine (which is often green or brown) or jute. We don’t use a fluorescent or other brightly colored string or twine because it will really stick out and draw attention away from your garden.

Tie up the gladiola flowers closer to the top of the buds, probably right in the middle of the flower buds. My Gladiolus always seem to break right at the base of the buds. The top just gets too heavy for the stem to support it. The benefit of grouping all of your Gladiolus bulbs together and then having a back support to tie them to is that the group of flowers will help support one another, reducing the need for multiple tie-ups.

Flower Stem Stakes

Option 2: Get single flower supports or stakes for your Gladiolus flowers

My Gladiolus bulbs are scattered throughout two of my flowerbeds, making using a single support system for multiple flowers impossible. Instead, I have individual stem supports (flower stakes) that I move around my garden as each bud gets ready to bloom. Luckily, the flowers don’t all open at the same time, so I can spread out the use of my 6 flower stakes in the garden.

My single stem supports are about 48” inches tall with three circular sections that I thread the plant through for extra support. They are made of a green polyethylene-coated steel. Their coloration helps them to blend in to my garden, making them nearly invisible. I purchased my stem supports from Gardener’s Supply in 2012 and I am still using the original stakes.

These Gladiolus stakes have a little flexibility in them, so pushing them deep into the soil is a must. This gives them better stability. In a couple of cases, the flowers grew too tall for the supports, but most of the time, the 48″ height of the supports is adequate.

Purchase Single Stem Supports

Store Bought Flower Stakes vs. Home-Made Flower Stakes

The benefit of these polyethylene-coated steel stakes versus homemade wooden or metal ones is that they are very thin, making pushing them into the soil very easy and giving me plenty of space to make sure I don’t strike the bulb or other adjacent plants.

Stem supports

My homemade stakes are usually made of rebar or scrap pieces of wood. These are always much thicker than the purchased stem supports and require careful placement and installation in my garden. They usually have to be pushed into the ground with a hammer as well.

Since my gladiola flowers aren’t planted near one another, I have to move each support from one plant that has completed blooming to the next one that is budding. Moving my steel flower supports is very simple as they are easy to pull up and then push back into the soil. A thicker support made of rebar or wood would require a little more effort.

Another benefit of my stem supports from Gardener’s Supply is that I can take them out and store them for use the following year. Because they are coated in polyethylene, they last a long time and due to their size, they don’t take up a lot of storage space.

Purchase Adjustable Z-Ring Stem Supports

A little planning goes a long way with Gladiolus flowers

Don’t give up on planting and enjoying Gladiolus flowers just because they have a tendency to break or bend. Plan your garden so that you can stake the stems or group them all together for better support. You’ll be so glad you did when the blooming starts!

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  • Division: Although you don’t need to replant perennials every year, as you would with annuals, eventually they will need to be dug up and divided. Then the divisions will need to be replanted. Some plants need dividing every couple of years and some, like peonies, virtually never need division unless you want to make more plants.
  • Pest Patrol: Monitoring for pests and diseases is still very important with perennials. It’s bad enough to lose an entire season of annuals to a disease, but to lose a bed of perennials you’ve had for a decade is heartbreaking. And since perennials are usually planted in large clusters, it is very easy for a disease or feeding insect to affect the whole clump in a short time. You really need to check on your perennial plants regularly throughout the growing season.
  • Deadheading: Many perennials repeat bloom if you continually deadhead the spent blooms. This is a chore they share with some annuals. Even perennials that don’t repeat bloom, such as hosta and astilbe, benefit from deadheading their flower stems so that the energy of the plant can go back into the roots and leaves, rather than into setting seed. Of course, if you want the seed, you can certainly allow the seed pods to form.
  • Seasonal Clean-up: Since herbaceous perennials die back to the ground each winter, you will need to prune and remove the old foliage, before the new growth begins. Some plants prefer to be cut back in the fall and a handful prefers being pruned in the spring. Most are not terribly fussy about timing, so you can do it whenever you have the opportunity.

(http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pfingstrose.JPG)

Overview

Perennial flowers are those that continue to grow year after year after remaining dormant throughout the winter. Annuals typically are planted in the spring and summer months, bloom for the season, and then die. Gardeners often supplant perennial gardens with lively, colorful annuals. Annuals are also commonly used as borders and in containers and flower boxes to brighten up the landscape.

Benefits

Annuals typically are less expensive than perennial flowers. They do however provide a lush display of color from late spring when they’re planted through the entire summer season. Perennials on the other hand require less care when they’ve been planted in appropriate spots. Once open, perennial blooms last an average of four to six weeks. After about four years, perennials can be divided to make more flowers.

Disadvantages

Annual flowers require more work and attention. Each year, the soil must be reworked. Planting can be time-consuming. You have to purchase new annuals each year to fill your garden’s bare spots and add the vivid colors. Perennials are usually more expensive, according to the Tulsa Master Gardeners, and often don’t bloom for the first couple seasons after they’ve been planted. The short blooming season of perennials often leaves gardens lacking in color, especially if flowers are cut for indoor displays or gifts.

Planting

Many perennials such as hostas and hydrangeas can be planted in the fall and may produce flowers in their first season. Perennials and annuals alike should be planted after the final frost, after mid-April in most areas. Gardeners in cooler climates often wait until after Mother’s Day to protect flowers from last-minute frosts. Summer is the ideal time to plant annuals such as zinnias, petunias and periwinkle that prefer warmer soil.

Gifts

Traditionally, potted flowering plants given as gifts are perennials that can be replanted in the fall or early spring and grow in their pots until you are ready to transfer them to the garden. Annuals can serve as gifts, but only for those recipients who plan to plant the flowers immediately or just enjoy them in their pots through the summer. Popular potted flowers at ProFlowers include hydrangeas, tulips, hyacinths and lilies.

10 Easy-Care Perennials Every Garden Should Have

By Doug Jimerson
With literally hundreds of perennial flowers to choose from, a trip to the garden center can be bewildering. Our advice? Start with the classics: beautiful, reliable, and easy-care perennials. Here are 10 that should appear in every garden.
1. Black-Eyed Susan
Commonly called Black-eyed Susan, rudbeckia is a joy to grow. It develops wave after wave of cheerful daisy-like blooms from early summer to fall. The flowers sport yellow or orange petals that surround a darker center. Most varieties grow around two feet tall and, like annual flowers, many will bloom the first year from seed. Denver Daisy and Indian Summer are two annual forms that often come back year after year. Because rudbeckias are native to the central and eastern parts of the United States, they are also naturally drought and insect resistant. Some favorite classic perennial varieties include Goldsturm (in photo), Cherokee Sunset, Prairie Sun, and fulgida.
Growing Tip: Rudbeckia doesn’t always last more than a few years in one spot, but it does have a tendency to self-sow in other locations. Watch for seedlings to sprout and transplant them where you need color the most.
2. Salvia
Few perennials are as versatile as salvia, also called perennial sage. This big family of gorgeous bloomers includes varieties that are tough enough to take the cold of Minnesota and others that thrive in the heat and humidity of Florida. Plus, many salvia varieties develop deep blue flowers, a color that’s often hard to come by in the flower border (and also a coveted hue!). Some classic varieties that prefer a cooler climate include May Night (in photo), Carradona, and New Dimension. For warmer climates (zones 7 and above) choose Wild Thing, Hot Lips, or Black and Blue.
Growing Tip: As soon as your salvia stops blooming shear back plants by about one third their height. This promotes a second season of flowers later in the summer.
3. Coreopsis
Do you want a burst of sunshine in your garden? Make room for coreopsis! Its bright sunny-yellow or golden flowers are hard to miss even on a dreary day. Most coreopsis grow about 18 inches tall and produce single or double flowers. On some varieties the foliage is fine and delicate, making the flowers look like they are dancing on a lacy cushion. Like rudbeckia, coreopsis is a native prairie plant so it can take a little neglect when it comes to water and fertilizer. Some top coreopsis picks include dwarf-form Nana (in photo), pale yellow Moonbeam, award-winning double-flowering Early Sunrise, and pink-flowering Limerock Dream.
Growing Tip: Plant coreopsis near the front of your border so you can easily remove the fading flowers. This will extend the bloom time through the summer.
4. Sedum
Sedums are the workhorses of the perennial border. Almost impervious to heat, drought, and disease, sedums get bigger and better each year. This large perennial family includes ground-hugging varieties such as Angelina as well as taller types such as the classic three-foot-tall Autumn Joy. Most sedums bloom in late summer and fall, but they all offer handsome, fleshy foliage that looks great all season long. One of the first perennial flowers to pop up in the spring, sedums are also one of the last ones to succumb to fall’s cold temperatures. Their nectar-rich blooms are also a favorite with butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. Other great sedum choices include the pretty ground covers Tricolor and Kamtchaticum variegatum (in photo) Taller must-have sedums include Vera Jameson, Voodoo, and Neon.
Growing Tip: Because sedums spread, it’s a good idea to divide them every few years to keep them in top form. Dig the plants and use a sharp spade to separate them into smaller pieces you can share with friends.
See how to divide perennials!
5. Purple Coneflower
A decade ago, you didn’t have a lot of options when it came to choosing an coneflower (Echinacea) for your garden. Most varieties available looked a lot like the original native form, which has single, pink petals surrounding a dark center. But recently plant hybridizers have had a field day with this resilient perennial flower, creating new flower forms almost every year. Now, you can choose from double- and triple-flowering varieties and colors that include white, raspberry, orange, and yellow. Coneflowers generally grow 3 feet tall and bloom from early summer until fall. They’re a favorite with butterflies and make excellent cut flowers for indoor bouquets. Some favorite varieties include dwarf Kim’s Knee High, boldly colored Salsa Red, double-flowering Bubblegum, or surprising Sombrero Sandy Yellow.
Growing Tip: Single-flowering forms often live longer than the double or triple types. Before you buy, check the plant’s zone of hardiness to see if a particular variety will survive the winter in your garden.
6. Peony
Talk about dependable! Peonies last for years with very little help from you. In fact, there are many cases where peonies are still growing and blooming where they were planted 50 years earlier. Peonies form pretty, 3-foot tall mounds of foliage that burst into bloom in mid-spring. The plants are available in single-, double-, or semi-double forms, and flower in a wide range of colors and bi-colors. Peony blooms are also highly fragrant and make extraordinary spring bouquets for weddings or graduations. All these dependable plants require is a sunny garden spot that’s well drained—they won’t prosper in heavy, mucky soil. Choice varieties include single-flowering Krinkled White, gorgeous Coral Supreme, classic double pink Sarah Bernhardt and pink-and-cream Annamieke (in photo).
Growing Tip: Peonies require a period of cold and darkness to bloom well. That’s why they grow best from zones 4-8 where they bloom from May to June.
7. Bearded Iris
Bearded iris are one of the most sumptuous flowers in the spring garden. These spectacular perennial flowers are a snap to grow, and are prized for their eye-popping, crown-like flowers that are held aloft on tall graceful stems. They come in an almost unlimited selection of colors and bi-colors, and some varieties even put on a second show of bloom in fall. When not in bloom, bearded iris plants feature striking, sword-like foliage that stands up straight throughout the growing season. Like peonies, bearded iris requires a period of cold and darkness to bloom so are at their best in zones 3-9. Top picks include: Immortality, Again and Again, Goldkist (in photo), and Savannah Sunset.
Growing Tip: To keep your bearded iris in top form, dig and divide them every three to four years. If allow your iris to grow into one thick clump, flower production will slow.
8. Daylily
Talk about easy care! Once planted, daylilies require only a minimum of attention, yet they’ll reward you with armloads of gorgeous flowers every summer. All these reliable plants need is a sunny spot and protection from weedy intruders. Daylilies are early risers, pushing their pretty grass-like leaves up through the soil in early spring. When summer rolls around, plants develop graceful flower stems packed with buds that open into beautiful blooms. Daylilies get their name from the fact that each flower lasts for just one day. Not a worry because each plant produces a quantity of buds/blooms so there’s always color. In general, daylilies are classified as either standard or ever-blooming. As a rule, standard bloomers have bigger flowers and more colors to choose from. Ever bloomers have a more limited color palette and smaller blooms. For the biggest color show include both types in your garden. Choice varieties include ever bloomers such as Stella de Oro (in photo), Happy Returns, Buttered Popcorn, and Black-Eyed Susan. Standard bloomers include Chicago Apache, Ice Carnival, Double Passion, and Fire King. Daylilies are hardy from zones 3-9
Growing Tip: Although daylilies prefer full sun, they will survive in partial shade. Flowering will be a bit more limited, but they will provide some much-needed color in these locations.
9. Lily
Although there are many different varieties of lilies to choose from, the two most popular types are Asiatic or Oriental. Asiatic lilies generally grow two to three feet tall and produce clusters of upward-facing, jewel-like flowers at the top of each stem. Most Asiatic lilies bloom in red, orange, yellow, white, or bicolors. They’re extraordinarily hardy and thrive in zones 3-8. Asiatic lilies spread slowly in the garden, forming bigger clumps each year. Oriental lilies tower over their Asiatic counterparts, often growing six to seven feet tall. Their flowers are often pendulous and highly fragrant. Oriental lilies also spread, although not as quickly as Asiatic lilies. They are hardy from zones 4-8. Top Asiatic lilies include: Sensation, Sunny Borneo, Buzzer, Matrix, and Golden Joy (in photo). Some top Oriental lilies include: Starfighter, Love Story, Farolito, and Show Winner.
Growing Tip: Both types of lilies are best divided in the early fall. Dig the entire clump, separate the bulbs, and replant, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart.
10. Hosta
Having a shady backyard doesn’t mean you can’t have a colorful garden. Hostas thrive in the shade, and are available in an almost limitless selection of sizes, shapes, and colors. In fact, there are so many hosta options to choose from that you can create an entire garden with just this one species. Hostas prefer a rich, slightly moist soil, but are tough enough to endure less-than-ideal conditions. Their biggest challenges are deer and slugs, two creatures that find hosta foliage especially tasty. Hostas also develop gorgeous flower spikes in pink, lavender, or white. The flowers of some varieties are also fragrant. Some choice large hosta varieties (some can get 4 feet tall) include Sagae, Frances Williams, Sum and Substance, Francee, and Patriot. Medium and small varieties include: Fire & Ice, Paul’s Glory (in photo), Guacamole, June, and Blue Mouse Ears. Most are hardy from zones 3-9.
Growing Tip: If you see holes in the leaves of your hostas, you probably have slugs nearby. These creatures dine at night so you won’t see them destroying your plants during the day. To combat them, use an organic slug bait or place halved orange or grapefruit pieces around your plants. At night the slugs will be attracted to the fruit, which you can then remove, slugs and all.
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What Are Perennials?

Wondering if perennials are right for you? Dig into a perennial definition to learn more about these garden favorites. Most gardeners are familiar with annuals, courtesy of the colorful flats of marigolds, petunias and pansies at garden centers and box stores. Annuals create a showy display that’s tough to miss. Perennials, on the other hand, are often sold as green plants or a few stems in a large pot. Once you define perennials and understand their nature, you might find you’re eager to learn more about them.
In the purest sense, the definition of perennials comes down to understanding a plant’s life cycle. Plants are genetically wired to reproduce—to set seed. This is why one dandelion flower turns into a puffball with hundreds of seeds.
Annuals accomplish their reproduction, or life cycle, in one growing season. Consider zinnia, an annual. Plant zinnia seed in late spring, and the seed sprouts and produces a plant. The plant flowers and, if frost doesn’t arrive too early, the flowers die—filled with viable seeds. The plant dies with frost. When all of this takes place in one growing season, that plant is an annual.
The definition of perennial embraces plant reproduction along with form. Try this for a working perennial definition: a plant that lives for more than two years, producing seed each year. Perennials usually die back to the ground with frost, but resprout from roots or stems in spring. Where annuals do their thing in one growing season, perennials are the original come-back kids, returning to grace the garden with beauty year after year.
Most perennials are non-woody plants, meaning they don’t have woody stems like a shrub or rose. Some perennials, however, can develop woody stems over the course of a growing season. Russian sage plants and most types of lavender develop woody stems during a growing season. In cold regions with freezing winters, these stems die back over winter. In spring, these perennials must be pruned to a shorter height of 6 to 12 inches. After mild winters, buds on the woody stem remains sprout; after hard winters, new growth emerges from the plant’s roots.
Many garden catalogs and books tout perennials as forever plants. By comparing annuals and perennials, they show that annuals must be planted every year, while perennials come back new each spring. The reality is that most perennials live an average of seven years. Some perennials, like stokes aster and blackberry lily, are short-lived, lasting only a few years. Other perennials, like peony and hosta plants, can survive many years in the garden.
Unlike annuals, which flower non-stop until frost, many perennials have a specific bloom time. Flowers appears during this window and then stop. The rest of the growing season, a perennial’s leaves create food that’s shuttled to plant roots where it’s stored as reserves to fuel next year’s growth cycle. When designing a garden with perennial plants, part of the fun is mixing and matching perennials that flower at different times to create a steady supply of blooms.

A List of Perennial Flowers For Your Garden.

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Perfectly Planned Perennial Garden With Annuals Tucked In Between.

The following list of perennial flowers will help you choose just which permanent plants you want to invite into your garden to stay. When planning your perennial garden, keep in mind the fact that some of these plants could be around for many years to come. These are the plants which will live from three to thirty years or more, depending on how happy they are.

So even though you don’t need a pencil and paper to map out your garden, it’s a good idea to give it some thought before you go out and buy what could be a quite expensive plant. You need to know how to care for it so that your investment is not wasted – and where to put it.

If you are just starting out and have a large, bare plot to cover, it can be quite overwhelming, but imagine a garden without any perennials … It’s worth it. Of course the main things to plant first are the Trees (if you want some), then the tall Woody Perennials such as Roses, Rhododendrons and Hydrangeas, and then the smaller Herbaceous Perennials. Herbaceous Perennials are the ones that are easiest to deal with and move around if you get them wrong eg. Chrysanthemums. The Herbaceous Perennials are the ones which die back each year to ground level, and then bloom again in the spring. The best examples of these would have to be the Bulbs.

After you know what is going where, it’s time to think of the Annuals which can be tucked in between the Perennials. When planning your garden, keep in mind the fact that Herbaceous Perennials fit well with evergreen shrubs and small trees and bushes. See more information on this site: Perennial Flowers.

The following List of Perennial Flowers contains flowers which are common and easy to grow. In some cold areas they are only grown as Annuals. The information will be on the tag. I hope the images at the top of each page will give you some ideas about your perennial flower garden design. Check back here often as I add what I find because this list is by no means complete!

Perennial Flowers Starting With A.

Achillea millefolium. (Yarrow family).

African Daisy. (Osteospermum)

Agapanthus. (Star of Bethlehem).

Ageratum houstonianum. (Floss Flower).

Allium bisceptrum. (Twincrest Onion).

Alstromeria. (Peruvian Day Lily).

Amaranthus. (Prince’s Feather).

Anchusa. (Dropmore Flower, Italian Bugloss).

Anemone. (Windflower).

Aster. (Daisy Family).

Astilbe Flower. (False Spirea).

Aurinia saxatillis. (Basket of Gold, Alyssum saxatilllis).

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Top 20 List of Perennial Flowers for Your NJ Garden

Planting perennials in your New Jersey garden can fill your landscape with beautiful color and interesting texture throughout the year.

Unlike annuals that must be replanted every year, perennial flowers are hardy bloomers that come back year after year, often with minimal care and maintenance.

The lifespan of perennial flowers range from three to 15 years, although some varieties like peonies can bloom for a lifetime.

Choosing the Right Perennials Flowers

There’s a wide variety of perennial flowers that grow well in Bergen County, located in USDA Hardiness Zone 6.

Perennial flowers give your landscape a beautiful look with their shape, colors, and textures. Some of these plants grow in mounted clusters while others are often used as groundcovers. Perennials can be also be classified as either sun-loving varieties or shade-loving varieties.

Take a look at a list of perennial flowers that will thrive in your NJ garden.

1. Anemone

Anemones are delicate, colorful flowers with bright green stems that are wonderful in cut flower arrangements, adding a fragrant scent for even more appeal. Anemones are sometimes referred to as windflowers because a field of anemones seems to blow freely in the wind, creating a type of poetic dance. While the flowers of anemones can flatten, they most often produced cupped flowers in pink, purple, rose or white with deeply lobed foliage.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Spread: 1 to 3 feet

Blooms: spring, summer and fall

2. Aster

Asters are easy to grow and drought-tolerant and are always at the top of the list of perennial flowers for gardens in the New Jersey area. Asters provide striking color in any landscape and because of their height can offer variation in a garden. Some of them grow from 6 to 8 feet tall and bloom with beautiful hues of pink, white, purple and lavender.

Light: full sun

Height: 1 to 8 feet

Spread: 1 to 4 feet

Blooms: spring and fall

3. Astilbe

Astilbe is one of the most graceful perennials with a feathery texture and soft colors in white, red, blue and pink. Often used in Northern New Jersey gardens, Astilbe can tolerate direct sunlight, as long as there are adequate water and rich moist soil. It’s best to grow in shady areas because as summer heat builds, the leaves can easily scorch in the sun.

Light: shade, partial sun

Height: 5 inches to 8 feet

Spread: 18 to 30 inches

Blooms: spring and summer

4. Basket-of-Gold

Basket-of-gold loves to grow in unexpected places mainly at the edge of patio borders, cracks between paving stones, rocky garden areas and the edge of gravel pathways.

This perennial is one of the topchoices for people looking to plant informal perennial flowers in their New Jersey outdoor spaces.

As the name suggests, Basket-of-gold adds a lot of color to your landscape with its vibrant gold flowers. Light: full sun

Height: 6 inches to 3 feet

Spread: 12 to 18 inches

Bloom: spring

5. Bee Balm

Bee balm is one of the most effortless, beautiful perennial flowers that also has an added bonus of attracting bees and butterflies to your garden area. It is a native plant to New Jersey with lovely spider-like flowers in jewel tones of pink, red, purple and white. These bright, eye-catching flowers produce fragrant scents and grow in clumps of dark foliage

Light: sun, partial sun

Height: 1 to 8 feet

Spread: up to 2 feet

Blooms: summer and fall

6. Blanket Flower

Blanket flowers produce both single and double daisy-like blossoms in colors ranging from orange to bright yellow. These are very well suited for a hot, sunny garden. Of particular importance in the New Jersey area, these flowers thrive in gardens because they are deer resistant and tolerate light frost.

Light: full sun

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Spread: 6 inches to 2 feet

Blooms: summer and fall

7. Butterfly Weed

Butterfly weed is a plant, which requires minimal care and maintenance and is also native to New Jersey. Brightly colored flowers in white, orange, red and pink attract many types of butterflies and birds.

Butterfly weed is fragrant, drought tolerate and deer resistant. It tops the list of 20 perennial flowers for your NJ garden.

Light: full sun

Height: 1 to 8 feet

Spread: 2 to 3 feet

Blooms: summer

8. Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums produce many different shaped blossoms. Some chrysanthemums look likedaisies while others produce blooms that areflat, fringed, rounded, quill or spoon-shaped. They are a must have for any type of garden. The flowers can be seen in shades of pink, red, white, green, blue and pink.

Chrysanthemums are great in garden areas and containers.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Spread: 1 to 3 feet

Blooms: summer and fall

9. Coral Bells

The diverse colors and interesting textures of coral bells, makes them a favorite on the list of perennial flowers for NJ gardens.

Coral bells produce spires of dainty, white, pink and green flowers and different colored foliage in silver, purple and burgundy. They grow in low clumps, so they work well as border plants and groundcovers.

Coral bells like rich, humusy soil that retains a lot of moisture.

Light: full sun, partial sun, shade

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Spread: 6 to 30 inches

Blooms: spring, summer and fall

10. Daylily

Daylilies are a very common perennial flower and are easy to grow and often seen growing wild in fields and ditches. There are over 50,000 types of hybrid daylilies that produce trumpet-shaped delicate flowers in shades of pink, orange, blue and red. July blooms sprout on tall stalks that make them a beautiful asset to many types of outdoor spaces.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 6 inches to 8 feet

Spread: 1 to 3 feet

Blooms: spring and summer

11. Delphinium

Delphiniums are one of the favorite choices of many gardeners. They produce beautiful blooms in shades of pink, purple, blue and white that tower over course, dark green foliage. They are eye-catching in both formal and informal garden areas.

Delphiniums need to be sheltered from the wind and should receive a good amount of moisture. They may re-bloom if you cut down the stalks after the flowers wilt.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 1 to 8 feet

Spread: 1 to 3 feet

Blooms: summer

12. Goldenrod

Goldenrod flowers actually do not produce a lot of pollen that aggravates allergies. While pollen does not blow in the wind, it does stick to the legs of insects, but the idea that it increases allergies is a myth. Goldenrod plants are easy to grow, with magnificent sprays of tiny yellow flowers that are a bountiful source of nectar for bees and butterflies. Check the variety of Goldenrod you plant to ensure it will not spread out of control.

Light: full sun, partial sun, shade

Height: 5 inches to 8 feet

Spread: 8 inches to 3 feet

Blooms: summer and fall

13. Hellebore

Hellebores produce saucer-shaped flowers in burgundy, pink, yellow and white. Flowers are often speckled, providing amazing texture and color. These plants are easy to grow and are low maintenance, which makes them a great choice for New Jersey woodland gardens.

Light: full sun, partial sun, shade

Height: 1 to 8 feet

Spread: 1 to 3 feet

Blooms: spring and winter

14. Hibiscus

Hibiscus flowers (also referred to as Rose Mallow) provide gorgeous vibrant colors to New Jersey gardens. Growing hibiscus is an easy way to add a tropical flair to your garden. These flowers need plenty of water, must have good drainage and do best in rich soil and lots of room to spread out.

Light: Full sun

Height: 3 to 20 feet

Spread: 3 to 5 feet

Blooms: summer and fall

15. Lupine

Lupine is also in the list of the top 20 perennial flowers because it creates gorgeous blooms in vivid shades of pink, blue and white. It produces large, pea-like flowers clustered in long spikes on sturdy stems.

The most popular type of Lupine on the list of perennials is Bicolor Russell hybrids.

Lupines prefer cooler temperatures with well-drained slightly acidic soil.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Spread: 1 to 2 feet

Blooms: summer

16. Painted Daisy

Painted daisies can be grown easily in any type of garden area. But they work especially well in rock gardens, woodland gardens, and areas around trees and shrubs. Painted daisy perennials are the perfect height for those hard to fill middle spots in the garden when early spring blooms are dying back.

Painted daisies require little maintenance when they’re planted in the right soil and location.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 6 inches to 3 feet

Spread: 8 to 18 inches

Blooms: summer and fall

17. Peony

Perhaps the best-loved flowers on the list of perennial flowers are peonies.

They produce sumptuous single and double blooms in glorious shades of white, yellow, pink and red and rich foliage is deep shades of green.

Peonies are hardy perennials that grow well in Bergen County weather with little care and maintenance. Peonies have been know to bloom year after year for 50 to 75 years.

Light: full sun, partial sun

Height: 1 to 8 feet

Spread: 2 to 4 feet

Blooms: spring

18. Poppy

If you want brilliant color in your NJ garden, plant poppies. Finer species including Iceland, Alpine, and Atlantic poppies have a special charm with flowers that come in an array of beautiful colors.

Oriental poppies are less refined, but they produce large, exploding flowers in brilliant shades of white, pink, orange, red and purple with black stamens.

Light: full sun

Height: 6 inches to 3 feet

Spread: 4 inches to 3 feet

Blooms: spring and summer

19. Sunflower

There’s no other flower on the list of perennial flowers quite like sunflowers.

They will provide height and brilliant color to any NJ garden. Sunflowers are imposingly tall with large, floppy flowers that get up to 4-inches in diameter.

Bright yellow flowers form loose clusters that thrive in sun and soil that’s less than perfect. Taller flowers may need support in the garden, but they make beautiful cut flowers.

Light: full sun

Height: 3 to 20 feet

Spread: 3 to 4 feet

Blooms: summer and fall

20. Violet

Who doesn’t love violets with soft, velvety petals marked with beautiful shades of yellow and purple?

Violets produce blooms in shades of white, pink, red, orange, blue and purple. You can plant them in borders, garden beds, wildlife gardens, rock gardens, containers and window boxes.

Violets grow well in Bergen County, even in cold New Jersey winters. To prolong blooms, deadhead faded blooms and cut back weak stems.

Light: full sun, partial sun, shade

Height: 5 inches to 12 inches

Spread: 6 inches, depending on variety

Blooms: spring, fall and winter

In addition to the list of perennials shown above, there are many other blooming varieties, as well as exotic grasses and varieties with year-round green foliage.

If you’re interested in planting a perennial NJ garden, contact the garden designers at Borst Landscape & Design.

We can help you plan a beautiful garden that will enhance the beauty of your Bergen County home.

Different types of plants

Understand how your plants grow
• Different types of plants
• Plant Growth
• The roots
• Flowering and Fruit
• The hardiness of plants
• Know everything about bamboos

All that is herb is not tree !

Herbaceous plants
Botanically, “herbs” designate all plants which do not form wood and which therefore have only soft tissue. Primroses, tomatoes, ferns are some examples, among many others. Of course, an herb according to its common meaning, i.e, plants in the grass family, (fescues, miscanthus, wheat, etc.) is an herbaceous plant. Likewise, botanically-speaking, banana trees, bambous, and palm trees are just herbs! Putting aside these particular plants, herbaceous plants rarely reach great heights compared to trees.

Furthermore, herbaceous plants can live for one or several years. If they live for only one season (like tomatoes or marigolds) they are called annuals. If they live for two years (like the common foxglove) they are biennials. And when they live for several years they are called perennials. There are perennials with short life spans (wallfowers, agastaches, perennial fennel, dusty millers…): they are perennials but in practice they must be replaced about every two or three years.

Trees
Fortunately, the situation here is less complicated than for the herbaceous plants ! A tree lives for very many years. For example, the bristlecone pine, Pinus aristata, is often considered the longest-living tree…and the slowest-growing !

Shrubs

This term refers to very numerous plants halfway between herbaceous plants and trees. Shrubs form wood : one must simply cut a trunk of lavender to make out the growth rings, as with oak or pine trees! But shrubs stay at shorter heights than those of trees. In general, those which surpass 6m are classified as trees, and other plants with wood are classified as shrubs. This distinction is completely arbitrary and doesn’t correspond to any reality whatsoever in nature. For example, certain shrubs form real trees (crape myrtle or Langerstroemia, reaches a height of 8m in exceptional conditions) while inversely, certain trees will remain in shrub condition if their situation is unfavourable.

To complicate everything, the name of certain plants includes the word “tree” while they are sometimes shrubs, or even herbaceous plants. The butterfly tree (buddleia) is not a real tree whereas the handkerchief tree (Davidia) forms an authentic tree !

Creepers or climbing plants
They form fine stems in relation to their length. A big clematis does not surpass a diameter of I cm, and an ancient bignonia reaches a 10 cm diameter. In nature creepers are plants that attach themselves to others to get light. There are some annual creepers.

Plants with bulbs
They have fleshy underground reserves, like the onion and the tulip. The shape of the reserve varies greatly botanically and accordingly we talk about corms, crown, rhizome or tuberous roots. It is not necessary to know the differences in detail. Simply know that in all these cases the plant stores reserves underground and to persist, it must build these reserves up again every year.

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